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Hey Everyone, I need advice. My 2003 Electra Glide has problems with stop and go city driving after heating up. Two things occur at these times. First, the bike dies as if I turned off the ignition...everything goes off; radio, dashboard screen, everything electrical (I'm not sure about the head and tail lights since I'm on the bike). I can pull over and turn the ignition switch on and off, maybe a few times, and the power comes back on and I can start it up. Second, after I start it, it will not idle. I have to continually goose the throttle to keep it running. This seems to keep occurring until I can get on a long stretch and the bike begins running better and will continue to idle and sounds good. I had the circuit breaker replaced with the recall but it still happens. I've been told it may be a sensor (not sure which they said), my battery or my ignition switch. I've read other forums talking about venting, vapor locking (I don't have a carburetor) and even saw a reply about the clutch cable. It seems like two problems - ignition goes out then runs poorly. This can be an expensive problem to fix by trying the hit and miss technique - wow, a battery costs $175 from the dealership. Has anyone solved this problem or can shed some light on my best direction to take/test? It runs great and forever on the highway until city traffic. I love riding my bike but dieing in the middle of heavy traffic is a little spine numbing.
 

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since you are loosing all power I would suspect the main circuit breaker, there was a recall for them in the early 2000's can not remember the exact year there have been a couple posts on here of people switching them over to the new max fuse system used on the newer bikes.

LoneEagle
 

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I would agree with Lone Eagle. Even though my circuit breaker was replaced with the recall, it still failed two more times and did what you are describing. I'm not a tech by any means and I was given bad advice that my circuit breakers system could not be changed to a maxi fuse. I just took the dealer's word ( mistake). I ended up moving my main circuit breaker to under the right side cover and away from the heat of it's original position( right behind the rear jug exhaust and just inside the battery compartment) Bottom line, the heat causes the breaker to 'open' and cut out, a few moments of cooling and it will work again.
Do a Maxi fuse swap . Even if it doesn't totally solve the problem, it will be be a preemptive repair. That breaker will fail due to heat at some point.
 

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since you are loosing all power I would suspect the main circuit breaker, there was a recall for them in the early 2000's can not remember the exact year there have been a couple posts on here of people switching them over to the new max fuse system used on the newer bikes.

LoneEagle
Correct and the year was 2003.
 

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since you are loosing all power I would suspect the main circuit breaker, there was a recall for them in the early 2000's can not remember the exact year there have been a couple posts on here of people switching them over to the new max fuse system used on the newer bikes.

LoneEagle
Correct. The recall was on the '03 Touring models and the fix replaces the breaker (located right behind the rear cylinder, just above the header) with a 50A Maxi-fuse.
 

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Check the crimped connection on the main power wire at the main circuit breaker. Believe it's red. In a lot of instances, corrosion on the crimp was causing the problem (excessive resistance generating more heat). Fixing this problem solved the overheat problem with the main breaker.

Faulty ignition switches have also been known to cause the same problem.
 

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excess engine heat will pop the breaker. then after sitting long enough for the breaker to connect, the engine has heat soaked, causing chitty running. fix the heat------fix the problem.
 

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Strange how these things go, and each spring its something new. Last year, my '80 SG decided I wasn't going to leave the parts store. Check what wires i could to no avail. A few minutes later, just like Emerald .........BAM! Started right up and went directly home. So I decided to change out all three BREAKERS under the seat and bolted to the fender. No more problems.

So, on our 2003 EG/ touring models, the main BREAKER is replaced with a huge fuse?............I should get on this ASAP!

Thanks,

Steve-
 

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I had a problem with my 07 RK right after I bought in used last year. A couple time it would quite running while going down the road, the taillights and brake lights would intermittently stop working, etc. I would turn the main switch off and back on and it would work again. Brought this to the attention of harley shop and they said that it sounds like the ignition switch was "dirty". They disassembled and cleaned the switch/contacts and everything has been fine since.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for your replies. My circuit breaker is brand new, but I can see where the heat could cause it to open anyhow. I'm going to check my terminals to the breaker and also look into the max fuse. I will also clean my ignition switch contacts. I will keep you all posted on the results. Thanks again!!!
 

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those of you that moved the fuse, which side cover (left or right) did you move it too and how much of a pain was it to lengthen those wires
 

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I fixed mine, it was doing the same thing...

My 2005 Ultra was doing the same thing, put a new ignition switch in it. All you need is the base part with the electrical plug attached, about $75.00 from the stealer, you will use your old key. Also O'Rielly's sells a great battery (AGM) type for your Harley for $118.00. Be sure and pick up a Battery Tender Jr. while you are there....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My 2005 Ultra was doing the same thing, put a new ignition switch in it. All you need is the base part with the electrical plug attached, about $75.00 from the stealer, you will use your old key. Also O'Rielly's sells a great battery (AGM) type for your Harley for $118.00. Be sure and pick up a Battery Tender Jr. while you are there....
Thanks for the tips 05ChromeUltra. I do want to replace the switch and it's good to know O-Rielly's has a battery.
 

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Thanks for the tips 05ChromeUltra. I do want to replace the switch and it's good to know O-Rielly's has a battery.
As you are in snow country, salt on the road, then in the air, I would check all the connections, apply dielectric paste. I am not surprised if the voltage regulator is intermittent, which may require to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Everyone, I moved my main circuit breaker yesterday. It wasn't too difficult and I found a good spot under the seat at the rear fender. I used two 8 gauge wires, some crimp on eyelets and electrical tape. I've ridden it twice now in a lot of city traffic and today was warm with the temps in the 80s. My bike did not die at all!!! It was great. I believe this has fixed my problem, because before it would have died multiple times on a trip like today's. I'll keep you posted how it does in the future. Thanks again to everyone who helped with advice. Ride safe.
 

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when they did away with the circuit breaker and went with the maxi-fuse, they placed the fuse under the left side cover.

then the same symptoms returned, only this time from faulty ignition switches...but that's another story...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's been just over 2 weeks now and I've done quite a bit of riding and my bike has not died at all! I've done plenty of stop and go city driving too. I believe moving the circuit breaker has solved my problem! Safe riding
 
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