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Screamin' Eagle
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I will be getting my build done way ahead of schedule, actually next week. Once done, I will post my SE build list to the forum. Thanks for all of the great help and advice, this will be a better ride due to this group!

Now for my final (and likely controversial) question... How should I break the engine in? I am doing jugs, pistons, heads, cams, and supporting systems (e.g. lifters, rods, rockers, etc.)

I have read several conflicting articles online about break-in and am interested in your feedback.

Option 1: Factory recommended break-in - baby the engine for 1000 miles.

Option 2: 50/500/1000/2000 break-in process on J&Ps: http://www.jpcycles.com/Tech/Articles/enginebreak.aspx

Option 3: Idle/50/500/1000 break-in process on Harleyhunters: http://www.harleyhunters.com/harley-hunters-blog/the-best-way-to-break-in-your-motorcycle-engine/

Option 4 (the controversy): MotoMan's hard+fast break-in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Now, I will say in advance, I am leaning towards option 4. A friend of mine who works on plane engines out west, states this is the only way to break-in an engine and this is how plane engines are broken in for the best performance+reliability. He has also borken in a couple of sport bikes and his Audi TT using these methods and is very pleased.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers.
 

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Option 4 for me. Sort of did that on my last build and didn't know about option 4 at the time. doing a new build now and option 4 will be the go

karlrockdrain
 

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In aircraft engines

ericsenf said:
I will be getting my build done way ahead of schedule, actually next week. Once done, I will post my SE build list to the forum. Thanks for all of the great help and advice, this will be a better ride due to this group!

Now for my final (and likely controversial) question... How should I break the engine in? I am doing jugs, pistons, heads, cams, and supporting systems (e.g. lifters, rods, rockers, etc.)

I have read several conflicting articles online about break-in and am interested in your feedback.

Option 1: Factory recommended break-in - baby the engine for 1000 miles.

Option 2: 50/500/1000/2000 break-in process on J&Ps: http://www.jpcycles.com/Tech/Articles/enginebreak.aspx

Option 3: Idle/50/500/1000 break-in process on Harleyhunters: http://www.harleyhunters.com/harley-hunters-blog/the-best-way-to-break-in-your-motorcycle-engine/

Option 4 (the controversy): MotoMan's hard+fast break-in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Now, I will say in advance, I am leaning towards option 4. A friend of mine who works on plane engines out west, states this is the only way to break-in an engine and this is how plane engines are broken in for the best performance+reliability. He has also borken in a couple of sport bikes and his Audi TT using these methods and is very pleased.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers.
Which are very much like a harley the process is make sure the engine is warmed up and run it at (AT LEAST 70%) power. Failure to do so results in glazed cylinders. Once glazed they NEVER brake in.

Obviously you can not run constantly at 70% power on your bike on the street unless you want a bunch of tickets.

Warm up so the cylinders and pistons heat up is critical. This applies to everything. Not just Harleys.
 

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I heat cycled my fresh build three times before I took it for a ride even though I bored my stock cylinders to 95”. I went fairly easy on the first ride which was about 10 miles just to somewhat make sure everything was together properly and nothing was leaking. After that it was #4. Just about everything made today is manufactured to very close tolerances so the need to baby the engine is just an old wives tale, IMHO.
 

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There is alot of discussion on this, do a search and resernce an evening. I ddid 3 heat cylces, change oil at 50, 500 then normal.

Not saying what I did was right. Just what I did.

I used dino oil for first and 50. Cause it cheap. IMO the advantage of syn is it doesn't break down, not anissue in 50 miles.

Next time, I would be tempeted to changed after 3 heate cycles. I found some small specs on plug.


either way enjoy the build. What did you go with? To bad SE, but someone has to keep them in buisness.
 

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Ask your dynotuner. Mine told me to watch it with the rpms for the first 500 mi, then he took over. He broke it in and dynoed it. It runs great.
 

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I used option 4, Warmed it up took it out road it hard for 10 min then checked everything out let it soak for about an hour warmed it up road it hard for 20-25 mins changed the oil..next 200 miles alot of loading and unloading the pistons changed the oil and road it normal..worked great both CCP 3 psi apart now within 2 psi of what it should according to build specs:xhere:
 

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I did option number 4 on a dyno. So far in the 1,300 miles since the build the bike doesn't burn a drop of oil and the compression is where it should be in both cyl.
 

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Break-in

We start 'em for 15 sec, then off, and cool down.
30 sec, then off, then cool down, and we continue this until we have been able to do this until we reach running of 3 min. All while a large fan is blowing on the powerplant.
All this time we are listening, and looking.
After we determine all is well, we then proceed to put 6 miles on it.
Back to the shop to cool down,and look it over.
Then the next ride is 13 miles, all the time never exceding 2500-2700 rpms.
Back to the shop to check it over.
After that we make a 22 mile run, still maintain lower engine rpms, to keep the heat off the rings, on the fresh crosshatch.
Now after we now have over 40 miles on our new(not ours, but a clients)engine. Now we can rough the tune in on the dyno. Note, these are not our bikes, they belong to someone else, so we take great care not to harm.(You folks with your own, can do it anyway you want.)
This sets the stage for a long running, powerful engine.
Scott
 

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Hillsides looks like a good, carful way to do it. Though most of us at home may not rough dyno it.
 

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It is important to get a good dyno if you have an ECM. The farther from stock you go, the more important this becomes. If you have a map for a similar build, use it to break it in, but a complete tune asap is needed. Find a dyno tuner that knows Harleys or buy a DTT. Everything needs to be addressed from front and rear cylinder timing to AFR, to cruise values vs WOT values, idleing and warmup specs. The size of the injectors and the displacement should also be plugged in correctly.

If you tuner doesn't address everything, get another. Make sure up front that you can have a copy of the map.
 
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