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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got some drag bars, fatty ones, on ebay. They have the holes for feeding the wires through. I'm on the fence about if I should just run the wires externally or internally.

My switches are hardwired, and I dont want to go all the way to my connectors under the seat for the wire feed. Is it a good idea to even consider cutting and putting splices, environmental splices that is, on the wires?

I was wondering about cutting the wires just prior to where they go into the gas tank, staggered, and feeding them through the bars and then do the splices.

I can take it, is it a stupid idea? Should I just run them externally if I don't want to do it the more difficult but correct way?
 

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Having just run the wires internally while doing a handlebar change on my Fatboy I can tell you that it's not so hard to do properly. The connectors in the harness are just under the front of the tank, so you don't have to remove it, just undo the mounting bolts, fuel line, and speedo and carefully slide it back a couple of inches. Once you've unplugged the connectors you can carefully dismantle them (after noting which colour goes where...they're numbered) and feed the wires thru your bars. In my opinion cutting and splicing the wires is a half assed way to go. The joins have the potential to create a problem later.
 

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1. Chubby drag bars do not look right with external wires.
2. Avoid slicing if you can. Generally spicing is done to add wire length when installing ape hangers.
3. Splicing done properly should not add any reliability issues. Staggared and properly heat shrinked.
4. If you can do the job without splicing, just by removing pins from connectors, do it. It does not take any longer than splicing the wires and is easier to change in the future.
5. If you do splice and use additional wire, maintain all color codes for the wires. Makes fixing any future problems easier.
To summarize, for drag bars I would run them internal and not splice the wires. You will be happier in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, thats what I was thinking. I do have another question however...I saw where I was advised I can just unsecure tank and slide it down to expose connectors. If the connector pins are like the one for the brake connector then it would be very difficult to push the pins out? I had a brake light issue and found the culprit was a loose wire on the connector. Resecuring it was a bugger.

I will slide the tank back and see what it looks like, thanks for the tips guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys, thats what I was thinking. I do have another question however...I saw where I was advised I can just unsecure tank and slide it down to expose connectors. If the connector pins are like the one for the brake connector then it would be very difficult to push the pins out? I had a brake light issue and found the culprit was a loose wire on the connector. Resecuring it was a bugger.

I will slide the tank back and see what it looks like, thanks for the tips guys.
 

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90 FXRS LOWRIDER
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gotta go internal, just did that myself this summer on mine. looks great compared to external wiring...yucky. part # 381-087 J & P cycles for 10.99. pin removal tool. pic below
sure wish i had this when i had done mine. i know them pins are a complete pain when trying to reuse or whatnot. go to radio shack and they will have new connectors for ya too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
dashooter said:
gotta go internal, just did that myself this summer on mine. looks great compared to external wiring...yucky. part # 381-087 J & P cycles for 10.99. pin removal tool. pic below
sure wish i had this when i had done mine. i know them pins are a complete pain when trying to reuse or whatnot. go to radio shack and they will have new connectors for ya too.
Not a premium member, cant see what you attached. I will go to JP and see what type of tool that is for that type of pin. We have pin removal tools at work but they are for pins that are round, not flat, which is what I think these are?
 

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johnny_red said:
Having just run the wires internally while doing a handlebar change on my Fatboy I can tell you that it's not so hard to do properly. The connectors in the harness are just under the front of the tank, so you don't have to remove it, just undo the mounting bolts, fuel line, and speedo and carefully slide it back a couple of inches. Once you've unplugged the connectors you can carefully dismantle them (after noting which colour goes where...they're numbered) and feed the wires thru your bars. In my opinion cutting and splicing the wires is a half assed way to go. The joins have the potential to create a problem later.
I agree, not hard to do at all. I found using ribbon (easily found around the house this time of year) and shop vac worked very good for feeding wires through bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've already ran a feeder wire through each side of the bars. I got home, got the tank apart, and found the connectors. They are round pins, but I am having probs pushing them out..maybe the pushers I have are the wrong ones?

I've had some beers and a few cigars and feeling kinda "high" so I will continue tomorrow. I disconnected one connector and it doesn't seem too big a deal. I need the right pusher though, I think someone said Radio Shack sells them?

Thanks dudes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ok, separated tank and slid back to expose the two connectors I was looking for.

I disconnected them and tried to push the pins out with my pin pusher tool. No luck..so I got to looking at the connector and it looked like the plastic insulator separates from the shell. It did and exposed the pins. Down inside the connector all I had to do is push on a little tab and the pins just pop out the backside of the shell.

I do not have any tape at home right now, so Im getting some tape and will mark the shell and the wires as required, then get busy feeding them through the bars, etc.

As I said previously, (I think), I have two feeder wires already fed through the bars.

I appreciate the advise from those who replied to my post, thanks. I'm certainly glad I took the time to do it the right way and Im sure it will look a whole lot cleaner than the exposed looked.

Will post pics.
 

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Glad to hear it. Nothing as satisfying as a job well done by oneself.
Ride safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got one side ran and reconnected...looks good so far, very clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here are some pics of my post inside handle bar wire installation. Install went smoothly, thanks to the tips from guys here...you guys helped a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I guess since Im not a paying member I can't even check out my own pics..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alaskan302 said:
Looks great, Now dont you feel great about doing the work yourself?
Yes I do, it looks so clean. Im glad I didn't have a shop do it either, like I did for my handle bar change on my LowRider. I just had him do it while it was down there for something else. I think my install is a much better job than what the guy did on my LowRider.

I really should join this bb as a paying member....whats it cost for a year, like 25 bucks?

I will go searching a find out.
 

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Nice job! The bike looks sweet! Probably looks even nicer knowing you did it yourself. Internal switch wiring is one of the cheapest and nicest mods you can do. You'll be thankful you didn't cut and splice. No worries or shorts to deal with down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Duoglide_62 said:
Nice job! The bike looks sweet! Probably looks even nicer knowing you did it yourself. Internal switch wiring is one of the cheapest and nicest mods you can do. You'll be thankful you didn't cut and splice. No worries or shorts to deal with down the road.
Yea thanks, thats the biggest thing Im most happy about, not doing the cut and splice thing and the future problems I would probably have. Taking apart the connector was probably the most difficult part. I was thinking I had to push the pins out but it wouldn't go either from the front or back that way.

So I got to looking at the situation and figured out that the connector has to be taken apart.
 

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Looks good Jetdoc. Very clean and a new understanding of you bike. Don't get any better.
And it is $15 a year to join here. Just an FYI. Join if you like, no big deal one way or the other.
Keep the rubber side down and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
 
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