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ovanay elinquentday
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The ECM will care less if you get on and ride - but your not yet warmed up cyls/engine is not going to last long. just sayin...
 

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I have a carb and don't warm it up,these TC motors warm up right quick.
The only time I let it warm up any more than getting good oil pressure is in very cold weather or if it's been sitting a while like after winter storage.
 

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GPO03FatBoy said:
but your not yet warmed up cyls/engine is not going to last long. just sayin...
I would have to disagree with that assuming he doesn't take off and run it WOT like a dumb kid.
I start my bike every day,wait a few seconds for good oil pressure and take off taking it easy for the first couple miles.
Done it that way for years and my bikes last a long time,130,000 miles on my 2000 and it's never broke down.
40K and still running strong added a 95" kit,103K and still running strong add goodies that would have voided the warranty like cams,head work,higher compression,30K on that build now.
Rode my FXR the same way,100,000 miles without a rebuild on it and I rode it to the shop for a fresh top end job and new cam & lifters with some head work.
It was still running good but starting to leak oil.
I sold that bike but last I knew it had 150,000 on the clock and running great on the original lower end and the one fresh top end.
My point here is that there's no need to let a bike sit and warm up as long as you don't run the crap out of a cold engine,just take it easy for a few miles till it's up to full operating temps.
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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Y2K said:
I would have to disagree with that assuming he doesn't take off and run it WOT like a dumb kid.
I start my bike every day,wait a few seconds for good oil pressure and take off taking it easy for the first couple miles.
Done it that way for years and my bikes last a long time,130,000 miles on my 2000 and it's never broke down.
40K and still running strong added a 95" kit,103K and still running strong add goodies that would have voided the warranty like cams,head work,higher compression,30K on that build now.
Rode my FXR the same way,100,000 miles without a rebuild on it and I rode it to the shop for a fresh top end job and new cam & lifters with some head work.
It was still running good but starting to leak oil.
I sold that bike but last I knew it had 150,000 on the clock and running great on the original lower end and the one fresh top end.
My point here is that there's no need to let a bike sit and warm up as long as you don't run the crap out of a cold engine,just take it easy for a few miles till it's up to full operating temps.
a lot of "ifs" there. just sayin...
 

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Personally, with aluminum heads, pistons and cylinders, it is good practice to let the motor get some heat in it to get the expansion started. Cylinders and heads should be quite warm to the touch with your bare fingers and the 90 sec efi warmup enrichment cycle should be complete before you ride. One thing that is vulnerable in an aluminum motor, is if you go ride when the motor is cold and you twist too much throttle, is the head gasket.
 

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I warm up my Ultra the same way I have warmed up every vehicle I have had with EFI since 1992. I start it and idle it for about 60 seconds in the summer, 2 minutes in the winter temps. Just long enough to buckle the seat belt, check the mirrors, check the tunes and off we go.
 

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kwas said:
I warm up my Ultra the same way I have warmed up every vehicle I have had with EFI since 1992. I start it and idle it for about 60 seconds in the summer, 2 minutes in the winter temps. Just long enough to buckle the seat belt, check the mirrors, check the tunes and off we go.
Agree, I always warm up every vehicle before driving off.
 

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Doesn't matter

My brother in law works for Ford and they run durability drives on their products in extreme cold and heat and try to break them. They have cold started products that have been sitting in below zero temps and went full throttle for the entire day, shut them down for the night and repeated........for weeks and then tore down the engine and trannnys and found no adverse effects from that treatment. Before engines are released for production they have to run at FULL throttle for 300 hours without a sample failure. If it fails they look at the component that failed and focus on improving it before the next test. I wouldn't do this to my machinery but it only makes me feel better pampering it. It is designed to take a beating.
 

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I usually let it run for about a minute or so, since it takes me 1.5 miles at 20 to 30 mph to get out of the neighborhood, that does a good warm up of everything before I start to exercise the motor. I too use the time to put the gloves on, glasses on, adjust the mirrors, check the tires and look it over good for any leaks, then away we go.
 

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The EFI doesn't have much to do with why it is a good idea to let the bike warm up. It will allow you to get a cold motor to perform and allow you to take off cold and keep from stalling. But the reason to warm up the motor is to allow the engine and gaskets to heat up and expand before putting a load on the motor. The top end is made from a variety of materials, all having differant heating and expantion charictoristics. You want to let everything expand and make a good seal before loading up the engine.

You don't hear anyone saying it is bad to warm it up. Just those who say there isn't an need.
 

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I normally back the bike out, start it up and let it idle long enough to lock the garage,put my gloves on and test the lights and brakes, and then go slow for the first mile or so.
 

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airman said:
My brother in law works for Ford and they run durability drives on their products in extreme cold and heat and try to break them. They have cold started products that have been sitting in below zero temps and went full throttle for the entire day, shut them down for the night and repeated........for weeks and then tore down the engine and trannnys and found no adverse effects from that treatment. Before engines are released for production they have to run at FULL throttle for 300 hours without a sample failure. If it fails they look at the component that failed and focus on improving it before the next test. I wouldn't do this to my machinery but it only makes me feel better pampering it. It is designed to take a beating.
a water cooled iron block is a little different from air cooled aluminum cylinders and heads. not to mention the different method of attaching the heads to the cylinders. seen a number of blown head gaskets from beating on aluminum motors when they are not fully expanded yet.

Another thing to consider is letting the tranny lube and tranny gears come up to temp some before beating on them too. My general practice is to let the cylinders and heads come up to a temp where I can't leave my fingers on the fins for very long and then ride easy for the first 5 - 10 miles to let everything come up to temp. Then I beat on it.
 

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Idling to warm up a bike take very long as the amount of burned fuel is very small once the EFI enrichener function is off (about a minute or so).
A reasonable compromise between the 'let it idle until hot to the touch' faction and the 'get on it' guys could be to start the bike, put on gloves, pull in the jiffy and go. Limit your revs to 2000-2500 rpm and light load for about 10 min and then let her run in the typical Harley fashion between 2000 and 4000 rpm.
Prolonged idle just prolongs the suffering of the engine, light to medium loads/revs shorten it.

JMHO
 

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OK, I'll say it. Warming an engine, any engine, at idle is a bad thing. For those concerned about the differing metals needing to warm up, how about the differing metals warming up at HUGE differences in temps. Where the fire is, the metal will warm up extremely quickly. Any distance from there, especially on a cold day, will warm up very slowly or not at all. How about the transmission? How about the tranny or differential on a car? Same principle. If anyone has seen termal imaging of an engine, especially aircooled, as it starts cold and warms up at idle, you would be amazed at the great temp differentials. I saw it for an idling aircraft motor. I wonder if someone here had access to that type of equipment they could borrow from work. That would solve the question.
 

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Jeffytune said:
test the lights and brakes, .
I am not sure if I should feel guilty or not.

But yes warmit up, regardless of what the fuel system is, its still made out of metal, that needs to expands. Its also made of differant type that expand at differant rates. Plus what the hell does it hurt tolet it warm up?

My warms up in proportin to gear I put on, clder more gear, longer warm up.
 

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Never happened to me, but my cousin broke the skirt off a piston, on a sled, cranking on it before it was warmed up.

I always warmed mine up some, and then took it easy. I know leave on 55 mph road, so I try to warm all my vehicles up a bit.

I am speking from my bowels, this is just what I do.
 
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