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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all, new to group. Lot's of experience here for sure.
To the point: I ride a 99 FXSTC. Solo 100% of the time.
I have installed an SE air cleaner, exhaust, street ignition and thunder slide.
Rest is stock. Looking to do cam this winter.

Looking for mainly low to mid grunt off a light. I'm not often in the extreme RPM range. Some of the cams I'm considering are Andrews EV27 (seems to be an old favorite), EV3 or EV46. Also looking at Crane 310-2 or 316-2B.
Any others I should consider?

Any opinion or experience? Could I also upgrade to SE 10.0:1 pistons at the same time? All cams are "bolt ins" but I'm curious to know what impact the longer duration of the EV46 will have. What would the impact of increasing to 10.0:1 be on these selections? HD implies that the SE pistons are a drop in replacement that will "improve low end torque".

Any help in appreciated.
 

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Andrews 27 is a GREAT cam for what your looking for.You can have your heads milled .060 and will put you around 9.5 - 1 comp. Also install Manley valves {stock size} when you have the heads off. Andrews 23 is another good one.
 

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Got to agree with Silver Bullet.
The EV27 with 9.5:1 compression give great torque and power. Very ridable street cam. Flat torque curve from 2K up
EV46 would put the power band higher up and be less ridable on the street, but with 10:1 compression would work.
If you do any touring the EV27 is the better cam.
Milling the heads is the best way to get the compression you want.
Good luck and:welcome: to the forum.
 

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i've run ev 46 at 10.2 10.5 power to 6k if needed. everthing looks good except the thunderslide kit
 

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Just instaled the [email protected]& in my 96 EVO. Easy switch when you use the EZ install pusrods. Besure and change the cam bearing to the Torrington 138(now mad by Timken but still has the torrington markings). Pulls great from about 2000rpm. with good carb jetting and pipes
 

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rlpos said:
Just instaled the [email protected]& in my 96 EVO. Easy switch when you use the EZ install pusrods. Besure and change the cam bearing to the Torrington 138(now mad by Timken but still has the torrington markings). Pulls great from about 2000rpm. with good carb jetting and pipes
Is that a secret code for an EV27? :whistle:


Rclines,
Considering it is an FXSTC (smaller softail) and you say you ride solo all the time, I would go with a EV3. Rather than replacing the pistons with 10:1 I would measure the combustion chambers and mill the appropriate amount of the heads to achieve 9.75:1. The combustion chamber size varies considerably and by measuring them you may find that they could be matched better by machining slightly different amounts off each head, this depends on how much off they are. It might require opening up one combustion chamber before machining. I would retain the stock valves and do a good valve job also.

Whats the budget? How many miles are on the engine? There are more things you can do with a little more machining. Like tightening up the squish by correcting the deck height.

All this isn't very expensive but you must have a compentent machinist to do the work. If you want you can give Bean a call and he can explain in greater detail. 207-621-1001 during the day or 207-621-8089 in the evenings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all so far.
Bike is at 16K miles. Valves were worked at 12K to cure a smoking condition from a bad seal. Valves remain at stock. Would like to stay in the $600-700 for any work. Seems like shaving the heads .050-.060, stock valves and ev27 is the prefered reccomendation thus far. Is replacement of valves for strength considerations, with reseating, really appropriate at this time? If so could I just swap out or is full reseating again required? Reading between the lines it seems like the EV27 is a good choice but a slight compression boost (9.5 or 10.0) would also be a wise choice via head shave.

Opinion?

Thanks
 

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rclines said:
Thanks all so far.
Bike is at 16K miles. Valves were worked at 12K to cure a smoking condition from a bad seal. Valves remain at stock. Would like to stay in the $600-700 for any work. Seems like shaving the heads .050-.060, stock valves and ev27 is the prefered reccomendation thus far. Is replacement of valves for strength considerations, with reseating, really appropriate at this time? If so could I just swap out or is full reseating again required? Reading between the lines it seems like the EV27 is a good choice but a slight compression boost (9.5 or 10.0) would also be a wise choice via head shave.

Opinion?

