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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone me out...?:confused:

I can't remember if the following is normal, or if I may have a problem...

After turing the key to the start/run position, then waiting for the check engine and alarm indicator light to go out, I start the bike. Within seconds of the bike starting, the engine check light comes back ON. It stays on for about 3-5 seconds and then goes off, and does not come back on again while the bike is running. I can't recall if this is normal - anyone out there able to confirm this is OK?

With the light out, I figure it is OK to ride. Any comments?

Thanks!
 

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One possibility

On startup you are supposed to wait until the Check Engine light goes out (after depressing the "Run" switch) while the fuel pump primes the injectors. Sometimes, if you a little too quick to depress the start button, the engine will misfire on startup, and a minor error code is recorded. This is indicated by the Check Engine light staying on for a couple of seconds. If it goes out within a few seconds, there is no problem and you can ride the bike with no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
VRD - thaks for the quick reply.

My question was/is based on the fact that I do wait until the engine light goes out the first time before pressing the start button.

I was also recommended to toggle the key from "run" to "off" 50 times (this took a few minutes) to try and clar the computer. Even after this, AND going through a "correct" starting procedure, the engine light still came on for a few seconds as stated in my original post.

However, based on your response, as long as the light goes out shortly after starting I will go on the presumption that there is not an issue.

Thanks again!
 

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Scooter_D said:
Within seconds of the bike starting, the engine check light comes back ON. It stays on for about 3-5 seconds and then goes off, and does not come back on again while the bike is running.

If this is a modern auto (say '90+) this would indicate that the computer has stored a trouble code and is letting you know that it has one to report.

Normally it'll blink in a sort of morse code, you can 'read' this and look up the trouble code in the manual, telling you what component generated the code.

I've no idea if this is accurate for the V-Rod.

When this happens to my Toyota I can pull the efi fuse for 30sec and it'll clear the codes.
It'll trap a code if for example, I was working on the TPS and turned the ignition on before plugging it back in.
Computer traps an error and saves it. Have to clear the memory to eliminate it.

You'll want to either ask your Dealer or someone like ChopperSteve or Kaz how to clear the codes out.

On the other hand it might be nothing.
 

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i have noticed since installing my power commander3 and a map from dyno-jet my 03 v-rod does the same thing.
lite comes for a second or two then goes out,never comes on during ride.
so i assume all is well and normal bike runs well.
 

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The light will come on for five seconds if a trouble code has been reported during the last 50 test of that system. Cycling the key 50 times is not the same as 50 drive cycles. Mine does the same thing from time to time, every time I have checked it is security codes but never caused a problem.

A full drive cycle should see the temp rise by a given amount and see vss at a sustained rate for a certain period of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the feedback, the light started acting up after the stealer did the 1000 mi check. I'll be back to them shortly so they can plug in the diagnostic tools and figure out what the code means, and possibly even clear it.

I don't have any of the engine/exhaust mods (yet), so there is no reprogramming issue.

Basically, I guess as long as it the light is indicating that there was an issue, and it doesn't stay lit, I don't really have an ongoing problem. Thanks again for the replies.

Ride safe!
 

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Engine Diagnostic Codes

I realize this is a long post, but it was helpful to me. I hope that some of you find it helpful, as well. This procedure was posted for a Harley Touring bike, but is effective for checking & clearing codes for the V-Rod, too.


