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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
Thanks CSO!!!?prty:
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
DTT TCFI IID Map

And to christen this thread here is my sweet running 98" DTT IID Map! Unzip and enjoy! WARNING: I am running 6g/sec injectors!
 

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Nice to ride again :-)
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1,802 Posts
Thank you for the Sticky!

Very cool of you to share the file bbrowncods. Have looked it over with great interest. Has it been dynoed? You got a typical log file to send with that.

Now Does ANYONE have one for a 95/10.5 ?

I am most interested in advance tables on these shared files, as I want to see what other's are running in the 10.5 compression range.

I find it interesting you are allowing BLM in 0% throttle, and that in your ET based RPM you are only at 1019 for increase in the higher heat values.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
I had it dyno'd in Myrtle Beach. But was having AFR issues that I soon found to be a leaking injector. I was using the DTT AFR and Timing and got 92H/104T.
I have since changed the injectors, AFR, and Timing.
All the 2D tables are the same as what DTT sends in their 95 file, except starting and priming which are 30% less due to the 6g injectors. Chris says that the 95 map is for a 95 and 10.5 compression engine, so you should start with that. I found that timing to be too advance around 2500-3200rpm at high throttle. Pinging.
I like the BLM at 0%. I find it reduces popping. I'll do a good run and send a log file!
 

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recommendation: start with 100 front cylinder trim

After some hours on the IID, we changed the front cylinder trim to 100 in all cells. The front cylinder trim from DTT makes it very hard / almost impossible to see the changes your bike has made.

To make things more visable, we tried to start with 100 on front cylinder trim.
No problems. The thing adjusts so quick!
And now it's much easier to see where you have ridden the bike and where changes have been made.

JMHO
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
Agreed. I did the same.
 

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Nice to ride again :-)
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1,802 Posts
Good info if I ever get, and give, and get, my upgrade :crying:

On a question on BLM Table. If the BLM is 89, what does that represent? Does that mean that in corresponding AFR table, for RPM and TPS, I am using 89% of that AFR ratio, which to me means it is running slightly rich? Or/Does it instead relate to the AFR/Alpha N Table?

Another IAC issue today, or should I say keep fixing it until it is broke.

Not that bad but wanted/needed to check and reset my IAC as it appeared to be running high, 35-42, consistent in the logs. Also wanted to Sea Foam the TB and look for black smoke and mainly to clean the plate and make sure it was working smoothly. Well the Doherty funnel insert, TB/plate, and inside body was dirty. Seems I need to oil the filter more or something.

Sea Foam Works!!!!! Followed directions, warmed it, easy as I was checking IAC, Held open the plate, scrub with old tooth brush, wash more down, let sit 5 minuets, fire it up, and they DO mean an open Area, and man what a sight. Mostly all white and did not look like a lot of carbon but smoke she did.
Shut it down let it cool and fired it up and no smoke and all seemed well put about 20 on it tonight no smoke and all seems well there.

GRRRRRRRRR IAC +SMSH+

Set it, ran it 3 times from cool to warm 96C or so and DEAD NUTS on 32 bouncing to 35 but staying at 32-32 consistent. It was cool here in PA and I was using two box fans to cool it as it heated up to 96-110C or so. I watched Live View THREE times and when the Cold changed to Warm Engine in the little window of Live View I was at 32 or so all three times and watched it, dead on the laptop on a chair at eye level. Even went as far on the last two to put the filter and end cap on the Doherty as I had once suspected the difference of the air ram of the Doherty, and nothing else, would change when a filter and the end cap is installed, nope all three times as I said above.

Ran 2 logs tonight and WTF, log showing IAC at 25-27 :wacko:


It takes FOREVER for it to reach 96C. DO I have to wait it of for the 160 sec setting to expire before I can ride? Will it set on a longer ride?

I will say I am on the base 95 map, only 20-25 miles, no front trim done yet have the rear cylinder offset to -1, dropped advance in 2000-2500 by 1% and 2750 by .5% to help smooth the map.

Strange thing is it seems to run well even at this stage of starting over, but this IAC drives me INSANE.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
LAF, Your IAC is good. It doesn't have to be axact. In fact the IID now compensates for what IAC is at idle. Mine varies between 28-34 depending on engine temp and outside air temp and pressure. Which makes sense.

89% BLM means the injector fires at 89% of what the calculated PW is (based on AFR map, Alpha-N map, and EFI inputs). So when you apply the BLM that changes the Alpha-N table, and then next time the calculated AFR is right on.

On the IID the Front BLM changes the Front Cylinder Trim Table and that table is a % of the rear actual PW (O2 sensor corrected).

I know you don't have the IID yet, but I would say that your IAC is good and go with that.
 

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Nice to ride again :-)
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bbrowncods said:
LAF, Your IAC is good. It doesn't have to be axact. In fact the IID now compensates for what IAC is at idle. Mine varies between 28-34 depending on engine temp and outside air temp and pressure. Which makes sense.

