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Because my 63 year old left hand isn't keeping up with my 43 year old mind I'm considering installing Harley's reduced effort clutch kit on my 2000 FLHRCI to reduce the work in stop-and-go traffic. My Road King has H-D's 95" kit, Ness Super Sucker, S&S 510G cams, Rinehart True Duals and Power Commander PCIII USB. It's currently putting out 79 h.p. and 92 ft. lbs. after being Dyno tuned. Part of Harley's 95" kit includes a "high performance" clutch spring. I'm concerned if the spring in the reduced effort kit is going to allow clutch slippage on hard throttle applications particulary when riding two-up with luggage. Anyone have an answer to my question? Appreciate any input.
 

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The reduced effort kit from the 06's works very well but it isn't going to hold under that power.

A VPC would reduce the effort and increase TQ capacity, but if the #1 priority is to reduce lever effort due to a medical condition the VPC can be combined with the 06 ramps and diaphragm and the effort reduction from both kits is cummulative, ie you would be able to lighten effort over 60%.

E mail me if you need more info. [email protected]
 

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I put the reduced effort ramps in my 95" but used the SE clutch spring (same as in your kit). I think the pull is about the same as it was with the stock spring and no slipping. I would think that if you are not twisting the throttle hard and shifting hard that you may be able to get away with the whole reduced effort kit (just my thoughts on this). I'm sure someone else has tried this and will chime in.
 

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pa-glazier said:
I put the reduced effort ramps in my 95" but used the SE clutch spring (same as in your kit). I think the pull is about the same as it was with the stock spring and no slipping. I would think that if you are not twisting the throttle hard and shifting hard that you may be able to get away with the whole reduced effort kit (just my thoughts on this). I'm sure someone else has tried this and will chime in.
Hell, I just installed it but haven't ridden the bike yet and I'm worried about it not holding under Stage 1 configuration. The parts guy at the dealer installed the new ramps but used the SE Clutch. To me, it was in between what my bike ('02) was stock and an '06.
 

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NO problems here and I abuse the clutch... NO slippage with the torque i'm creating.
 

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HIPPO said:
The reduced effort kit from the 06's works very well but it isn't going to hold under that power.
I will respectfully disagree with you Hippo. I have a 2003 EGC with GMR's 98", GMR head work, S&S 510g's, V&H Propipe, and lots more. I'm making 99 lb/ft torque, I bang the heck out of it and it has not slipped or shimmied once in the last 1000 miles. I'm using the entire reduced effort kit, clutch spring and all. My scooter has 30,000 total miles on her, so you can see the clutch is not brand new.
I will be the first to report in here if my clutch starts to slip and under what conditions so others may make their own informed decisions.

Ride safe!
Geez.
 

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The SE spring is a 380 lbs spring and the 06 is a 300 lbs spring that drops another 80 lbs of effort once compressed.

The SE spring certainly will have enough clamping force for most any 95 build all by itself. Installing the 18 degree ramps from the 06 instead of the 21 degree ramps from the earlier Twin Cams reduces effort 15%


If you now consider that the bikes from 99 thru 03 had a 330 lbs spring and the 04/05 had a straight 300 lbs spring the effort comparison would depend on the year of the bike.

In many cases the VPC has sufficient centrifugal assist to allow you to use the 06 spring with a 95 build, in this way one gets the effort reduction of the VPC in addition to the effort reduction from the spring.

So, in case of a handicap or medical condition, by going from the SE spring to the 06 spring you are reducing effort with the clutch disengaged at idle from 380 to 220 lbs, and to this you get to add the 30% reduction from the VPC and the 15% reduction from the 18 degree ramps.
At high rpm the effort increases, but this is the characteristic of the VPC that allows you to use the light spring with a 95" build.
 

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Very nicely stated and explained!
 

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Geezer-Glide said:
Very nicely stated and explained!
@gree: and makes sense... Thanks!!!
 

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GG, sure, go ahead and let us know.

There are two types of slippage.
#1 the outright slippage that is perceptible if the clutch is overpowered
#2 the normal slippage that ocurrs every time the bike shifts

If the clutch capacity is close to the limit the slippage as mentioned in #2 is increased leading to more rapid wear.


The best way to observe this in the real world is to run two bikes that are even hard thru the gears. If you have the two bikes that run even and then you go and put a VPC into one of them you will notice that the bikes still run even under power just as before, but at the instant of a shift the bike with the VPC makes at least one if not two lenghts on the bike without it. This is most noticeable in the higher gear shifts ie 3-4 and 4-5.
The other way you can see it is with an all gear full power run on a dyno, but it isn't as much fun. <G>

If you want to run it like it is you might consider using either Redline MTL (preferrable) or type F ATF in the primary, it does help long term.