Thanks
With only 16K on the engine, the heads should be in excellent shape. IMO, you need to measure the combustion chamber sizes before milling anything off the heads. They vary enough that you should do the math and mill the correct amount to achieve the CR desired. Replacement valves are not for strength, typically they are lighter. In a low cost performance upgrade, like what is being discussed here, it is not necessary. If the bike was a heavier softail like a Heritage, or you did more 2 up riding, I would also go with the EV27 recommendations but since that isn't the case I think you would benefit more from the EV3.
 

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I have a Wood W6H, but it was a lot of extra work and parts to accomodate the .590 lift. The W6 is .510 lift, I think. Should still have pretty strong low and mid range torque. I think Bob Wood may still recommend a bump in compression to really make that cam work. However, with such an early closing intake I'd think you'd be good with 9:1. Worth a look, I think.

Chilly
 

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rclines said:
Greetings all, new to group. Lot's of experience here for sure.
To the point: I ride a 99 FXSTC. Solo 100% of the time.
I have installed an SE air cleaner, exhaust, street ignition and thunder slide.
Rest is stock. Looking to do cam this winter.

Looking for mainly low to mid grunt off a light. I'm not often in the extreme RPM range. Some of the cams I'm considering are Andrews EV27 (seems to be an old favorite), EV3 or EV46. Also looking at Crane 310-2 or 316-2B.
Any others I should consider?

Any opinion or experience? Could I also upgrade to SE 10.0:1 pistons at the same time? All cams are "bolt ins" but I'm curious to know what impact the longer duration of the EV46 will have. What would the impact of increasing to 10.0:1 be on these selections? HD implies that the SE pistons are a drop in replacement that will "improve low end torque".

Any help in appreciated.
The EV27 is a great choice! I've been running one for quite a while and really like it! Lots of pulling power, especially with the Pro-Pipe I have installed. It was kinda weak at the low end when I was running 2-2's, though. Pipes will make a huge difference in usable torque. The EV46 is ok, but you will not have the low-end torque that you would have with a shorter duration cam like the EV27. The Woods W6 is also a good choice, from what I've heard. The duration numbers are about the same as the EV27, but it has slightly higher lift. If you had head work done, then this cam should work better. My heads have been reworked, so I'm switching to the W6H this winter. It has a much higher lift (.590) which will take advantage of the heads' better flow rate.

When choosing a cam, there are some things to remember.... How do you ride the bike? Do you want a lot of low-end "streetable" torque or more top end. You can't get both. Most riders want the torque down low, in the rpm range that they ride in the most (usually 2000-3500 rpm). If this is what you want, keep the duration under about 245 deg ( the lower the better), and go with as much lift as your heads will handle, look for a "bolt-in" cam and you'll be ok. You should be able to go with .510 and be safe. Any more than that and you will need to clay the pistons to check clearences. The EV27 is bolt-in. If you want the most top-end power, then go for long duration and high lift. Remember, with a Harley, torque is far more important than horsepower. Without torque to get it to the ground, high HP numbers are basically worthless.

You will also need adjustable pushrods. They make the EZ install types, which work well but are expensive, and they make "regular" adjustables. I use the regular S&S adjustables, which seems stronger (to me at least), but you have to loosen the rockers to install them. That's not a big deal, though.

If you want to boost compression, you might be better off keeping the stock pistons and shaving the heads. It'll perform better and it'll cost you a lot less, too. I was able to get mine to 9.8:1 doing this and by using the Cometic .030 head gaskets. I wouldn't go any higher than 10:1 CR or you may need compression releases and it will be subject to detonation. Mine only knocks slightly on very hot days when running two up. I should be able to eliminate that by tweaking the advance curve slightly. Something to screw around with this summer.....

I agree with Otto on the T-slide. IMHO, it's not worth the money and can actually hurt performance. I'm running an S&S Super E w/ the Yost Power Tube (to eliminate off-idle hesitation) and it runs great! Easy to tune and it's very reliable.

Good luck! :D
 

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Will you be doing the work yourself? If so you can bump compression and stay within your budget. If not then keep it simple with a cam upgrade. If only going with a cam swap, my vote goes to the Crane 310-2. More quiet than the Andrews, and a real kick in the seat.
 
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