89% BLM means the injector fires at 89% of what the calculated PW is (based on AFR map, Alpha-N map, and EFI inputs). So when you apply the BLM that changes the Alpha-N table, and then next time the calculated AFR is right on.

On the IID the Front BLM changes the Front Cylinder Trim Table and that table is a % of the rear actual PW (O2 sensor corrected).

I know you don't have the IID yet, but I would say that your IAC is good and go with that.
As always thank you for the reply. It is dead nuts on at 33 today, I think it needs to run longer then I was to set in the log file, I have to remember I was watching Live View and not a running log and I was shutting it down at 110C.

Anyway GROCK told me a long time ago the HE#* with the log file, Live View is it period I just like to torture myself I guess. Odd thing when I got this to 33 on the Live view my TPS went dead nuts on 4.0 WITHOUT adjusting the TPS sensor. Now in the year I messed with it I could NEVER get 4.0 TPS at IAC of 35.

Onward: I guess a more direct approach on my question on BLM is what can I adjust to change the BLM tables to achieve 95% I do understand it is PW/BLM that affects Alpha N or is that screwed up? At any rate if I am at 100 BLM would I add fuel to the AFR map or alter Alpha N. It seems if I am running 100 % I need to add something, somewhere to make that number a 95.

As I am not a tunner but I have spent a lot of time looking at TPS, RPM, VSS, and AFR in my log files and if I can grasp this concept I think I can finally make this pig run the way I want.

Is is running great now suffering a drop in RPM, slight, but there at very hot idle, adjusted ET based RPM and increased fuel in the 0 and 2.5 TPS position slightly.

The upgrade is what started this in truth, as I wanted a fresh map with the 3.37 gears in and built from scratch, and of course my obsession with IAC, (which was way off, honest) when I have to send the ECU in and they convert my map. Sure it is not needed but just me.

So a few more hours, front trim it on Saturday you know the 5 or six runs you make under varying RPM and TPS positions and stop and download each one, not bad but takes a little time and finding the WOT road is sometimes a challenge. I do think my dat file was shot (self inflicted) and I was not real good at naming files intuitively in my first few months. Oh well, not hard to do and it is running pretty "sporty" now.
 

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LAF said:
Good info if I ever get, and give, and get, my upgrade :crying:

On a question on BLM Table. If the BLM is 89, what does that represent? Does that mean that in corresponding AFR table, for RPM and TPS, I am using 89% of that AFR ratio, which to me means it is running slightly rich? Or/Does it instead relate to the AFR/Alpha N Table?
Another IAC issue today, or should I say keep fixing it until it is broke.

Not that bad but wanted/needed to check and reset my IAC as it appeared to be running high, 35-42, consistent in the logs. Also wanted to Sea Foam the TB and look for black smoke and mainly to clean the plate and make sure it was working smoothly. Well the Doherty funnel insert, TB/plate, and inside body was dirty. Seems I need to oil the filter more or something.

Sea Foam Works!!!!! Followed directions, warmed it, easy as I was checking IAC, Held open the plate, scrub with old tooth brush, wash more down, let sit 5 minuets, fire it up, and they DO mean an open Area, and man what a sight. Mostly all white and did not look like a lot of carbon but smoke she did.
Shut it down let it cool and fired it up and no smoke and all seemed well put about 20 on it tonight no smoke and all seems well there.

GRRRRRRRRR IAC +SMSH+

Set it, ran it 3 times from cool to warm 96C or so and DEAD NUTS on 32 bouncing to 35 but staying at 32-32 consistent. It was cool here in PA and I was using two box fans to cool it as it heated up to 96-110C or so. I watched Live View THREE times and when the Cold changed to Warm Engine in the little window of Live View I was at 32 or so all three times and watched it, dead on the laptop on a chair at eye level. Even went as far on the last two to put the filter and end cap on the Doherty as I had once suspected the difference of the air ram of the Doherty, and nothing else, would change when a filter and the end cap is installed, nope all three times as I said above.

Ran 2 logs tonight and WTF, log showing IAC at 25-27 :wacko:


It takes FOREVER for it to reach 96C. DO I have to wait it of for the 160 sec setting to expire before I can ride? Will it set on a longer ride?

I will say I am on the base 95 map, only 20-25 miles, no front trim done yet have the rear cylinder offset to -1, dropped advance in 2000-2500 by 1% and 2750 by .5% to help smooth the map.

