I would have them install H-beam rods.
Darkhorse Work Recommendations
I have an 07 twin cam motor with the stage 4 103 kit out of an FXDB. It's in need of work, and I want to get Darkhorse to do the bottom end. I'll be putting about 100\100 HP\TQ to it.
I'm gonna to drop it in my '08 FLHTCU and run geared cams.
The following is the work I'm going to for sure get done:
Timken crankcase bearings
Plug & weld crankpin
Torrington cam bearings
S&S piston jets
I'm looking for reliability over anything else. Im fine doing top end work, but I'm out of my depth on the bottom end, which is why I want it to be an absolutely bulletproof build.
Any advice on additional work\ upgrades I can get done to increase the reliability?
If I get a brand new cam plate, is there any benefit to getting the crank bushing line bored?
Has anyone heard of cases where its more cost effective to buy a reworked crank?
If the crank I send in needs a lot of work, will the shop give me a credit for keeping my crank as a core if I buy one of thier reworked units?
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
I'm gonna to drop it in my '08 FLHTCU and run geared cams.
The following is the work I'm going to for sure get done:
Timken crankcase bearings
Plug & weld crankpin
Torrington cam bearings
S&S piston jets
I'm looking for reliability over anything else. Im fine doing top end work, but I'm out of my depth on the bottom end, which is why I want it to be an absolutely bulletproof build.
Any advice on additional work\ upgrades I can get done to increase the reliability?
If I get a brand new cam plate, is there any benefit to getting the crank bushing line bored?
Has anyone heard of cases where its more cost effective to buy a reworked crank?
If the crank I send in needs a lot of work, will the shop give me a credit for keeping my crank as a core if I buy one of thier reworked units?
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
i wouldn't rework a Harley twin cam crank
.
.
For the best reliability, I'd just buy a Man-o-War crank from Darkhorse.
Yes, it's more $- buy once, cry once.
Yes, it's more $- buy once, cry once.
Agree with above, I wouldn't use an oem set of wheels if I was chasing high output reliability.
But if you must, then replace the pin and the rods, then weld it.
You leave that oem pin in there and you might just as well put a set of HP103 cams in it and make 100 hp with the stock parts. That way you wont loose much when the pin starts shedding.
But if you must, then replace the pin and the rods, then weld it.
You leave that oem pin in there and you might just as well put a set of HP103 cams in it and make 100 hp with the stock parts. That way you wont loose much when the pin starts shedding.
Buy cheap - Buy twice.For the best reliability, I'd just buy a Man-o-War crank from Darkhorse.
Yes, it's more $- buy once, cry once.
I will look into that.
Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
I'd ask Darkhorse their recommendation.
S&S has an interesting video on their site about the strength of welded cranks.....
TIMINATOR
TIMINATOR
I know its not what you're looking for but S&S sold me with thier reputation and also the videos as previously mentioned. Money is yours but an informed decision is priceless. As for cam plates, S&S come with bushings. I look at them as a replaceable wear piece in the event it is needed. I went with cam plate and oil pump. Best of luck on your project!!
There is a time and place for either a Darkhorse reworked stock or Man O War, S&S, or P3R crank. For a build such as this I would be suggesting the lower cost option, stock rebuilt.
So what does Dark Horse get to rebuild a crank? TIMINATOR
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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