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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just curious...the bike is an 05 FXDi. I installed an AN Big Sucker and set of Khrome Werks slip-ons this past winter. After this was done, I installed a basic SERT map to get me up and running. I FINALLY got a chance to get out there and road test it (it's about damn time). The first thing that the wife and I noticed, was a significant increase in vibrations over stock. I told her this was normal. Now I'd like to know if it actually is. There's more buzzing in the bars, seat, and pegs...basically all over. After the ride, everything looked as though it was still tight on the bike, no loose parts...so is this normal?

Now for my comments on how the bike sounds...I love it, plain and simple.
Low, deep rumble, and fairly loud, I hope it doesn't piss off the neighbors (er, or at least not too much, they can get over it).

:woohoo: Can't wait to go home tonight to ride, I thought about riding to work today, but it was only 23 degrees (but sunny).

Thanks to all the helped me pick out this set-up...It freakin' rocks.
-Clint
 

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Cdouthitt said:
I'm just curious...the bike is an 05 FXDi. I installed an AN Big Sucker and set of Khrome Werks slip-ons this past winter. After this was done, I installed a basic SERT map to get me up and running. I FINALLY got a chance to get out there and road test it (it's about damn time). The first thing that the wife and I noticed, was a significant increase in vibrations over stock. I told her this was normal. Now I'd like to know if it actually is. There's more buzzing in the bars, seat, and pegs...basically all over. After the ride, everything looked as though it was still tight on the bike, no loose parts...so is this normal?

Now for my comments on how the bike sounds...I love it, plain and simple.
Low, deep rumble, and fairly loud, I hope it doesn't piss off the neighbors (er, or at least not too much, they can get over it).

:woohoo: Can't wait to go home tonight to ride, I thought about riding to work today, but it was only 23 degrees (but sunny).

Thanks to all the helped me pick out this set-up...It freakin' rocks.
-Clint
I would guess that the map you loaded has the cylinders more out of trim with each other. When you get them making the same power, it smoothes out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Guess I'm still confused...what do you mean by "trim"? The map that I uploaded is just the standard one for the 1450, AC and slip-ons.

I plan on doing the following this weekend (posted previously), hopefully this will help:

Advanced Tuning Mode:
Main AFR table - Take the cells in red that are at 14.5 - decrement to 14.2.

VE Tables - Add 2 to all the cells in the first 2 columns in front and rear

Decel Enleanment Table - decrement all cells .25, but don't go below 0.00

Thanks!
 

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vibration

It would seem to me that changing the exhaust would change the weight hanging of the engine, which would in turn change the vibration characteristics of the engine/transmission/exhaust combo. The rubber mounts are designed around particular specs and you've changed those specs, hence the feeling of more vibration. I noticed the same thing when I changed the exhaust on my 05 Dyna. Confirmed it by putting the stock exhaust back on temporarily - vibration went back to stock levels.
 

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Cdouthitt said:
Guess I'm still confused...what do you mean by "trim"? The map that I uploaded is just the standard one for the 1450, AC and slip-ons.

I plan on doing the following this weekend (posted previously), hopefully this will help:

Advanced Tuning Mode:
Main AFR table - Take the cells in red that are at 14.5 - decrement to 14.2.

VE Tables - Add 2 to all the cells in the first 2 columns in front and rear

Decel Enleanment Table - decrement all cells .25, but don't go below 0.00

Thanks!
Trimming the cylinders means bringing them into equilibrium from a power output point of view. If they are out of trim, it means they are not making the same amount of power. When in this condition, the motor will vibrate more.

So, let's be specific.

You loaded map 127HO103? is this correct?
Configuration: 1450 SE A/C & Mufflers
File Name: 105HO103-D0.MT6, 127HO103-B0.MT6
Components:
• SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99B
• SE II Slip-Fit Mufflers P/N 80349-00A or 80258-99A

First, that is a different map than what came stock in your ECU. So there is a reason. Second, you put on different parts than what that calibration is for. That's another reason. Back when my motor was 88" and I changed to various slip-ons, I had to redial in the DFO I had at that time to compensate for the change. Different slip-on mufflers can have different flow sand back pressures than what that calibration was for. Meaning, it affects the cylinder fill and AFR. Now, with my 95" build, if I change anything in my setup, I have to go to the dyno with my tuner and re-sniff the AFR in each cylinder to see what is happening. The front & rear cylinders use very different VE tables. Go look at the map you loaded and you'll see the VE differences. This is done to trim the cylinders to each other.

Make sense to you now?

Lastly, the proposed changes you are going to make to your map via the SERT, unless you have it hooked up to a AFR sniffer and you are monitoring the changes, you are shooting in the dark.
 

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Before you go into the underworld of ECMs etc., check the installation of the mufflers/pipes. Loosen all clamps, bolts and flanges and tighten them up beginning with the pipe flanges and continuing with the support bracket and then finally the clamps that squeeze the muffles to the pipe. Do a check ride.

Rubber mounted engines are very sensitive to exhaust installation mistakes
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all for your responses...I'll report back later this weekend to let you know what I find...but for now F-it, I'm going riding.
 
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