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Discussion Starter #41
Here's both axle blocks after I got the axle reliefs elongated in both of them. After I got them all cut out I decided the remains weren't to heavy. I bobbed about 3/8" of the rear end of the blocks after taking this pic. In the 2nd pic I'm cutting the 3/16" radius on one of the corners. After I cut down aways I saw that my radius was taking away support area for the axle washer however it was on the side which was slightly narrower. I didn't get my 1" holes perfectly centered. They're off by about .015" to maybe .020". There's still about a .125" flat to support my axle washer on the narrow side and that should be sufficient since the other side has even more surface area.
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Discussion Starter #42
Radii Completed
Here I've finished cutting all 8 3/16" radii in the axle blocks. I also cut 1/2" chamfers on the rear ends of the blocks to help save more weight. I still have to cut some 3/16" radii on the two swingarm stubbs and chamfer the weld joints where the axle blocks and the swingarm stubs butt together.

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Discussion Starter #44
Here I've still got my 3/16" corner rounder cutter set up and I'm getting ready to cut off that square nub which is all that's left of the FXR's old shock mounts and belt guard supports. The second pic is after I've finished the op.

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Discussion Starter #45
In the first pic I've changed my set up and have my 90 degree V-cutter set up to put a 45 degree welding chamfer on the rear of my swing arm stubs. The second pic shows the swingarm stub before the op. The last pic shows the swingarm after the op.

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Discussion Starter #46
I'll have to install the chamfers on the swingarm's vertical corners by hand with a file or Dremel tool because the swingarm is too wide to set up vertically in my mill.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Here I've got my swingarm stubs chamfered. I went ahead and used my file instead of a Dremel rotor so it would make a more even cut. I tried to leave a .010"-.015" flat so there'll be something for the axle blocks to bottom out on instead of a sharp edge.
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Discussion Starter #48
Chamfering Axle Blocks
In the first pic I'm chamfering my axle block. I had to use a slightly different setup here because of the shape of the axle block and the step in it's geometry. There's a big bolt on the bottom of the V-cutter so I can't get the cutter in as close to the work like I could on the swingarm stub. In the second pic I've finished the chamfering of the axle blocks. Again I tried to leave a small flat in the corners for when the axle blocks and the swingarm stubs butt together.

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Discussion Starter #50
Actually my mill is an Index. It's very similar in layout to a Bridgeport.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Here I'm cutting a .250" wide, 1.375" long weld slot. In the second pic I've finished my cuts. I'm going to put four more of these cuts in the vertical surfaces of the swingarm stubs. I think this will give me enough support on my axle blocks in addition to the weld all the way around the blocks on the chamfered surfaces. I have nightmares about my axle blocks breaking off during a bad bump! Once I forgot to tighten the rear axle nut on my old FLH Bagger. I was returning to E'town from Louisville and all of a sudden my back end felt like it had turned to mush! I pulled over onto the shoulder and low & behold my axle had backed halfway out of the wheel! I've never made that mistake again!

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Rube Goldberg Setup Gets 'er Done!
The first pic is my Rube Goldberg mill setup. But a machinist has to use what works! My swingarm is almost 12 inches wide but my red angle plate is only 8 inches tall so I had to adapt and overcome! But it worked and that's what counts! Having a good rigid setup before you start machining is how you finish a job and not screw it up! The second pic shows the swingarm stub with the slots in the vertical section cut out. Next I have to see if I can get the axle blocks to go in the swingarm stubs. That will probably take lots of hand work. Plus I've still got to fab my shock mounts and rear belt guard mount.
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Discussion Starter #53
Here I've got my axle blocks inserted into the swingarm stubbs. I had to radius in the corners a bit before they'd go in and I only had to use my Snap On rubber hammer to get them seated. I was afraid they wouldn't go in all the way and then I'd have to get out my big 3 pound steel persuader but it wasn't necessary. Tomorrow I'll try to weld them together. I'll see how that goes. I've got a Hobart arc welder. If my welds don't look so good I'll take the swingarm up to my paint and body guy. He's got a heliarc.
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Looks gorilla strong.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Here I'm tack welding the fork assembly together. After I machined the slots the tips of the rear end flared out slightly so I had to clamp them back in place with C-clamps before I did the main welding. In the second pic I've completely welded the right axle block to the swingarm stub. My stick welding was a bit rough I'm afraid. I was a bit out of practice. But the welds should clean up nicely. I checked the swingarm after the welding and it still looked like the axle block was still straight like before I started.
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Discussion Starter #56
Alan S said: "Looks gorilla strong."

I sure hope it is! In addition to the bead going all the way around the swingarm tube I cut the quarter inch grooves 1.375" long to give it additional strength. I'm still paranoid about my rear end falling off when I hit a bad bump after the incident where my axle came halfway out of the wheel! Bad news that was!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Here I've got both axle blocks welded on. My welding's kind of rough and I've got a few dips in the beads. However I think my welds will be plenty strong for this job. I'll machine these down as flat as I can and then decide if I need any touch up welds.
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Discussion Starter #59
Here I'm machining down upper weld on my right swingarm fork with .750" carbide cutter. I used 6013 mild steel welding rod so it really wasn't necessary to use carbide. Hi speed steel would have sufficed but I was too lazy to change out my cutter. This surface has to be fairly flat and uniform since I have to weld my shock and belt guard mounts to it. I did notice slight mismatches in the axle block and swingarm stubbs but no more then about .010" when the machining was finished. I can live with that. When you weld two pieces of steel together it's virtually impossible to prevent all warpage and bowing.

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Discussion Starter #60
Here I just started machining down my vertical welds on the right swingarm fork. Again there a was a slight mismatch of about .010". No big deal on a Harley. These inboard surfaces need to be fairly straight and parallel because they clamp up on your outer wheel spacers or brake caliper bracket on the left side of a big twin Harley.
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