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Discussion Starter #1
I wonder if this gizmo might actually have merit. The breather line is long enough that it could be routed out of sight into one of the bike's cavities.

Then I was thinking, something similar could be made by splicing a T into the stock rubber vent line with a short line and filter attached. Or do away with the stock rubber vent line and just vent off the cam chest with a short vent line and a filter and plug the cam chest hole.

Feuling Oil Tank Breather Kit

• Stop dipstick blowout
• Releases power robbing pressures from oil tank & crank case, reduces blow - by
• Promotes proper oil flow and oil tank function
• Braided steel lines & stainless steel fittings, breather line is coated with clear pvc
• Lifetime warranted breather element
• Available in stainless or black finish
• Gasket, thread sealant, necessary hardware and installation instructions included
• Dyna models require removal of the transmission/oil tank cover. Early FLT models require removal of dipstick housing – new gaskets are supplied.
• Made in the U.S.A.

http://feulingparts.com/wp/feuling/v-twin/harley/oil-tank-breather-kits/oil-tank-breather-kits/
 

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I will be curious the comments.
I have often thought about doing this before the product arrived but wasn't sure of the merit or if it may mess with the breather balance and the head breathing. I have drilled the rocker covers and done a similar pressure relief setup with a small PCV valve which to me would be the prefered method and then a hidden plastic insert at the end of the hose similar to what GM uses on the older cars for a differential vent line.
All bets are off for using this Feuling product on 07 and 08 FL models as they got rid of the external lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
nw_guy4_fun said:
I will be curious the comments.
I have often thought about doing this before the product arrived but wasn't sure of the merit or if it may mess with the breather balance and the head breathing. I have drilled the rocker covers and done a similar pressure relief setup with a small PCV valve which to me would be the prefered method and then a hidden plastic insert at the end of the hose similar to what GM uses on the older cars for a differential vent line.
All bets are off for using this Feuling product on 07 and 08 FL models as they got rid of the external lines.
The 99-01 model touring bikes had the vent line from the cam chest to the top of the transmission. Then in 2002 Harley vented over to the oil filler spout from the cam chest and gave the transmission its own vent. Feuling has a kit that vents off the oil filler spout for the 99-01 bikes.
 

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I have to give this some thought, it's always good to vent any air building in the system but with the touring oil tanks your running oil in the engine with a siphon principle. The Softail is gravity feed so I don't see a problem venting that one....but I have second thoughts about loosing the siphon effect of the touring models, plus these oil tanks have adaquate room for the little pressures the TwinCam produce out side the engine......just a thought!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Considering the hose from oil filler spout to the cam chest is to vent the oil tank pressure into the cam chest, adding an additional vent is seems unnecessary. So maybe the hose could be done away with and a vent mounted just off the oil filler spout.

R&R Cycle with their new cam plate looks to address the crankcase pressure relief by venting off the side of the cam plate.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35962;image
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35963;image
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35965;image

I did find this post from awhile back.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39495&highlight=vent+line

06-29-2004, 08:49 AM Ed Y Retired Navy - MCPO
Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Foxworth, MS Posts: 4,580

One of the theories behind this suggestion about running oil a little low, has to do with level in the oil pan (touring bikes). When accelerating or going up a fairly steep hill the oil in the tank sloshes to the back of the tank and stays there while you're accelerating, it will flood the vent line going back to the crankcase. You'll notice on the newer models, they have a vent line that runs from the cam chest back to the dipstick spout.
 

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I made my own. Used a later model oil filler and plumbed the vent into the fitting. Keep the OEM vent on the early models that runs from engine case to the top of tranny. Running 1/2 quart low and no oil out the vent (yet) or out the breathers. Using 60W Amsoil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
DEVILDOG said:
I made my own. Used a later model oil filler and plumbed the vent into the fitting. Keep the OEM vent on the early models that runs from engine case to the top of tranny. Running 1/2 quart low and no oil out the vent (yet) or out the breathers. Using 60W Amsoil.
Devildog

Good idea! Your bike must be a pre 2002. I see the transmission vent line you made and the stock vent line from the cam chest to the top of the transmission is there. So a vent line from the cam chest is necessary?
 

