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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried every hex key I had, including the ball head keys and I could not manage to remove the front inner lifter screw on the front lifter cover. Any advice would be appreciated. I do not want to remove the cylinder. The hex key makes contact with the cylinder and I am unable to finish removing the bolt. I would buy a special tool in order to make the job easier.

Thanks,
Haywood
99 Dyna Wide Glide TC 88
 

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Nice to ride again :-)
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JVINESETT said:
I tried every hex key I had, including the ball head keys and I could not manage to remove the front inner lifter screw on the front lifter cover. Any advice would be appreciated. I do not want to remove the cylinder. The hex key makes contact with the cylinder and I am unable to finish removing the bolt. I would buy a special tool in order to make the job easier.

Thanks,
Haywood
99 Dyna Wide Glide TC 88
Is it a tool "reach" problem ? As I just went through this as many others have it is just a PITA, no two ways about it. You just have to do those "baby" turns to get it out, also the rubber band and paper clip to hold the push rod tubes give you a little more space there.

Or are you saying it just is too tight. If that is the case try and spray the threads and turn it in a little to tighten it, then turn a little more out, then back in and so forth, you do not want that aggravation of it snapping.
 

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GottaRideS'more
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278 Posts
Hex bit and a reversable 1/4 closed-ended ratchet wrench, and then on the outside bolts a ball-ended hex key if it doesn't loosen up before the bit hits the cooling fins.

I emphasize reversable because there are tight situations where, if you're not thinking, a non-reversable combination of tools will get you outright stuck, and you'll have to hack something off. Just always remember to leave yourself an "out".

I've done the covers with chromed bolts on three bikes, and they sure are a PITA - especially the inside bolts. The bit and ratchet makes it much easier.

ALSO: Always put a towel over the trans and surrounding areas, covering all the little nooks and crannies. Even with a magnetic probe, I've lost a bit or two before I smartened-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lifter cover screw

Thanks everybody.

I ended up grinding about 3/8 inch of the hex key and loosening the bolt. I then used a ball end hex key to finish.

Haywood
99 Wide Glide TC88
 

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Use a hex bit and turn it with a 1/4 open ended wrench.
Yeah, 15 YEARS LATER, BUT THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTS. Well I ordered a(MAC TOOLS) Universal Socket with 3/16" hex stud, AND 2 short-shouldered 3/16" steel allen wrench, because I surely didn't want to break off the screw. I tried some long-shouldered allen 3/16" wrench and it was tough as hxxl. The yellow locktight that S&S put on there is really some tough shxt! I had bought S&S lifter cuffs and I could NOT get the lifter block screws out. I put the Lifters(Woods-Alpha) in from the bottom, since I was changing cams(again). But, I like the idea of use a short 3/16' hex bit, with a 1/4" wrench(trying to stay low on the bolt). Damn Harley? Why would you put PLASTIC lifter cuffs in there? WOW!

But, than V-twin, got a lot of good info here, Thanks
 
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