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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well guys, I finally ditched the short shots. They are on the shelf. Haven't decided if I'm going to get rid of them yet or not but they aren't on the bike any more.

With that said...

I went ahead and contacted Danmoto about the Highwayman 2-1 exhaust they offer.
A little about the pipe :
Danmoto Highwayman 2-1 Brushed/Stainless Exhaust also offered in black ceramic
From the description on DM site as well as JP
•They are short, aggressive looking and build with best performance in mind.
•They feature stepped headers, a full merge collector with spring held headers and a megaphone muffler.
•The sound is a very low, deep rumble, due to the big sized baffle in the muffler.
• If you want it really loud, you can remove the baffle with 2 screws and turn the exhaust into a completely open system.
• They are exhausts systems are suitable for stock and heavily tuned engines.
•The whole exhaust system is made of Stainless Steel, Grade 304. This includes the internals of the muffler, as well as the mounting hardware.
•The muffler endcap is made off contrast cut billet aluminum.
• It's a very lightweight exhaust system, the total weight is just about 8.8lbs
• In the headers are two bungs for 18mm O2 sensors, suitable for use with aftermarket fuel management systems. Comes with bung allen head bung plugs
•This exhaust system has a no surface coating.
• The stainless steel was brushed to give it the "Works" look you know from super sport racing exhaust systems.
• The Black Systems use a plasma spray ceramic coating.
• One year Manufactures warranty

Oh yeah... did I mention the one I put on my 1988 FXRS is for a 2006-2011 Dyna?!?!
The part number for an FXR is Hm-0032
It mergers where the highway cruising pegs are and doesn't have a/f bungs. 2 big bummers for me. I wanna dyno tune my bike after heads are done by Bean and jugs are punched out for my forged 10:1 +10 Wiseco pistons ( dragging my a$$ on the project cause it's riding season lol oh well). So a/f will help (more so than a sniffer) get the S&S dialed and the bike running propper which is what I'm after.

The part number I put on my bike is HM-0011 for 2006-2011 Dyna.
When I first contacted Danmoto via email they said .... yeah not happening kid. The dyna pipe won't clear the mids. And it might cook the rear master cylinder. We don't suggest you try it.
Being young dumb and thick headed I responded, oh yeah watch me. I'll order it mock it up and if it doesn't fit I'll order the correct part number. They were super patient with me and answered all my questions quite promptly. So props to them as a company for sure.

At first I loosely bolted it up careful not to scratch it up ( fail) in case I had to return the thing. Initially it looked like DM was right but I couldn't tighten it down without the correct exhaust gaskets that the pipe requires. So I ordered them and when they got here today I put it on for real. It clears everything like it was meant too and I'm stoked. No problems with mids, brake pedal travel, or contacting the frame. DanMoto then was concerned with the rear master cyl getting hot. But after running the bike it didn't even get warm so I sent them a video and pictures and they are pleased. I wouldn't be surprised if they pitch the exhaust towards FXR's as well as Dynas now.

Sounds great looks good (imo) and I hope to see more of the FXR guys running them. Did I mention that the exhaust with gaskets (ordered separately) came to a grand total of....get this.....
$251.97 to my door from JP cycles. Can't even touched a used 2-1 for double that.
 

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The closet to the post, the more accurate the readings. Perhaps around the rear a bit, out of sight, would be more aesthetically pleasing,,, it's not like O2 sensors need frequent alterations.. screw them in, plug them in and it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10


The bungs are ugly, but functional so I said the heck with it.. but the only time I'll ever use them is for a dyno. Besides that they will be plugged.

The pipes took a nice tan after a 25 mile ride, I happen to like it for now but we'll see if it keeps getting darker


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Hi - how's it run w/the new 2-1 pipe? does it make power like a typical 2-1 header?? considering the typical 2-1 goes for any where from $550 to $1500 - it's a great deal! good luck with it. !!thumbs How's the sound? regards WH
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hi - how's it run w/the new 2-1 pipe? does it make power like a typical 2-1 header?? considering the typical 2-1 goes for any where from $550 to $1500 - it's a great deal! good luck with it. !!thumbs How's the sound? regards WH


Runs great, can feel that it is much more "awake" in lower rpm than the short shots are by a mile. The flat spot I used to feel at around 3k- 3500k is no longer obvious. We'll see when I finally do get it to a dyno. The Highwayman sounds more like a rumble at idle and doesn't abuse the ear drums until WOT. It's good an loud when you whack the throttle for sure. A few revs will surely pi$$ the neighbors off. Still need to tune the carb accordingly as it was never truly dialed in when I had the short shots. It was just good enough for me to ride a season or two. Tuned by recommendations and by ear. But now that I got it on and had it for a ride, it's time to take it off again so I can get to my base gasket lol.