The technology behind it comes from setting clutches up for top fuel bikes, except in a sense reversing it to get the most benefits out of it for street bikes.
 

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Classic Tourist said:
Because my 63 year old left hand isn't keeping up with my 43 year old mind I'm considering installing Harley's reduced effort clutch kit on my 2000 FLHRCI to reduce the work in stop-and-go traffic. My Road King has H-D's 95" kit, Ness Super Sucker, S&S 510G cams, Rinehart True Duals and Power Commander PCIII USB. It's currently putting out 79 h.p. and 92 ft. lbs. after being Dyno tuned. Part of Harley's 95" kit includes a "high performance" clutch spring. I'm concerned if the spring in the reduced effort kit is going to allow clutch slippage on hard throttle applications particulary when riding two-up with luggage. Anyone have an answer to my question? Appreciate any input.
I put the White bros easy clutch on my bike and it works great and it takes less effort than my buddies 06. Best thing it's about 30.00 dollars and is easy to install.
https://www.directparts.com/cgi-bin/dp.store
 

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The best way to observe this in the real world is to run two bikes that are even hard thru the gears. If you have the two bikes that run even and then you go and put a VPC into one of them you will notice that the bikes still run even under power just as before, but at the instant of a shift the bike with the VPC makes at least one if not two lenghts on the bike without it. This is most noticeable in the higher gear shifts ie 3-4 and 4-5.
This is the reason you see serious street racers shift without using the clutch. They do (or try to) get the same advantage by avoiding to momentarily disengage the clutch.
 

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Classic Tourist said:
Because my 63 year old left hand isn't keeping up with my 43 year old mind I'm considering installing Harley's reduced effort clutch kit on my 2000 FLHRCI to reduce the work in stop-and-go traffic. My Road King has H-D's 95" kit, Ness Super Sucker, S&S 510G cams, Rinehart True Duals and Power Commander PCIII USB. It's currently putting out 79 h.p. and 92 ft. lbs. after being Dyno tuned. Part of Harley's 95" kit includes a "high performance" clutch spring. I'm concerned if the spring in the reduced effort kit is going to allow clutch slippage on hard throttle applications particulary when riding two-up with luggage. Anyone have an answer to my question? Appreciate any input.

I am no expert. But this is what I tried and what I ended up with.

1.) First easyboy light clutch. Worked pretty good with Stock HD clutch. Was a lot harder to pull with my new Scorpion clutch with green springs. Always had trouble finding neutral with both clutches.
2.) Tried the new 18 degree HD ramps. (could not use the spring of course) Was very smooth no problems finding neutral but was harder to pull then the easy boy.
3.) Read about the MRC clutch ($125.00). It has 15 degree ramps and comes with three larger then stock bearings. Put it in adjusted the clutch. Worked great. Action smooth, no problems finding neutral. The clutch lever pull, is actually easier then my wife’s softail with a stock HD clutch with easy boy clutch.

I am going to order one for my wife’s bike and replace the easyboy clutch.

Their web page is http://www.phaedruscycle.com/. I ordered mine from the HD dealer in Las Vegas.
 

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I had the reduced effort kit installed on my 02 RK. It has a 95" with crane gear cams, etc. 95 HP, 105 tqe.

I really like it. Have put only a few thousand miles on it since (60,000 on the original clutch though), haven't noticed any problems so far. Actually, I didn't realized it was even an issue.
 

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Just a FWIW personal experience. I built my 95" and left the clutch alone. 92hp and 98ft.lb. and it doesn't slip outright. But it does spend alot of time slipping into full engagement if I'm banging thru the gears hard. Pretty much as Hippo described it in his post above. For my normal around town and freeway running it's fine. But if I get on it to screw around with another bike I definitely give some up to clutch slippage. I just installed the SE clutch kit, hopefully that will solve the shifting slippage.

Joe
 

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Do you have to do anything with the clutch? I am doing 98" right now. My clutch is off the bike at the moment too.

My plan with the bike long term is to keep rebuilding, with better, when the time comes. I got 34k so hoping for another couple years or so.
 

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New Clutch

Just got the reduced effort clutch in my 04 FLHT Standard. Man does it make a difference :). If you do much stop and go riding, it is a must do upgrade IMHO.

Dave
 
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