V-Twin Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had some issues settling on a mechanic to do my work. Fired two before they even got started, and another when I saw his workmanship. I am quite happy with the guy who has it now. Anyway, he is finishing up installing my upgrades. I am expecting her back tomorrow. He sent a couple of videos this evening....



Had a couple of very small ripples removed from the tank.
Sent tank to Florida for electrolysis treatment and epoxy coating.
New Petcock.
Removed mids and installed floorboards (with mid pedal mod, as found on this site). Currently shown floorboards will be replaced with period correct (I think).
Replaced Riser Bushings
Relocated Oil Filter to the Pre '92 location (under transmission)
Install of Oil Catch can (I don't know that it's needed. I just want to monitor how much oil that MAY be misting thru the head breathers.)
Installed Thunderheader 1019 with chromed CDC Transmission Mount Bracket (was still able to utilize the torque arm by using some shims)
Clean and re-jet carb
Ohlins 753 on Rear
New 2001-03 FXDX Sport Fully Adjustable Cartridge Fork Tubes
Screaming Eagle Fork Brace
HD 4 Piston Calipers up front
HD singe piston caliper in rear (just replaced the old with a new)
New EBC Rotors front and rear
Wheel bearing replacement (wheels were off, so why not?)
LeatherPros removable saddlebags
New LePera Seats (Monterey Smooth (added row of studs), matching wide pillion (both with biker gel), and backrest.
Full inspection and servicing
Throttle lock replacement
New chrome only Live to Ride Long stem mirrors (not yet installed). Ya,... I couldn't resist the urge to get them. Was kind of hard to find.
probably more.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Have you looked into the swing arm bushings at all. That's an important area
I assume he did, as he has been very thorough with his inspection. Every time I have remembered something I wanted fixed or checked, and mentioned it to him.... he has already checked and/or fixed it. We specifically discussed checking all motor mounts from the very beginning. (I assume the swing arm bushings are related to the rear mounts.) I'll be sure to discuss it with him though. Thanks for the tip.

Honestly, I would be hard pressed to come up with many more dollars to address that issue, if needed, right now. I'm sure I could find it somewhere if they absolutely had to be repaired. The current economy has me a bit strapped though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Oh I hear you trust me. Mentioned because I see you were upgrading suspension parts. Those cleaveblock bushings are a well known issue with "bagger wobble" FXR's have same issues. Makes all the difference in the world for handling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Oh I hear you trust me. Mentioned because I see you were upgrading suspension parts. Those cleaveblock bushings are a well known issue with "bagger wobble" FXR's have same issues. Makes all the difference in the world for handling.
Just curious... so these swingarm bushings, are they (as I assume) related to the rear motor mounts? I mean, is it something that a good mechanic would typically assess when doing an inspection and/or checking those rear motor mounts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,764 Posts
whether a mechanic would inspect them,, depends entirely on what the client stated he wanted done...

I would upgrade the bushings to one of several aftermarket kits,, using urethane, spherical bushings or bronze bushings... I lean towards the bronze bushings wit a grease fitting included..

alot if baggers have problems with the OE bushings,, and need replacement the handling will be greatly improved,, as will the wobble many baggers experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
He says they are good. I will get proactive with them over the next couple of winters, I am confident.

In the mean time, he has her done... a few minor finishing touches, and delivery tomorrow due to rain and a dirt/mud road he has to drive to get here.

She sounds much better now!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Way to tell if your bushings are good or not. Taking a long sweeping turn at speed. Push it a little more and more at a time but you'll start to feel the a$$ end of the bike start wiggling back and fourth. The more weight you have on the rear the worse it gets so I would not do this with a passenger. Those cleave blocks are old and most likely original. Visual inspection will not reveal what's up most times. They can look OK and be shot. Push it slowly more and more till you feel it oscillate. You will not be able to not notice it when it happens. The first ime it does will leave you thinking WTF? I would test till you confirm. Good luck with the bike she's a beauty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Way to tell if your bushings are good or not. Taking a long sweeping turn at speed. Push it a little more and more at a time but you'll start to feel the a$$ end of the bike start wiggling back and fourth. The more weight you have on the rear the worse it gets so I would not do this with a passenger. Those cleave blocks are old and most likely original. Visual inspection will not reveal what's up most times. They can look OK and be shot. Push it slowly more and more till you feel it oscillate. You will not be able to not notice it when it happens. The first ime it does will leave you thinking WTF? I would test till you confirm. Good luck with the bike she's a beauty.
Thanks... I'll test it out. Iwas told when ibought it at the dealership, it had been one if the mechanics bikes... so quite well maintained. So fast, everything my mechanic had told me confirms that.

