They tend to be quite finicky, but after a while you get the hang of it. The one thing that seems to make a lot of difference is temperature. You are supposed to adjust them on a cold bike, but you might want to recheck it with a moderate amount of temperature in the bike if the weather is on the cold side (not a hot bike).
Recheck the alignment, make yourself a little tool with a bent welding rod and measure from the center of the swingarm pivot shaft to the center of the axle, on both sides. You have to pop the two little chrome caps off. I usually twist the belt in the center of the lower run and it should go past 45 degrees easy but take significant effort to get to 90 degrees just before you get there, with no one on the bike but the weight of the bike has to be on the ground. If there is any doubt in your mind it's better to run it slightly on the loose side then on the tight side. Loose eats belts and tight eats up more power then you would ever believe and eats gearbox and axle bearings. Just one or two flats on the adjuster nuts makes a significant difference.
The primary chain you can check with a little machinists ruler. Push up with it until you just make contact with the chain and then push up as far as it goes. You can read the measurement on the ruler using the upper edge of the inspection hole as a reference. Same thing applies, better loose then tight. One tooth in the adjustment makes quite a difference and sometimes you just can't get it spot on.
Recheck the alignment, make yourself a little tool with a bent welding rod and measure from the center of the swingarm pivot shaft to the center of the axle, on both sides. You have to pop the two little chrome caps off. I usually twist the belt in the center of the lower run and it should go past 45 degrees easy but take significant effort to get to 90 degrees just before you get there, with no one on the bike but the weight of the bike has to be on the ground. If there is any doubt in your mind it's better to run it slightly on the loose side then on the tight side. Loose eats belts and tight eats up more power then you would ever believe and eats gearbox and axle bearings. Just one or two flats on the adjuster nuts makes a significant difference.
The primary chain you can check with a little machinists ruler. Push up with it until you just make contact with the chain and then push up as far as it goes. You can read the measurement on the ruler using the upper edge of the inspection hole as a reference. Same thing applies, better loose then tight. One tooth in the adjustment makes quite a difference and sometimes you just can't get it spot on.
