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I also want to add a vented cover to prevent overheating witch seems to kill all the ones that go in the cone.
But then you open yourself up to moisture.

Damned if ya do. Damned if ya dont.

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Discussion Starter #962
But then you open yourself up to moisture.

Damned if ya do. Damned if ya dont.

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Yah true....i don't ride in rain at least not that bike. Shes a tad touchy for that $hit but yah you get caught sometimes. I usually run for a bar if that happens
 

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Discussion Starter #963
Installed the dynatek 2000i ignition have it static timed, seems to run just as strong without pinging. Stopping by a buddies shop tomorrow to hit it with a light. Going to punch in indicator marks for TDC and 35° on the front belt pulley and drive plate this way won't even need to pull the timing plug to check timing. Can be done externally. I have a new set of clutches and a variable pressure plate inbound now from Rivera Primo. That should fix the clutch slip on the juice.
 

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Discussion Starter #964
Question for you motor experts.. The flywheel on the V124 has three marks according to what I found the 124 has marks for 28° btdc and TDC. Says the max advance on the Dynatek is 32°or 35° depending on curve chosen. Do I set max timing for the timing mark or should I set for ignition system?
 

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Discussion Starter #965
Got the gear in for the clutch upgrade. New Rivera Kevlar composite clutch pack, variable pressure plate and cover came in today. So I have to drill and tap holes in the pulley rim so the cover can be installed as there aren't any holes in the pulley to accept. Called to verify this and was told that is correct. With the weight assembly spinning at 6500rpm its basically a food processor on the side of the bike so the cover is mandatory. Very heavy duty machined aluminum cover. I was told this setup will hold over 200hp. Bonus is that it now uses the black clutch spring so clutch lever pressure will be even less yet at the same time clutch pressure increases substantially.
 

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I also want to add a vented cover to prevent overheating witch seems to kill all the ones that go in the cone.
But then you open yourself up to moisture.

IMG_1910.JPG



I've lost a couple of those to heat, as well. Here's my latest attempt. I found a vented nosecone cover, the slots are open to the inside, then used some high-temp silicone sealer to attach a layer of air filter material that's intended for marine air filter applications (super fine, nylon mesh, supposed to let air pass through and keep water out) to the inside. Sorry I don't have a photo of the inside showing the mesh. I don't ride in the rain intentionally but sometimes Mother Nature catches me off guard. Anyway, this has been on for about a year. So far, so good.

Accutronix part number, available through Drag Specialties:
STEP SLOT DERBY COVER EVO | Products | Drag Specialties®www.dragspecialties.com › products

I think this is the fabric I used:
Amazon.com: Pre-Filter Bulk Outerwear Fabric: Automotivehttps://www.amazon.com › Outerwears-Pre-Filter-Sheet-18in-WR18BK
 

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View attachment 263425


I've lost a couple of those to heat, as well. Here's my latest attempt. I found a vented nosecone cover, the slots are open to the inside, then used some high-temp silicone sealer to attach a layer of air filter material that's intended for marine air filter applications (super fine, nylon mesh, supposed to let air pass through and keep water out) to the inside. Sorry I don't have a photo of the inside showing the mesh. I don't ride in the rain intentionally but sometimes Mother Nature catches me off guard. Anyway, this has been on for about a year. So far, so good.

Accutronix part number, available through Drag Specialties:
3681DCF6-A79F-4B30-8C93-B24DBA38F655.png

I think this is the fabric I used:
Amazon.com: Pre-Filter Bulk Outerwear Fabric: Automotivehttps://www.amazon.com › Outerwears-Pre-Filter-Sheet-18in-WR18BK
It's about time you made yourself useful. :)