Engine Diagnostics Check Procedure

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

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DTC FAULT CONDITION MODULE

B0563 Battery Voltage High TSM/TSSM
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low Instruments
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open Instruments
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments
B1008 Reset Switch Closed Instruments
B1131 Alarm Output Low TSM/TSSM
B1132 Alarm Output High TSM/TSSM
B1134 Starter Output High TSM/TSSM
B1135 Accelerometer Fault TSM/TSSM
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low TSM/TSSM
B1152 Sidecar BAS High TSM/TSSM
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range TSM/TSSM
P0106 MAP Sensor Rate of Range Error Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Failed Open/Low Carb
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0108 Map Sensor Failed High Carb
P0108 Map Sensor High EFI
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low EFI
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High EFI
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low EFI
P0123 TP Sensor High EFI
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low EFI
P0262 Front Injector High EFI
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low EFI
P0264 Rear Injector High EFI
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent Carb
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent EFI
P0374 CKP Sensor Not Detected Carb
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error EFI
P0501 VSS Low Carb
P0501 VSS Low EFI
P0502 VSS High/Open Carb
P0502 VSS High/Open EFI
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control EFI
P0562 Battery Voltage Low Carb
P0562 Battery Voltage Low EFI
P0563 Battery Voltage High Carb
P0563 Battery Voltage High EFI
P0602 Calibration Memory Error Carb
P0603 EEPROM Failure Carb
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error EFI
P0604 RAM Failure Carb
P0605 Program Memory Error Carb
P0605 ECM Flash Error EFI
P0607 Converter Error Carb
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low EFI
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1003 System relay Contacts Open EFI
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed EFI
P1009 Incorrect Password Carb
P1009 Incorrect Password EFI
P1010 Missing Password Carb
P1010 Missing Password EFI
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low Carb
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low EFI
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low Carb
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low EFI
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted Carb
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted EFI
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion EFI
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front EFI
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear EFI
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data Instruments
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data, Vehicle Speed, Vehicle Inhibit Motion or Powertrain Security Status TSM/TSSM
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Carb
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data EFI
U1064 Loss of TSM/TSSM Serial Data Instruments
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data Carb
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data EFI
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data TSM/TSSM
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message Instruments
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message TSM/TSSM
U1300 Serial Data Low Carb
U1300 Serial Data Low EFI
U1300 Serial Data Low Instruments
U1300 Serial Data Low TSM/TSSM
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Carb
U1301 Serial Data Open/High EFI
U1301 Serial Data Open/High Instruments
U1301 Serial Data Open/High TSM/TSSM

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AFR – Air Fuel Ratio

ATS – Air Temperature Sensor

BAS – Bank Angle Sensor

CCM – Cruise Control Module

CKP – Crank Position Sensor. The CKP generates an “AC signal” which is sent to the ECM where it is used to reference engine position (TDC) and speed. Home position established by taking readings off the 22 teeth on the alternator rotor.

DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes

ECM – Electronic Control Module. (The Computer) Computes the spark advance for proper ignition timing and fuel control based on sensor inputs (from CKP, MAP & TP sensors) and controls the low-voltage circuits for the ignition coils and injectors. The dwell time for the ignition coil is also calculated in the microprocessor and is dependent upon battery voltage. The programmed dwell feature gives adequate spark at all speeds.

ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature. Sensor also controls the cooling fan relay that provides 12 Vdc to the fans.

EFI – Electronic Fuel Injection

EFP – Electronic Fuel Pump

ET – Engine Temperature sensor

FI – Fuel Injectors

FPR – Fuel Pressure regulator

IAC – Idle Air Control actuator

IAT – Intake Air Temperature sensor

ISS – Ion Sensing System…detonation detection

MAP – manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. The MAP sensor monitors the intake manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends the information to the ECM. The EMC then adjusts the spark and fuel-timing advance curves for optimum performance.

TP – Throttle Position Sensor

TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)

VE – Volume Efficiency

VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control
 

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Quote
"VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control"

Wrong-output from speedo indicating what speed the vehicle is traveling. Signal goes (input) to E.C.M. (along with inputs from other sensors T.P.S.- Baro-Ck.P.-I.A.T.-Tach.-etc.) to control I.A.C. both at idle and at speed.
It also is used to input information to T.S.M./T.S.S.M. and cruise module & radio (if so equipped)
 

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I realize this is an old thread but I was just browsing...

I had the same problem with my VR. The check engine light would come back on for a few seconds after starting. The problem was loose battery terminals. Snug the screws connecting the cables to the battery and all should be well. I have never had the problem again.

