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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
~!Awesome!

1999 FLHRCI, 95", S&S 570's, SBC Vortec II heads.

Never done it before, not really racing I don't think, just want the time slips and the fun of doing it.

Don't really know how to go about it. I know I need a tach, although I have heard of something called shift lights or something like that.

Plan on running local strips and at Sturgis.

Any thoughts or directions I should look? TIA, Mark in Olympia, WA (the Great Northwet)

:yikes:
 

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Good Luck,
i've been racing my 01 FXD 95" 5 years now, love drag racing.
best advice is don't try too hard, a lot try hard and go slower.
just have to get used to it, don't worry about tach or shift light at first just go out and race like you do off the lights.
but you need to remember as soon as the two white lights are on your staged, so hold the front brake on, hold engine revs up say about 2,500 to start, when the last orange comes on go. to shift i just put a load on the gear leaver then back off throtle quick it falls into next gear open it up, that seems to be quickest and smoothest way, i only use the clutch on the line.listen to your motor if you know how when you hear the sweet spot shift. if you enjoy it then get a shift light, tach is not really needed, but i use it as i'm deaf and i use the tach to hold rev up to were i launch at, i know what rev my bike will wheelstand at and i just hold it at the rev were it goes out hard with front wheel just off the track.
after you have first pass if you got traction and bike felt ok off the line, look at your 60' time, next pass try to hold revs say 500rev higher than the first pass then when you get your ticket check out the 60' if the 60' was quicker and you shifted ok your ET and trap speed should also be quicker and faster.
cheers lakes
 

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I am not sure of the rules and regs as i am not a regualar racer, but i used to go once and a while with my mustangs and my fatboy a couple times. I know my raceway requires a full face helmet and a leather suit. I know it may be common knowledge to some, but i figured i would let you know since i wouldn't want to see you make the trip an not be able to race. In any case have fun and dont get pi$$es about your times. If you are not experianced thay may not be good to start. Street racing and racing with the trees are a whole different world, to me anyway....Have fun......good luck....
 

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Will also need a dead mans switch to kill the bike if you fall off. Usually a wrist cord connectd to the kill swith so if you hand leaves the bars the motor is killed.
Good luck and have fun.
 

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Good points, best way is go to the track you will race at to get track regulations.i have a drag race licence here in australia we have one governing body ANDRA.
For championship meets we have to wear full face helmet and full leathers , but at grudge meets you only need a leather jacket but must have jeans and boots and gloves, you can run an open face helmet if you are slower than 11.99, but if you are quicker than 11.99 you need a full face helmet.
 

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nhra tracks full face helmet Jacket and over the ankle boot or shoe untill you run 9.99 then its full leathers & a tether is mandatory Have a good time & drop the rear tire pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
:coffee:

Thanks guys, I have heard that you don't need the kill switch or full face until a certain time here locally.

I too, am unable to hear my bike when I am next to another so will look for a tach, which I would think would be preferable to a shift light, although I will look into it more.

Really looking forward to this summer.

TIA, Mark

:2flips:
 

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Electronic shifter!

If you have a USB power commander I would get their electronic shifter. It attaches to the shift lever and is controlled by the PC unit. You simply set the RPM that you want to shift at and it takes over. For under $300 its worth it to me to keep both hands on the handle bars and concentrate on looking ahead!
 

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Til you get used to racing, you can just go to the 1/8th mile to save your equipment. Keep trying to get the 60 foot time good. Ask someone who has some experience and a similar bike what a good time would be for your bike at 1/8 mile and shoot for that. Good luck, Friday

www.dyno-power.com AHDRA Pro Mod #3
 

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Here are some tips:
*ALWAYS wear the BEST protection you can get no matter what the rules say, dress for the crash not the ride.
*NEVER go through the water box with your front tire.
*Lower your rear tire pressure for better traction and ALWAYS do a burn out to clean off the pit/staging lane crud from it.
*If the track allows you to do so do 1 or 2 dry hops to confirm the tire temp.
*BOTH feet down and to the rear for stability on the launch.
*It may be easier to have the throttle just above idle on your launch then as the clutch is almost out you can go to WOT, you will have better clutch control at lower RPM and less chance of spinning that hard compound street tire.
*Double grip the throttle, allot of riders simply do not have enough wrist rotation to fully hold the throttle WO. Over grab it so that at normal grip you wil be at WOT.
*Don't let anyone else bully you on the tree, do everything the EXACT same each time, roll into the pre lite ( it is not nice to turn on both lites until your opponent has turned on the pre stage lite) (some tracks have autostart so if the other person has the staged lite on you only have a limited amount of time to get ready)then position yourself the way you like on the seat, get your legs back, close your face shield, get your re grip on the throttle, get your position on the clutch then when YOU are ready roll into the second lite, just as the light comes on roll 1 inch and stop the same place every time let out the clutch until you feel a slight drag.
Wait for the ambers and go as soon as the last one lights. (LED's are harder to judge than incandescent)
Once you do the pre start procedure a few times you should get into a routine to do the exact same things every time, same goes for the launch and shifting.
Shift lites are nice so are air shifters, this is for the racer who needs to be consistent every run where predicting your elapsed time is important, but just important is your reaction time, which is counted in on your "total package" in bracket racing.
Don't worry about the ZX10 or Hayabusa or 10 second car you could race, it is bracket racing, I have seen a 24 second Hondamatic beat all!


Eventually you will get bit by the drag bug and will be going all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
:thumbsup: Thanks to all for the information, lots to look at, think about and figure out how to do it.

I will look into that shifter for my USB PC and will probably get a tach for off the line. I will need to find one that will fit behind my windshield and windshield bag.

Lots to do, cold but clear here today. TTYS, Mark

:D
 

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Check your local track see if they have Test and Tune night. You will get alot of track time and don't have to worry about eliminations. Usually cheaper then a regular race night.
Those donlops do not like a lot of heat if you do a burnout keep it short, I'll just do a dry hop just ahead of the water to clean the tire.
99'NightTrain
SE Heads,10.5 Forged SE Pistons,#54 Cam, T-Header, Zippers lower gear Primary.
12.60s @ 107
250lb Jockey swinging the whip:xhere:
 
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