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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read some stories on this website and read in my service manual about having to insert a 5/16 inch piece of cardboard when taking off my front brake lever assembly or risk breaking off some little plastic brake light switch part??

Getting ready to install my new chubby bars and just wondering why this is necessary to do?? Why dont they break these at the factory when installing them if they are such a pain?? I am sure I will have a clearer idea on why when I dissasemble it, but wondering if anyone can give this rookie a clearer picture on this??

Not to get off topic, but when I feed the wires through my new bars, do I unplug them under the tank or at the grips?? Thanks Rick
 

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I'm Paid Up...
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Unplug them from under the tank. Then you'll need to disassemble the connector so you can run the wires thru the bars. Write a diagram of the color coded wires before disassembly. The brake light switch is inside the switch housing, but the actuator for that switch is on the brake lever. When the switch in depressed, the light is off. Watch as you remove it, it'll be clear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
DR_DEUCE said:
Unplug them from under the tank. Then you'll need to disassemble the connector so you can run the wires thru the bars. Write a diagram of the color coded wires before disassembly. The brake light switch is inside the switch housing, but the actuator for that switch is on the brake lever. When the switch in depressed, the light is off. Watch as you remove it, it'll be clear.
Thanx Drdeuce, but what breaks off when its incorrectly disassembled/assembled ???
 

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minivan said:
Thanx Drdeuce, but what breaks off when its incorrectly disassembled/assembled ???
The end of the switch is a small plastic button. You could either break it off or tear the rubber boot that seals the switch. You can easily see it....Just push the brake lever back a bit and look into the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
xxxflhrci said:
The end of the switch is a small plastic button. You could either break it off or tear the rubber boot that seals the switch. You can easily see it....Just push the brake lever back a bit and look into the housing.
OK I got ya... Does the "shim" prevent this from happening?? Or do I still need to be careful.... I have seen some posts on here from people who have been real careful and still have broken it......
 

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minivan said:
OK I got ya... Does the "shim" prevent this from happening?? Or do I still need to be careful.... I have seen some posts on here from people who have been real careful and still have broken it......
The shim should prevent damage.
 

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Could never figure out what the shim does :huh: . Just take care {as always} and understand what you are doing. I never had a problem not using it. -2$en#e-
 

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Ironbutt
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minivan said:
I have read some stories on this website and read in my service manual about having to insert a 5/16 inch piece of cardboard when taking off my front brake lever assembly or risk breaking off some little plastic brake light switch part??

Getting ready to install my new chubby bars and just wondering why this is necessary to do?? Why dont they break these at the factory when installing them if they are such a pain?? I am sure I will have a clearer idea on why when I dissasemble it, but wondering if anyone can give this rookie a clearer picture on this??

Not to get off topic, but when I feed the wires through my new bars, do I unplug them under the tank or at the grips?? Thanks Rick
Just put a piece of cardboard between the lever and the housing like the manual says - takes like 5 seconds - it will prevent damage to the switch. As for the wires, you can't disconnect the wires at the switch housing. The connections are located under the fuel tank. Just lift the tank a couple of inches and you'll be able to access them. The wires will pull out of the connectors but it's a PITA. You'll need a pick or something similiar to do it. The manual explains it pretty well.
 

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Yes, the connectors can be a real PITA *TIBS* . I've found it quicker to cut & splice the wires {at least 7" from the connector for working room}. Do your very best splicing, soldering and insulating. -2$en#e-
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
miles to go said:
Just put a piece of cardboard between the lever and the housing like the manual says - takes like 5 seconds - it will prevent damage to the switch. As for the wires, you can't disconnect the wires at the switch housing. The connections are located under the fuel tank. Just lift the tank a couple of inches and you'll be able to access them. The wires will pull out of the connectors but it's a PITA. You'll need a pick or something similiar to do it. The manual explains it pretty well.
When I lift the tank, will I need to do more than just unbolt the front and rear tank bolts?? I mean can I lift the tank up enough without having to remove or disconnect the fuel line or crossover line The service manual does not tell me much on this in detail... thanks
 

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Ironbutt
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xxxflhrci said:
Just take the tank off. It's a lot better than trying to prop it up, then messing around and scratching it.
I dissagree. Taking the tank off is much more involved than just lifting the rear. All you need to do is unbolt the rear of the tank and raise it a couple of inches. You can put a block of wood under the rear of the tank to hold it there. I always cover the tank [and fenders if necessary] with a thick towel when working on the bike - never know when that wrench is going to slip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
miles to go said:
I dissagree. Taking the tank off is much more involved than just lifting the rear. All you need to do is unbolt the rear of the tank and raise it a couple of inches. You can put a block of wood under the rear of the tank to hold it there. I always cover the tank [and fenders if necessary] with a thick towel when working on the bike - never know when that wrench is going to slip.
Miles, I think I will give your idea a try.. Worse scenario is taking it all the way off if need be.. Lots of towels to cover everything......
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, finally decided to tackle this..

The tank does not want to lift more than about an inch, far from giving me enough room underneath to get at the wires..

Think I will unbolt the front also and try to lift it that way..

Am I doing something wrong???
 
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