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Question for you motor experts.. The flywheel on the V124 has three marks according to what I found the 124 has marks for 28° btdc and TDC. Says the max advance on the Dynatek is 32°or 35° depending on curve chosen. Do I set max timing for the timing mark or should I set for ignition system?
The 28 degree mark is irrelevant. The timing for that Dyna 2k ignition are based on TDC. Those numbers for max advance are also sort of irrelevant. The most accurate way to set timing on one of these is with a dial-back timing light and the TDC index marks you are going to punch. When setting the timing mark then with a fine point Sharpie. All engines are different. The max advance and timing curve that is best for my 124 setup will most likely not be the same as it is for yours or anyone else's. Use that dial back light, pick a max advance, set it run it on the dyno. On the dyno the plate can be adjusted back and forth until the most desired curves are achieved. Once set, go back with that dial back light and adjust it until the marks are aligned. The light will tell you what the advance is set to. Now that the max advance is known it can easily be repeated.

Bottom line, the only timing marks that are relevant are the TDC marks for the front cylinder and the engine will tell you how much advance is best. A dial back light will allow you to accurately set the initial advance and read the advance once you are done on the dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #972
Thanks for commenting, I basically wound up at the same solution for venting Found a chrome mesh cover that had a black insert behind it so drilled holes in it for venting. I got the timing set pretty good doing hard roll-ons listening for pinging then backing off. It's gotta go back on the dyno now that the clutch has been upgraded we will finally see the Hp numbers on the NOS now that the clutch can hold. I'll let him tweak the timing.
 

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Thanks for commenting, I basically wound up at the same solution for venting Found a chrome mesh cover that had a black insert behind it so drilled holes in it for venting. I got the timing set pretty good doing hard roll-ons listening for pinging then backing off. It's gotta go back on the dyno now that the clutch has been upgraded we will finally see the Hp numbers on the NOS now that the clutch can hold. I'll let him tweak the timing.

Getting that dial back light on right after the thing is finished is IME a critical step as it will allow you to take stuff apart and duplicate the tune much more accurate than any visual marking will allow. Once you know the number, lets say 28 degrees at full advance (with VOES grounded) it will become second nature.
 

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Discussion Starter #974
Getting that dial back light on right after the thing is finished is IME a critical step as it will allow you to take stuff apart and duplicate the tune much more accurate than any visual marking will allow. Once you know the number, lets say 28 degrees at full advance (with VOES grounded) it will become second nature.
Yes that's what I was trying to accomplish a repeatable setting. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #975
On to another issue.. Still having issues with high speed stability. The rear of the bike has never felt so solid. Just to review the upgrades in the rear it has new pivot shaft, new isolators with "stiffy" metal inserts, solid bronze bushings, new paughco swing arm, new axle hardware, new tire, new mag wheel and Ohlins piggyback shocks. The rear of bike responds so fast now it feels like it responds instantly even more than the front. When swerving back and forth on the road the rear seems to snap back in line extremely quick. Feels nice and tight back there. There isn't much else I can do back there. It's the front end where I feel I have an issue. Above 80mph I'm still getting a weave. I'm no stranger to high speed riding been up to 190 on old *** bikes well aware of natural tendencies of wobble and weave and pushing through them. This one won't let me past it. The rear starts oscillating with increasing amplitude the faster you go. By 95 mph $hit gets spooky.. Front end configuration is new Tire, alxe, wheel bearings, progressive rate springs, emulators and still present. Also new front motor mount and stabilizers. Reminder it has 41mm wide glide forks 3"over in the front. I've got a CCE fork brace inbound hope that should help to rectify. Also going to add third stablizer link behind trans. The next thing if that doesn't fix is loosing the front spoked rim. I've heard others have had stability issues with longer tubes on wide glide front ends hoping this fixes it. Any suggestions?
 

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I'm guessing you have a weight distribution problem with all the iron you added to the rear.

