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So got the inner primary together (FINALY) got the clutch diaphragm spring to .003 the set screw 3/4 turn backed out from seated. Went to adjust the clutch cable and got it to spec of 1/8 free play. Gave er a light pull and it’s a brick. I’m preeeetty positive one or more of the balls in the ramp came out as I must have pushed the clutch lever in while everything was apart and I was taking down time to install the front pm brakes / swap handle bar controls.
Do I have to drain the trans in order to pop the side cover off and reset the ball/ ramp??

edit: she’s getting drained anyway. Fresh fluids all around.
No, not required. The trans side cover will come off wether there is fluid in there or not. It will be messy if the fluid is not drained before removing the cover.
 
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Discussion Starter #22
Reset the balls in the ramps but without fail, the snap ring pliers slipped and when the snap ring slapped open it cracked the edge of the snap ring groove right off. The side toward the cable. It flew a good 5 ft but I found it and all I could do was shake my head and laugh. Like come on, really? So now I ordered up a new cover, gasket, snap ring, and I got the muller power clutch ramps also..has shorter faster ramps to make clutching faster and easier - supposedly.
I assembled the cover and oem ramps temporarily just to see if the clutch was functioning properly and it is indeed. I just don’t trust the snap ring grove to hold with a .5” piece broken off so I get to take it apart again on Friday when the order gets delivered.
Waiting on that and I got 2 front brake lines coming because I’m never dealing with a junction on the triple tree leaking again. Double line banjo at the master w/ one line going to each caliper. 2 lines total. With the primary buttoned up I’m almost done this project until I break something else lol....
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Okayyy.
Vtwin Chrome Transmission Side Cover : part # 17-9846 clean as a whistle fit great.
Genuine James Clutch Release Gasket :
part # 15-1230 the one with orange silicone on both sides
Mueller Motorcycle Power Clutch : part # 67-010-0 fits into an oem replacement cover and works like a charm. My only concern is that since the ramps are faster my friction zone has shrunk accordingly. I’ll find out soon.
Joker Machine Billet Derby Cover : part # 921017C nice piece to replace my beat up old one that refused to seal.
Genuine James Derby Cover Seal Kit : part # 25416-70-DL this is a metal gasket that is coated in rubber. I’m a fan. Also comes with the same type of rubber covered metal washers for the derby bolts.

With the bike all sealed up and no more drips or leaks, in the trans or primary i have to align the motor. The front mount bolted up as it should when I replaced the hardware with arp. The top motor mount is about 3/4 of a bolt off leaning toward the primary side.
Is this due to the swingarm bearings now holding the back of the motor the way it should be? Or the opposite ?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Happy to report no leaks or drips of any kind upon start up on the trans / primary side. Motors aligned vertically according to my trusty inclinometer. Removed the seat, leveled the bike across the frame rails then checked level at the rear rotor vs the front rotor and between all three they’re within .5 of a degree. That’s good enough for me. Lifted the tank via removing rear bolts, extended the helm to have the bolt fall through the hole and then locked down the top mount helm joint. with measurements from the pivot shaft as well as the length of axle adjusters, the tire is square in the swingarm. Gave the belt a good 45* twist and seems right (I’ll get a belt tension tool soon - don’t need another trans leak) so I fired up the bike and let it run with a loose glidepro front mount. Started to rain so I packed it in. Tomorrow I’ll align the left - right on the front helm and then lock down the glide pro.
She puked about a detergent cap full of oil upon warming up which I expected as it’s been about a year since I last started it. Got some amsoil 20w50 and their filter which I’ll do tomorrow as well. Along with some new shock proof. Then I’m back to riding.

cheers everyone.
 

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It is curious why someone would leave that lockplate and screw off.
There was no lockplate on the OP`s bike, the factory put a screw into the sprocket, thinking the head of the screw would stop the nut from backing off (this setup didn`t work, the nut would come loose and as it turned backwards it would just shear the head of the allen screw right off).

Found this thread a bit late, but I would like to throw in my two cents worth, maybe help the next guy.

The OP has an `88 model year bike, and it still has the original front belt sprocket, spacer and seal.

If the inner primary cover is removed for any reason (on a `94 or earlier machine), I recommend upgrading to the latest design parts on the front sprocket (aka belt pulley).

The MOCO upgraded the front sprocket, nut, lock, spacer and oil seal in mid `94.

This was done because the sprocket nut had a bad habit of coming loose (as I said earlier, the nut would back off and shear the head of the allen screw right off).

Once the nut and sprocket came loose it would not take long for the splines to be destroyed, usually on the sprocket, but not uncommonly on the main drive gear also.

The new sprocket is .250" thicker at the splined area.

To compensate for the thicker sprocket, the spacer length was reduced to .600".

The new spacer also has a larger outside diameter, this was done to give better support to the sprocket (the old sprocket would wobble on the old narrow spacer).

Since the spacer OD was changed, the big oil seal also had to be changed.

A lockplate with 2 screws is used on the latest setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
There was no lockplate on the OP`s bike, the factory put a screw into the sprocket, thinking the head of the screw would stop the nut from backing off (this setup didn`t work, the nut would come loose and as it turned backwards it would just shear the head of the allen screw right off).

Found this thread a bit late, but I would like to throw in my two cents worth, maybe help the next guy.

The OP has an `88 model year bike, and it still has the original front belt sprocket, spacer and seal.

If the inner primary cover is removed for any reason (on a `94 or earlier machine), I recommend upgrading to the latest design parts on the front sprocket (aka belt pulley).

The MOCO upgraded the front sprocket, nut, lock, spacer and oil seal in mid `94.

This was done because the sprocket nut had a bad habit of coming loose (as I said earlier, the nut would back off and shear the head of the allen screw right off).

Once the nut and sprocket came loose it would not take long for the splines to be destroyed, usually on the sprocket, but not uncommonly on the main drive gear also.

The new sprocket is .250" thicker at the splined area.

To compensate for the thicker sprocket, the spacer length was reduced to .600".

The new spacer also has a larger outside diameter, this was done to give better support to the sprocket (the old sprocket would wobble on the old narrow spacer).

Since the spacer OD was changed, the big oil seal also had to be changed.

A lockplate with 2 screws is used on the latest setup.
This will officially be in the back of my (very dense) head every time I ride it now lol. I suppose next time I gotta go that deep I’ll be swapping for the newer style pulley, spacer and seal. Hopefully not for a long time though!
 

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I suppose next time I gotta go that deep I’ll be swapping for the newer style pulley, spacer and seal.
Here are the Factory instructions for the upgraded sprocket components.

They used to have a kit with all the parts in it, I think it is still available, otherwise you will need to just go through the parts manual, if you order parts for a `95 model or later you will be fine.
 

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