Big D
 

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Just has this problem Tuesday...

The only other symptom I had was after running for about 3 seconds the bike would shut down completely. Also, the red "key" lamp would stay on until I shut the ignition switch off. I repeated the process at least 5 times, and every time the bike would stop running (after almost exactly 3 sec.) and the engine light would come on - with the red key lamp. On the 6th or 7th try she started up as if there was never a problem. I rode the 25 miles home from work without incident. When I start it now I get the engine light for a few sec's as you guys describe. I'll let you know what I find out after I print out that diagnostic procedure post and give ita shot.
 

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Uh Oh......

Got a couple of error codes. Now if I only knew what they meant.

P1010 Missing Password EFI
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing message EFI
OR Serial Data Error/Missing message instruments
"" " Speedometer
" " TSM/TSSM


WTF is all this?????
 

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Scooter_D said:
VRD - thaks for the quick reply.

My question was/is based on the fact that I do wait until the engine light goes out the first time before pressing the start button.

I was also recommended to toggle the key from "run" to "off" 50 times (this took a few minutes) to try and clar the computer. Even after this, AND going through a "correct" starting procedure, the engine light still came on for a few seconds as stated in my original post.

However, based on your response, as long as the light goes out shortly after starting I will go on the presumption that there is not an issue.

Thanks again!
The 50 times means 50 trips. A "trip" consists of a start and run cycle, not just cycling the key. I forget the times off of the top of my head but it's either a cycle of 5 sec or 15 sec (one is carb and one is efi.)

If all is correct the light comes on, then goes off. if it comes back on then goes off a second time it has a stored code. If if comes on a 2nd time and stays on, you have a current code.

Hope this helps.
 

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Zeus said:
Quote
"VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. Used as an input for idle speed control"

Wrong-output from speedo indicating what speed the vehicle is traveling. Signal goes (input) to E.C.M. (along with inputs from other sensors T.P.S.- Baro-Ck.P.-I.A.T.-Tach.-etc.) to control I.A.C. both at idle and at speed.
It also is used to input information to T.S.M./T.S.S.M. and cruise module & radio (if so equipped)
Zeus, the VSS IS tied into idle control as well as sensing vehicle speed. VRSC VSS can cause erratic idles if they are sending an erratic signal while the vehicle is sitting at a stop.
 

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I had the same problem after installing the powercommander. Just clear the trouble codes (directions are in the owners manual) and you should be fine. Otherwise it should go out automatically after so many running cycles.
 

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hi,
If your're concerend about clearing the codes. Your best bet may be to have the dealer pull them, and you wont have to wait for 50 runs.
 

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I just wanted to thank formulaV for his long post I printed out his procedure and it worked great. I think it's great when we are able to help ourselves instead of running to the dealer for every little item. I would be interested to know if the engine code that appeared could be caused by sitting over the winter. I did not notice any problems last fall and the only thing I did this winter was install a battery tender. Maybe disconnecting the battery terminal generated some error code?
 

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Was the light staying on? Did you retreave a code or just reset it? If you did get a code, what was it?
 

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tried it

Tried the sequence and all I got was d01clr thru d10clr and then PPU. I would hit the odometer reset and toggle thru each of the numbers but none of these codes were listed
d01CLr
d02CLr
d03CLr
d04CLr
d05CLr
d06CLr
d07CLr
d08CLr
d09CLr
d10CLr
PPU
82883

My bike is a 2003 Electra Glide Classic with 22,663 miles on it
100 Anniversary Firefighter Special Edition
 

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Help I have the engine light problem, but then the bike runs bad. My 2002 Roadking the engine lights comes on after about 25 miles and stays on, then it starts to run bad. We have had in the shop, replaced ECM and Curse control wiring and still have same problem. The code when they replace ECM was CP0113. Unplugged and replugged all wiring in headlight and under tank. Lost where to check next.
 
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