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Yes, it's a 2001. I kept the cam chest vent line because I had it done already. Used SS fittings and tubing and small K&N filter.
 

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BaggerDad said:
Considering the hose from oil filler spout to the cam chest is to vent the oil tank pressure into the cam chest, adding an additional vent is seems unnecessary. So maybe the hose could be done away with and a vent mounted just off the oil filler spout.

R&R Cycle with their new cam plate looks to address the crankcase pressure relief by venting off the side of the cam plate.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35962;image
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35963;image
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14726.0;attach=35965;image

I did find this post from awhile back.

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39495&highlight=vent+line

06-29-2004, 08:49 AM Ed Y Retired Navy - MCPO
Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Foxworth, MS Posts: 4,580

One of the theories behind this suggestion about running oil a little low, has to do with level in the oil pan (touring bikes). When accelerating or going up a fairly steep hill the oil in the tank sloshes to the back of the tank and stays there while you're accelerating, it will flood the vent line going back to the crankcase. You'll notice on the newer models, they have a vent line that runs from the cam chest back to the dipstick spout.
Even though that is true, it does not completely prevent the cap from popping out. Mine does it almost "on Command" if I run two up and nail it in first gear. By the time I'm gettin frisky in second I will be covered in oil. I do make sure the oil is below the full mark too. (Have not tried it 1 quart low) I wonder if I also have excessive blow by? That would seem to exacerbate the problem, agree?
 

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My experience

In theory it looked like the panacea, but in practice it didn't work that well for me. Lots of oil leaking from the T splice, and even more oil coming out at the filter line. I had to change it back for the old venting line. No troubles with the original setup so far. My bike is a 2002 Softail 103" w/ Feuling oil pump and cam plate.

Ride hard,

Tacho
 

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HDMD88 said:
I have to give this some thought, it's always good to vent any air building in the system but with the touring oil tanks your running oil in the engine with a siphon principle. The Softail is gravity feed so I don't see a problem venting that one....but I have second thoughts about loosing the siphon effect of the touring models, plus these oil tanks have adaquate room for the little pressures the TwinCam produce out side the engine......just a thought!
I have struggled with this question. I guess because there are so many interactive dependant systems operating in theoretical balance. Of course when the cubic inches are bumped 8-20% commonly then the internal balance is altered. The umbrellas under the rocker covers certainly cycle due to the crankcase pressure pulses, right? Besides a siphon feed which in theory would be aided by crankcase pressure, there is the all important scavenge and in theory I would think on the FL or Dyna the pressure would aid in evacuation. On the con side the ring seal would benefit with less crankcase pressure.:hmmm:
There are a few folks I would be curious what they had to say on the topic, Ron Dickey, and John Sachs, just because I happen to know from some past experience with them they have some very informative views on the topic.
 

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nw_guy4_fun said:
On the con side the ring seal would benefit with less crankcase pressure.:hmmm:
That is something I have not thought of yet. Very interesting..... definitelty gonna make me think.

I had an R&R plate, but ended up returning it because it would not work with a FatCat on my RG. Reggie was quite accomodating and sent one of the thinner cover plates, but it still would not clear the rear headpipe.

Having removed the R&R plate and having been convinced that relieving pressure from the back side of the decending pistons was a "hot ticket", I installed a modified version of the Fueling vent. I have been running it for 1500+ miles & seen no ill effects, no oil leakage, etc... but, at a minimum, I have to think this could be bad for ring seating.... if not more....????...

hmmmmm..... :hmmm:
 

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Phil
ME BAD
I meant that improved ring seal would be a benefit by allowing the crankcase pressure vent. The other issues I mentioned were what I would percieve as cons. I would guess that if we could make negative pressure (race car stuff) the oil consumption and ring seal would increase. 0 pressure VS positive pressure certainly mus benefit sealing some. Will take some research for more information. I am still concerned about the HD factory venting design. On the EVOS we just changed the vent valve a little to compensate for changes.
 
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