Still, as you suggest.... I'll seerfor myself.

Curious though, as no one answered this question for me... the motor mounts to/ with these bushings? Not exactly one in the same, but closely related?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
The rear swing arm has two mounting points, one on each side of the transmission housing. The transmision housing has a hole in it and is solid aluminum. The pivot shat goes through it. Sometimes this hole gets worn in the aluminum causing some slack and movement due to poor fit you should check how the pivot shaft Fits in trans housing. If it goes through fits snug but can still rotate that's good. Now the swing arm from the factory has rubber bushings in it with sleaves that the pivot shaft goes through also. Those get soft and mushy with age they can make the swings arm at the rear move side to side under load as in going around a turn the tire will track back and forth making the bike feel like it has a hinge in the middle under your butt. You will feel this oscillation in a curve. These swingarm bushings can be replaced with less flexible material. This gives the bike a much more solid locked in feel especially in the corners. If you ride fairly normal and carve curves on regular basis "Sta-bo" makes a harder plastic replacement that works very well and won't add too much vibration. As you begin to stiffen things up more vibration will be felt. If you ride pretty hard there are Spherical bearing that replace the bushing these work very well also better than sta-bo but more rigid and even more vibes. Then the ultimate in rigidity would be be solid bronze "Tracula" bushings. I run these. Most vibes but great for curve psychos and high speed riding with rock solid tracking. Also the rubber isolator mounts those two rubber donuts on each outide of the swingarm visible on each side of bike when you look at the pivot area. They are hollow and allow some give in the rear. They get old and should also be replaced. They sell steel inserts that you can put in those Rivera "Stiffy's" I run the as well. Combined with the bronze bushings in swingarm and making sure transmission hole is tight represents just about the ultimate in handling and tracking for the rear of your ride. All this does come at the cost of added vibration however. If you consider yourself a more normal rider and do longer rides you'll get the most comfortable solution from sta-bo. I've had these as my first upgrade and really liked them. Once I added the crazy motor they weren't enough to hold it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Front motor mounts are either rubber or urethane. These will also affect vibes rubner is softer urethane is slightly harder. I run an alloy art mount and love it. There are many others. Also overlooked is the the stabilizers. Basicaly a steel rod with a hiem joint on each end. There is one on top of your motor between the jugs conectling motor to frame and one in front of motor keppimg it all in place. These allow your motor to move up and down and shake away vibrations. They wear out and will cause excess vibration. Che k those and replace as needed. All these things combined will make huge difference in your bike handling ability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for all the info... I'm not a high adrenaline rider by any means... so I see which you would suggest. I like some twisties, but don't grey crazy with them, and am setting her up more as a sporty touring ride. Able to comfortably do longer trips... I hope. Thus all the suspension work, seats, and boards. Haven't felt anything in the past, as you described though. Had I known they were a suspension related item, I may have tackled them this year. Next season's upgraded will be more mechanical/ drive train in nature... most likely... which is when I was really planning on getting proactive with mounts and such. Of course, this year's economy is a bust so far... do who knows what will be on this winter's to do list?

Thanks again for the info.... I'll do more study research on all this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
Yes the choice for you is clear. As stated I had them on my ride first. They were a huge improvement. Stopped all rear wobble except when going to the extremes and less vibes. Initially they are harder after some mileage the vibes got less and they did their job well. You also won't need the steel inserts in the rubber isolators in rear. But I would suggest changing the rubber isolators for sure. Also the two metal engine stabilizers and front motor mount should be checked and or changed out no matter what. You'll have a solid sled you won't have to worry about and really experience the pleasure of riding an fxr. If the former owner was a mechanic hopefully some of these may have already been addressed.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top