The only "hitch" that I am aware of is that the rear mounting bracket supplied doesn't work on an fxr. All it is, is a 4" by say 4" piece of steel with 4 holes drilled in.Two bolt holes for the pipe two for the trans. It's bent kind of like " ~ " .I might cut it and use it some how but for now The hardware will still be put to use as well as a $2 piece of flat stock bent and drilled to your needs.
 

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Runs great, can feel that it is much more "awake" in lower rpm than the short shots are by a mile. The flat spot I used to feel at around 3k- 3500k is no longer obvious. We'll see when I finally do get it to a dyno. The Highwayman sounds more like a rumble at idle and doesn't abuse the ear drums until WOT. It's good an loud when you whack the throttle for sure. A few revs will surely pi$$ the neighbors off. Still need to tune the carb accordingly as it was never truly dialed in when I had the short shots. It was just good enough for me to ride a season or two. Tuned by recommendations and by ear. But now that I got it on and had it for a ride, it's time to take it off again so I can get to my base gasket lol.

The only "hitch" that I am aware of is that the rear mounting bracket supplied doesn't work on an fxr. All it is, is a 4" by say 4" piece of steel with 4 holes drilled in.Two bolt holes for the pipe two for the trans. It's bent kind of like " ~ " .I might cut it and use it some how but for now The hardware will still be put to use as well as a $2 piece of flat stock bent and drilled to your needs.
Glad to see someone else who was interested in the Dan Moto stuff. Glad it worked out for you. I missed out on a V&H Pro Pipe for cheap and I'm torn between these and a 2 into 2 conversion kit the removes the crossover pipe. I'd be very interested in your dyno results.

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The Dan Moto Pipe has issues in compared to, say V&H or Drago's units: The primary pipes are about 6" shorter than almost any other 2 into 1 that you will find. That means they are a "right side of the tach" pipe, and are tuned for about 1000 more rpm than you will typically ever use. The entire power range is shifted up, this will make more power at 7000 rpm than other 2 into 1s, but unless your riding is mostly dragstrip AND you have a BIG cam (over say 260 degrees @ .053) you will never see it. Dragos and the new stepped V&Hs are upper end, big engine pipes too but not as much so as the Dan Motos, and they have even more bottom end and mid range torque than the Motos do.
You like the Dan Motos because the Short Shots have so little bottom end and ANY 2 into 1 is better there, but try V&Hs earlier 2 into 1 pipes without the primary step (easy to identify as the muffler is a straight cone without any step either) and there will be as much more bottom/ mid range power as the Motos give you.
Drago Dragula IIs gave me about 1-2 hp more around 5500 rpm and up, but they lost about 10-12 ft/lbs of torque at 1500-3000 rpm. I use those because I have a built 05 SE Fatboy that has a 150/80 rear tire and even with a soft Dunlop 502 I can put it up in smoke from just a hard roll on in first or second gear. Losing some of the bottom end makes it easier to "pedal" for traction and I get a little more on top.
The Dan Motos will also be 3-4 mpg less than non-stepped V&Hs too, but are still better than short shots.
I currently have early non-stepped V&Hs, late stepped V&Hs, Dan Motos, and the Dragula IIs (that are on my bike currently,) and oh yeah, I have a Dynojet dyno also, so I have a reasonably good idea of what does what.
Other Dan Moto issues are: no coating or heat shields- fried my foot and leg, thin tubing (I would worry about long term durability), and O2 sensor bung locations that only a racer could like because the rest of us would prefer not to see them (they could have put those where everybody else does, as they are not a maintenance item.) If you like a plum or purple color, the pipes will make you happy after you run them hard a few times too (smart ass comment, but true.)

