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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
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Redneck Engineered Cleveblock Pressor

This here's my home made Redneck Engineered Cleveblock Pressor. The main ingredients are the piece of 5/8-11 allthread rod I bought at Ace Hardware and two 5/8-11 nuts. I also had to turn down two 5/8" aluminum disks, one of which actually goes up in the cleveblock collar and forces it out. As you can see it's working but I've got to turn down on my lathe a small bushing to force the cleveblock the rest of the way out of the collar tomorrow. I'll post a picture of all my pressor tools when I get this job done just in case any of you gearheads wish to attempt this feat to refurbish your FXR or FLT swingarm. I think Jims or some other company makes the pressor tool but it's fairly expensive and I don't ever plan to do this job again! Also it's better to attempt this on a hydraulic press if you have the proper tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Got 'er Done!
After I fabbed the extension bushing it was a piece of cake. Actually there were some minor problems but nothing too
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great. Now that I've gotten the cleveblocks out of the swingarm I can start my swingarm fork engineering change in earnest.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Redneck Engineered Cleveblock removal tools
Here's a pic of my home made Redneck engineered cleveblock removal tools. The 5/8-11 allthread rod is the key. It doesn't have to be this long. You can bob it if you wish. I've written on 5/8" thick aluminum disks what the diameter has to be. The smaller round one [1.690" Dia.] has to be small enough to go inside the cleveblock collar and force it out. The larger one with the 2.010" Dia. has to brace against the outside of the opposite cleveblock collar as you force it out of the swingarm. The relief notching is because on the inside of the swingarm once you get past the collar Harley's reinforced the swingarm so it's not symmetrical on the inside. You need two 5/8-11 nuts. The extension collar I made is to force the cleveblock the final distance out of the cleveblock collar. I made it just a little over 1.625" long. The aluminum disks and the extension collar all have a 5/8" clearance hole in them. You don't actually need those washers. I opened up some 1/2" washers to 5/8" so the nuts wouldn't gall the aluminum disks. If anyone has any questions send me a PM.
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Cleveblock Alternatives
After doing this cleveblock removal I've become doubtful I should replace them. I have an old CCI replacement cleveblock kit but it was made in Taiwan and I'm doubtful about it's quality. Also I know that Harley abandoned these cleveblocks and went to a new system that doesn't use them. One uses a replacement delrin cleveblock and I think Harley now uses a ball bearing replacement. Does anybody have any insight on which system is the best?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Bobbed!
I did it! I bobbed four inches off the end of my FXR swingarm fork. Now there's no going back. However I do have a spare FXR swingarm just in case I screw this up. I can go back to stock if I have to. There was also some sheet metal from the shock mounts that was beyond the 4" which I machined flat. I didn't want to go beyond four inches because I'm heeding Theromodyne's warning and trying not to add on too much unsprung wait with my engineering change.
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Discussion Starter #26
Here I've got the swingarm fork back in the vice on my Index Mill. I'm cutting both forks as close as I can to the same length. I set up my angle plate on the right side of the vice to locate the ends of the fork. This worked out fine as the two fork ends seemed to be within about .010" which is close enough for this job.



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Discussion Starter #27
Machining down Axle Blocks
I sawed off two chunks off my 1" HRS plate. Then I sawed them length ways. This stuff was a lot harder then I thought it would be. I ruined my 1" cutter which you see here and had to go back to using my fly cutter with a carbide tool bit. It does cut a far wider swath then the 1" end mill but I can only plunge down on each cut about .005" which makes for a long job! I hope I don't have any trouble with this steel when I try to weld it.
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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Axle Block Fabrication
Got the axle blocks machined down to height and machined off to length. There was some problem with the flame hardening on some of the surfaces because of the plasma cutter which cut the piece out of a 1" hot rolled steel plate. Dimensions of these pieces are 1.00"x1.75"x 5.400". More to come!


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Discussion Starter #30
Alan S asked:"Is that for a 1911?"
I was wondering if anyone was going to ask about that! Yes, it's a Springfield Armory stainless M1911A1 slide. I'm into both guns and motorcycles. I'm getting ready to upgrade the sites on it with a Kensight LPA rear and a Novak style red dot optic front. Here's the link to my post on my site upgrade: 1911 Sights Upgrade - 1911Forum
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Here I'm machining down the axle block. I just went down .120" the wall thickness of the FXR's swingarm fork.
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Discussion Starter #33
Here I've finished the relief on the axle block on all four faces. That's .120" off all four faces a distance of 1.500".
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Discussion Starter #34
Here you'll get an idea of what I'm trying to do. Unfortunately the wall thickness on the inside of the swingarm forks isn't uniform plus there appear to be little tiny radii in the internal fork corners so this will take a lot of hand work before the axle blocks will fit into the forks.
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Discussion Starter #35
I found my 1" taper shank drill bit. I'm not sure I can use it on my mill to drill out the new axle mounts. It may be too long. There's only so much vertical travel on my Index Mill and I've had other jobs where I couldn't lower the table low enough so that the cutter could do it's job. MSC does have a short 1" drill with a 1/2" shank for sale but I'd prefer to use the taper shank drill if I can. I can also plunge down with my 1" cutter with the table locked in place. I'm not sure how that will work either. Drills are actually much better for making holes then end mills! Of course once I get the 1" holes bored I still have to connect them together with end mill work but that will be the easy part.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
1" Drill at the Ready!
Ha! It's going to work! I've just set my mill up with the 1" taper shank drill in the quill and over the work in my large grinder vice and I've got enough clearance! I'm going to drill a 1/2" pilot hole first to make things easier for the 1"er
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Discussion Starter #37
In this pic I'm drilling out a 1" hole. I had to slow my mill down to 355 RPM. It was set at 600 RPM and that would have burned up my 1" drill bit! As you can see in this shot I already drilled a 1/2" pilot hole so drilling the 1" hole was a piece of cake!
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Discussion Starter #39
Here I've changed the setup again and I'm connecting the two 1" holes with a long 4 flute 1/2" end mill.
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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Here I've completed my slot elongation on one axle block. As you can see my 1"
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axle goes in the slot. However there are some tight spots so I'll have to go in with a Dremel drum and relieve them. I got a late start so I was only able to finish one.
 
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