Strange thing is it seems to run well even at this stage of starting over, but this IAC drives me INSANE.
Hey LAF, and all you other TCFI junkies!!
Your question on BLM at 89% means exactly what you think. According to the AFR you have set for that cell, you are running slightly rich as the BLM is telling you that to acheive the desired pulse width to attain the corresponding AFR, you need to reduce the fuel as all you need is 89% of what you are actually running. To correct to get to the desired fuel for that AFR, I'm sure that you know how to apply the BLM to get to 100% which means you are dead on balls, (at least for the calcs that the BLM has made for you up to that point).
To get to a desired 95% BLM the easiest way is to apply the BLM to the Alpha N to get to 100% and then add a small amount of fuel to the main fuel map and then LIVE VIEW to see where you are on BLM. I assume that you are trying to get the average BLM at idle mode down to around 95% to get good idle and are monitoring it Live View right after the bike gets out of the idle program and is warm enough to get into the main fuel tables. Once you get there then lock out the 0% throttle column to be eliminated from any future adjustments that you may make with the BLM tables. And just a hint, lock out the 2% TP also as this row does not calc the BLM or AFR correctly in most builds. Simply smooth them manually as the BLM is going to tell you to remove fuel from this area when, in fact, you may actually need more.
A sticky for the TCFI techheads....... Wow!! Let's have a poll to see who is the first one is that gets a one way ticket to the asylum from fugging with the TCFI too much.

All the best!

G
 

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declel popping

I finally got rid of the decel popping by adding some advance in the far left advance verticle column.

I looked at the TPS%, the RPM while riding and experiencing the decel popping and then applied some more advance to the areas (where the log shows I was decellerating) where the decel popping occured. Gone now. Richening the top horizontal row of the alpha n was performed earlier and had a beneficial effect too, but I noticed that when I let off the thottle the bike seemed to not decellerate (which did not feel comfortable) as quickly so that led me to the advance table.

FWIW.

Seabrook
 

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Nice to ride again :-)
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This is one of the the front cylinder log files to do the trim. Would love to hear what you guys see and any tips you may have. Still have a few to go.

Couple of questions.

If you have the rear cylinder offset to -1 should you set it to 0 while doing front trim or does it matter?

How many trim logs have you used, does it do much good to do more then 6-8? I don't think I have used more then 6 or 7. I try to do runs of different types, stop/go, highway, WOT, one of just running RPM steady at as many areas I can. Is this logical to you all?
 

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I love BIG headlights...
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Wahoo we have a sticky! Now if would only get my IID upgrade, I was number 22 I think maybe this week! has anyone else noticed a difference since we have all gone to 10% ethananol. I had to back off the timing, still don't have it right. Is everyone running -1 on the rear cylinder. I had been running zero.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
Haven't noticed anything on the 10% fuel. I run 0 on the rear cylinder, and haven't even experimented with it.
 

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Premium Member
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Just out of curiosity... What are the odds that the TPS and IAC won't need adjusting?

And since I know they will, let me make sure I know what I'm doing. I have an '06 bike.

For the TPS sensor. If I need to adjust it, then I need to remove the sensor and cut off the little tab off of the back of the sensor. Then I need to enlarge the two holes so that I can rotate the sensor until the correct values show up on the computer screen.

For the IAC control, I adjust the idle stop screw... where is that? I know where it is on a carb, but the manual doesn't show it on the throttle body, can someone describe what I'm looking for? A pictue would be nice too.

Last night, I got the three cables installed into the main harness (The GF was coming over, so I didn't have time to go further). Tonight, I take the pipes off and have the bungs welded to them. While I have them off, I also plan on scraping up the polish and hitting them with a coat of flat black engine paint. Tomorrow, I finish painting... Friday I go to a baseball game, then Saturday morning I start tuning this thing... Then hopefully I get to spend the rest of the weekend riding since next weekend I'm heading to Houston.

The best news so far, is the cables were vary simple to install, and the stock ECM still runs the bike.
 

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Okay. I answered my last question on my own. I used the search function, and there is a very good set of instructions for the TPS and idle screw.

Now, for a completely different question.

I have the O2 sensors installed, and all that that entails, but the WEGO II comes with enough extra length in the cable I could probably mount the little box under the tail light...

Is it okay to shorten the length in all the cables? Voltage and ground I know it is. The Blue and White cables are data cables, so my guess there is yes. And the two O2 cables are calibrated for Free air anyways, so they should be okay to shorten as well. I'll solder and shrink wrap all connections.

I just want to get someone else's opinion before I start hacking cables.

I get to start calibrating and running the engine tomorrow! I hooked the new computer up last night just to check there were no codes being thrown... there weren't. I also went ahead and took a look at the TPS value... without touching it, it's at .65, so I'll be taking it off and doing the modifications to it too.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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1,632 Posts
Call DTT and ask them. I didn't. I just looped them and zip tied.
 

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It's ALIVE! I still need to adjust the IAC just a little... right now it's running at 20 when the bike is all warmed up.

The TPS was easy to modify and set. The idle screw is going to take a little more work. On the '06 EFI, instead of having a cap over the hole, it's using a "tamper-proof torx" screw. I went to the dealer to see about getting one... no joy. I actually have one of these tools from work, but the problem is that the screw head only has five points instead of 6, so I think there's something else. Any idea where I can find a five-pointed torx key? I tried putting a nut on the back, but that will only allow me to adjust the IAC to a smaller value. I need to find a way of backing the screw out some.

Thanks bbrowncode... I just zip tied them too for now... I'll call DTT on Monday and find out if they can be shortened.
 
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