Background info:
my bike: 05 SE Fatboy, 110 (bolt on cyls, forged pistons,) 257 cam (252/260 and .569"), 54 t-body, big intake manifold, ported SE 103 heads w/ big valves, 10.8 compression, T-Max computer, Dragula II headers w/3" muffler, and over 120 HP (5900 rpm) on several dynos, getting 40-47 mpg on pump premium fuel.
wife's bike: 04 SE Deuce 95, 251 cam (244/250 and .579"), bored and ported t-body and intake manifold, ported stock heads w/ big valves, 10.1 compression, T-Max computer, V&H non-stepped headers w/ hi flow modified baffle, and over 97 HP on pump gas.
We have tried all of the headers on both bikes and with these combos and the installed headers are the best blend of a good wide power band and fuel mileage.
When we get back from Sturgis both bikes will get bigger heads and higher lift cams, and then the header games will begin again, but the Dan Motos will be for sale, as I already know what they do and they don't fit our riding style or combos.
Everybody has a different combo and riding style, so this info is presented only to provide trends of what to expect with different headers. There may be some useful here info for those of you without dynos and the time to experiment. P.S these are not just bar to bar hoppers, as we ride about 12,000+ miles per year and are in our 60s!
TIMINATOR
P.S. to me the Dan Motos have a sound similar to a "riced out" *** car, not a Harley. JMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The Dan Moto Pipe has issues in compared to, say V&H or Drago's units: The primary pipes are about 6" shorter than almost any other 2 into 1 that you will find. That means they are a "right side of the tach" pipe, and are tuned for about 1000 more rpm than you will typically ever use. The entire power range is shifted up, this will make more power at 7000 rpm than other 2 into 1s, but unless your riding is mostly dragstrip AND you have a BIG cam (over say 260 degrees @ .053) you will never see it. Dragos and the new stepped V&Hs are upper end, big engine pipes too but not as much so as the Dan Motos, and they have even more bottom end and mid range torque than the Motos do.
You like the Dan Motos because the Short Shots have so little bottom end and ANY 2 into 1 is better there, but try V&Hs earlier 2 into 1 pipes without the primary step (easy to identify as the muffler is a straight cone without any step either) and there will be as much more bottom/ mid range power as the Motos give you.
Drago Dragula IIs gave me about 1-2 hp more around 5500 rpm and up, but they lost about 10-12 ft/lbs of torque at 1500-3000 rpm. I use those because I have a built 05 SE Fatboy that has a 150/80 rear tire and even with a soft Dunlop 502 I can put it up in smoke from just a hard roll on in first or second gear. Losing some of the bottom end makes it easier to "pedal" for traction and I get a little more on top.
The Dan Motos will also be 3-4 mpg less than non-stepped V&Hs too, but are still better than short shots.
I currently have early non-stepped V&Hs, late stepped V&Hs, Dan Motos, and the Dragula IIs (that are on my bike currently,) and oh yeah, I have a Dynojet dyno also, so I have a reasonably good idea of what does what.
Other Dan Moto issues are: no coating or heat shields- fried my foot and leg, thin tubing (I would worry about long term durability), and O2 sensor bung locations that only a racer could like because the rest of us would prefer not to see them (they could have put those where everybody else does, as they are not a maintenance item.) If you like a plum or purple color, the pipes will make you happy after you run them hard a few times too (smart ass comment, but true.)

Background info:
my bike: 05 SE Fatboy, 110 (bolt on cyls, forged pistons,) 257 cam (252/260 and .569"), 54 t-body, big intake manifold, ported SE 103 heads w/ big valves, 10.8 compression, T-Max computer, Dragula II headers w/3" muffler, and over 120 HP (5900 rpm) on several dynos, getting 40-47 mpg on pump premium fuel.
wife's bike: 04 SE Deuce 95, 251 cam (244/250 and .579"), bored and ported t-body and intake manifold, ported stock heads w/ big valves, 10.1 compression, T-Max computer, V&H non-stepped headers w/ hi flow modified baffle, and over 97 HP on pump gas.
We have tried all of the headers on both bikes and with these combos and the installed headers are the best blend of a good wide power band and fuel mileage.
When we get back from Sturgis both bikes will get bigger heads and higher lift cams, and then the header games will begin again, but the Dan Motos will be for sale, as I already know what they do and they don't fit our riding style or combos.
Everybody has a different combo and riding style, so this info is presented only to provide trends of what to expect with different headers. There may be some useful here info for those of you without dynos and the time to experiment. P.S these are not just bar to bar hoppers, as we ride about 12,000+ miles per year and are in our 60s!
TIMINATOR
P.S. to me the Dan Motos have a sound similar to a "riced out" *** car, not a Harley. JMHO


Man how I would love to own a dyno. Must be nice! But thank you for the insight. You got some $ invested for sure! No doubt about it the DM gets hot but it's no biggie for me unless in traffic.
Like you said, anythings is better than short shots, and for the $ the DM can't be beat.
Most of my riding is done at about 4,000 rpms on Garden State Parkway in NJ. It's a get going or get off type of driving around these parts. Ppl up your a$$ at 80mph with less than a car length. Literally. But any way I do 46 miles a day 20 each way - all about 80-90 mph except for the 3 miles of which are 40mph too and from the parkway. So the upper rpms don't bother me so much as that's where I have to be in order to pass and keep up. Certainly not 7,000 but I do wind up the little old Evo quite a bit.