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On to another issue.. Still having issues with high speed stability. The rear of the bike has never felt so solid. Just to review the upgrades in the rear it has new pivot shaft, new isolators with "stiffy" metal inserts, solid bronze bushings, new paughco swing arm, new axle hardware, new tire, new mag wheel and Ohlins piggyback shocks. The rear of bike responds so fast now it feels like it responds instantly even more than the front. When swerving back and forth on the road the rear seems to snap back in line extremely quick. Feels nice and tight back there. There isn't much else I can do back there. It's the front end where I feel I have an issue. Above 80mph I'm still getting a weave. I'm no stranger to high speed riding been up to 190 on old *** bikes well aware of natural tendencies of wobble and weave and pushing through them. This one won't let me past it. The rear starts oscillating with increasing amplitude the faster you go. By 95 mph $hit gets spooky.. Front end configuration is new Tire, alxe, wheel bearings, progressive rate springs, emulators and still present. Also new front motor mount and stabilizers. Reminder it has 41mm wide glide forks 3"over in the front. I've got a CCE fork brace inbound hope that should help to rectify. Also going to add third stablizer link behind trans. The next thing if that doesn't fix is loosing the front spoked rim. I've heard others have had stability issues with longer tubes on wide glide front ends hoping this fixes it. Any suggestions?

I don't think the additional stabilizer link or wheel change are at the root of the issue. The world is full of FXRs with spoke wheels, without third link stabilizers and wide glide front ends that do not weave at higher speeds. At best these will be bandaids that will mask the real source of the problem.

You have not mentioned alignment, front end fallaway, wheel bearing end play. That fairing, is it attached to the fork or the frame? Have you measured the trail and the angle of the head tube to the ground? The orientation of the swingarm could also be an issue. hard to see it with everything going on with this bike, but a pivot shaft for the arm that is lower than the axle could also be a source of instability. Aerodynamics could also be coming into play here, again, lots going on with this bike. Some of this stuff individually is alright, like that giant primary drive, but stacked up with everything else,, well, you have some cyphering to do. Get out that ruler and protractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #978
I don't think the additional stabilizer link or wheel change are at the root of the issue. The world is full of FXRs with spoke wheels, without third link stabilizers and wide glide front ends that do not weave at higher speeds. At best these will be bandaids that will mask the real source of the problem.

You have not mentioned alignment, front end fallaway, wheel bearing end play. That fairing, is it attached to the fork or the frame? Have you measured the trail and the angle of the head tube to the ground? The orientation of the swingarm could also be an issue. hard to see it with everything going on with this bike, but a pivot shaft for the arm that is lower than the axle could also be a source of instability. Aerodynamics could also be coming into play here, again, lots going on with this bike. Some of this stuff individually is alright, like that giant primary drive, but stacked up with everything else,, well, you have some cyphering to do. Get out that ruler and protractor.
Yes after the dyno it's going up on the table for measuring and thorough alignment. Also The tripple tree is a Pro-1 with Zero degree rake offset. I'm beginning to think the 14.5"Ohlins can be adjusted an inch lower to add a little trail to the geometry should also help stabilize the math anway. I don't think the rear needs a third stabilizer either but it sure won't hurt. Maybe add a touch more preload to the shocks also. The fork brace from what I've read up on does help mostly in corners but at higher speeds there are also allot more forces at play too. Can't hurt for sure. When we made the cowling we made sure it was very even and straight with wheel. It's actually bolted into the sides of the upper tripple tree bracket and in the center of the lower bracket. Aerodynamics could be a factor but I don't think would have such a profound effect as those issues can usually be pushed through when they occur. But who knows it could be. The process of illumination will tell I guess.
 

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compare the offset of the pro 1 tree to the fxr tree. offset can have as much as a effect on trail numbers as rake does.
 

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Discussion Starter #980
So we are having the leather guy "Dave" do the final pieces to complete the bike. He just sent me these to check out the progress. Absolutely love it. So this is the leatherwork that will go on the saddle bags. Will cover the entire lid flap. Keeping with the Pagan/ Viking style artwork. The rest of them will get stained to match and stiffened up to keep their shape when loaded. These panels will put on with old world looking rivets. These are the finale of the leatherwork. Wow he's does some wild stuff with leather.
 

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