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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I bought a 1995 FLHR road king about 2 months ago. I have a lot of work and moo-la into this project.
-new battery #1 (brand new Die hard TX24HL)
I thought I had all of the kinks figured out and took the bike on a long road trip! Went great until about 1200 miles in when the bike started acting like it was running out of gas and died on the side of the road (with a completely dead battery) not low, fried. Like it started great multiple times that day and it just went kaput while driving down the road...
BATTERY#2 (warranty replace tx24hl)
LONG story short and a tow home, I put a brand new battery in and the beast was like a new bike again for about 2 weeks when it did the same thing.

Battery #3 (another warranty replace tx24hl)
And I'm checking all the components again.

-Stator is cycle electric 32amp and installed 2000 miles before I bought the bike. Not grounding and 35-40 AC volts at 2k rpm (Tests good)

- regulator is brand new (custom chrome brand) 13.2volts while idle, 14.3V above 2k rpm. (Tests good)

I checked draw on the negative with the regulator was .8 mA and 28mV
When I remove the long wire from the regulator to the 50amp circuit breaker, the draw went to 0.0mV, so I figured the regulator may have gone bad?

Purchased a cycle electric regulator and the draw is actually worse. Now I'm getting 1.4mA and 80mV? I didn't start it to check charging cause now I'll assuming my old one was perfectly fine.

There must be something I'm missing.. why would I get an 80mV draw with ignition off from a new regulator that goes to 0.0 when I remove it from the system?

Why am I burning up batteries? Is "die hard" battery just a bad quality battery that can't handle being in a harley?

If you might have any suggestions, let me know please, I'm bald now from pulling out all of my hair.
 

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One thing kills a battery really fast-
overcharging.
I recommend hooking up a dash-type Volt M. and monitoring it.
I will bet for some reason your regulator is coming ungrounded and cooking the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
One thing kills a battery really fast-
overcharging.
I recommend hooking up a dash-type Volt M. and monitoring it.
I will bet for some reason your regulator is coming ungrounded and cooking the
I thought the same thing l, so I bought a voltage monitor from Amazon. The kind that hooks up though a charge port. It has been telling me that the max is 14.3 going down the road and 13.2ish at idle.
Even when it acts up, it's properly charging (seemingly)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IDK--but if you eliminate all that is right then you are near what is wrong?
Not quite understanding what you're meaning.

I installed the new regulator, brand new battery, completely tested everything. Every seems "fine", so I'm going to just ride it and monitor the voltage l, watching for spikes. See what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What's wrong with the battery when it fails?
Hello,
The bike acts like it's running out of gas going down the road, and the battery will shot 12.8-13volts when I pull over. I'll check things out, everything seems fine and I'll go down the road for about 30-60 seconds everything works well until it starts sputtering spearatically. This goes on for 3 or 4 times then, all of the sudden the bike won't start and the battery is now showing 5volts.

Replace the battery, everything is back to normal (charging at 13.3-14.3 volts) and we go another two weeks / 1000miles or so and it happens again. I'm on my third battery, but installed the new "cycle electric" rectifier and we'll see how it goes.

From the couple of people I've spoken with, I'm going to try a different brand of battery next. These 3 were from the same 7/20 batch number, so maybe there is a batch that is bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What did the used batt rate for voltage?
The old battery, when I died, was reading 5.8volts and would not charge anymore (which it was charging before I took it out, because I use a battery tender the night before long rides) so it was "fully charged" the night before
 

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Hello,
The bike acts like it's running out of gas going down the road, and the battery will shot 12.8-13volts when I pull over. I'll check things out, everything seems fine and I'll go down the road for about 30-60 seconds everything works well until it starts sputtering spearatically. This goes on for 3 or 4 times then, all of the sudden the bike won't start and the battery is now showing 5volts.

Replace the battery, everything is back to normal (charging at 13.3-14.3 volts) and we go another two weeks / 1000miles or so and it happens again. I'm on my third battery, but installed the new "cycle electric" rectifier and we'll see how it goes.

From the couple of people I've spoken with, I'm going to try a different brand of battery next. These 3 were from the same 7/20 batch number, so maybe there is a batch that is bad
Ya, well, I would try putting the battery on a charger before I replaced it again. If it shows 12.8 with the scooter running, you have a charging issue. Try moving the wire from the regulator to the positive term of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ya, well, I would try putting the battery on a charger before I replaced it again. If it shows 12.8 with the scooter running, you have a charging issue. Try moving the wire from the regulator to the positive term of the battery.
What? Yes, I attempted to charge the battery before I replaced it. It would not charge. I also left it at the auto parts store overnight so they could attempt to charge it, but it was toast. Thats they warrantied it.
 

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What? Yes, I attempted to charge the battery before I replaced it. It would not charge. I also left it at the auto parts store overnight so they could attempt to charge it, but it was toast. Thats they warrantied it.
Well that would indicate that the electrical system is over charging. A battery that will hold a charge sitting on a shelf for months, then goes dead after a week or two of service, is rarely bad.

What did you charge it with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You
Well that would indicate that the electrical system is over charging. A battery that will hold a charge sitting on a shelf for months, then goes dead after a week or two of service, is rarely bad.

What did you charge it with?
You'd think so right? But I'm constantly monitoring with the voltage regulator, so unless it's happening too fast for it to pick up, I don't know.
 

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You


You'd think so right? But I'm constantly monitoring with the voltage regulator, so unless it's happening too fast for it to pick up, I don't know.
I'm confused. If it shows 12.8 with the scooter running, its a charging system issue. It can't show 12.8 and 14.ish at the same time.

Charge the battery with one of the cables disconnected. Not with a little ,2 amp charger, but a real battery charger. It should read 14.6v after more than 20 minutes at 10-15 amps. That fist little voltage bump is a surface charge. Then after it sits for 12 hours off the charger and disconnected from the scooter, it should still be 12.6 or a little more. Now load test it at its rated amps. That little hand held thing you see people use will not test it at the rated amps. They top out at 50 or 100 amps. If it passes that, the battery is good. Charge it back up and reconnect the cable.

The charging system is easy. No grounds on any of the stator leads. ZERO. Then spec voltage between any two of the stator leads at the prescribed rpm as per the factory specs. That's Harley specs, not something some third party says it should be. Inspect both sides of the plug while its split. The regulator needs a good ground, so that means the fram needs a good ground. Don't trust an ohm meter, voltage drop it. Then inspect the positive circuit from the regulator to the battery. No repairs, or splices should be trusted. And the eyelet at the battery should be soldered. The regulator runs its own show. If there is AC currant from the stator, it rectifies it to 12 volts with diodes, then feeds enough DC current to the battery to maintain 14.5 or there bouts. Any extra current is shunted to ground. So usually, any funky work one day not the next stuff is rooted in the regulator. Any current flow with the motor off, on the lead to the battery, is a bad regulator.

One other thing I see on those old scooter a lot is they are missing the shunt between the battery and the relay where the wire from the regulator is attached, Not sure about that particular scooter, but on a 94 Ultra the wire from the regulator attaches to the main relay on the negative post. There is also a red wire on that post. The positive post (copper) has a black wire that attaches to the positive battery cable at the starter. And there is a lot that can go wrong there. So for diagnostics, just connect that regulator wire to the positive battery post.
 
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