This exhaust will hold me over until this motors worn and old.... then I'll be bugging Terry about a 113" tune!


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i have a pretty good amount of experience with Dan Moto stuff and none of it good, i wish you well with your pipe, but i truly find it hard to recomend DM products to anyone!!
m
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i have a pretty good amount of experience with Dan Moto stuff and none of it good, i wish you well with your pipe, but i truly find it hard to recomend DM products to anyone!!
m


That seems to be the general consensus... but honestly I didn't expect much for $170 bucks lol. Just had to get the short shots off. Still have them just incase though...


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Well guys, I finally ditched the short shots. They are on the shelf. Haven't decided if I'm going to get rid of them yet or not but they aren't on the bike any more.

With that said...

I went ahead and contacted Danmoto about the Highwayman 2-1 exhaust they offer.
A little about the pipe :
Danmoto Highwayman 2-1 Brushed/Stainless Exhaust also offered in black ceramic
From the description on DM site as well as JP
•They are short, aggressive looking and build with best performance in mind.
•They feature stepped headers, a full merge collector with spring held headers and a megaphone muffler.
•The sound is a very low, deep rumble, due to the big sized baffle in the muffler.
• If you want it really loud, you can remove the baffle with 2 screws and turn the exhaust into a completely open system.
• They are exhausts systems are suitable for stock and heavily tuned engines.
•The whole exhaust system is made of Stainless Steel, Grade 304. This includes the internals of the muffler, as well as the mounting hardware.
•The muffler endcap is made off contrast cut billet aluminum.
• It's a very lightweight exhaust system, the total weight is just about 8.8lbs
• In the headers are two bungs for 18mm O2 sensors, suitable for use with aftermarket fuel management systems. Comes with bung allen head bung plugs
•This exhaust system has a no surface coating.
• The stainless steel was brushed to give it the "Works" look you know from super sport racing exhaust systems.
• The Black Systems use a plasma spray ceramic coating.
• One year Manufactures warranty

Oh yeah... did I mention the one I put on my 1988 FXRS is for a 2006-2011 Dyna?!?!
The part number for an FXR is Hm-0032
It mergers where the highway cruising pegs are and doesn't have a/f bungs. 2 big bummers for me. I wanna dyno tune my bike after heads are done by Bean and jugs are punched out for my forged 10:1 +10 Wiseco pistons ( dragging my a$$ on the project cause it's riding season lol oh well). So a/f will help (more so than a sniffer) get the S&S dialed and the bike running propper which is what I'm after.

The part number I put on my bike is HM-0011 for 2006-2011 Dyna.
When I first contacted Danmoto via email they said .... yeah not happening kid. The dyna pipe won't clear the mids. And it might cook the rear master cylinder. We don't suggest you try it.
Being young dumb and thick headed I responded, oh yeah watch me. I'll order it mock it up and if it doesn't fit I'll order the correct part number. They were super patient with me and answered all my questions quite promptly. So props to them as a company for sure.

At first I loosely bolted it up careful not to scratch it up ( fail) in case I had to return the thing. Initially it looked like DM was right but I couldn't tighten it down without the correct exhaust gaskets that the pipe requires. So I ordered them and when they got here today I put it on for real. It clears everything like it was meant too and I'm stoked. No problems with mids, brake pedal travel, or contacting the frame. DanMoto then was concerned with the rear master cyl getting hot. But after running the bike it didn't even get warm so I sent them a video and pictures and they are pleased. I wouldn't be surprised if they pitch the exhaust towards FXR's as well as Dynas now.

Sounds great looks good (imo) and I hope to see more of the FXR guys running them. Did I mention that the exhaust with gaskets (ordered separately) came to a grand total of....get this.....
$251.97 to my door from JP cycles. Can't even touched a used 2-1 for double that.
I took the screws out but the baffle will not come out and issue on your end with it
 
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