[Rthomson]

I ride an 03 Fatboy with REVTEC wheels (pic attached). The bike really doesn't track well at all. Even with Metzlers. My tech told me on my last tire change that my custom wheels have old fashioned bearings (not sealed bearings) and this will cause the bike to feel loose. My question is; does anyone out there know if I can replace the bearings and races in my REVTEC wheels with new style sealed bearings safely?

Thankx and happy holidays to all!

 

[Rthomson]

oops, attached the wrong pic. Here is a pic of the wheel in case it matters.

 

[Ed Y]

I've been riding these things since 1956 and I've never had that kind of problem with Timken tapered bearings in the wheels provided the end play is set correctly. Personally, I think the tech is wrong. Did he even know enough to check end play on the wheels you have?? Was the end play checked when the wheels were new??

 

[Rthomson]

I know the bearing end play was checked when the last set of tires were replaced. I am assuming that it was done properly.

 

[Ed Y]

Don't know what else to tell you except that properly set up timken tapered wheel bearings will not cause a problem.

 

[84FXRP]

I ride an 03 Fatboy with REVTEC wheels (pic attached). The bike really doesn't track well at all. Even with Metzlers. My tech told me on my last tire change that my custom wheels have old fashioned bearings (not sealed bearings) and this will cause the bike to feel loose. My question is; does anyone out there know if I can replace the bearings and races in my REVTEC wheels with new style sealed bearings safely?

Thankx and happy holidays to all!

I never had a problem with the Timken bearings on any of my older bikes. First, I would check the usual suspects: air in tires pressure set to factory specs, rear axle centered in swing arm, steering head bearings properly adjusted.

Next obtain a dial (spring type) micrometer and base and measure both wheels for run out.

Lastly, pull the wheels and measure the axles for wheel bearing end play. I presume you have a genuine Harley-Davidson Service Manual specific for your year and model bike. Use the end play values and service procedures specified in the manual. You will save some time if you get some suitable spacers so that the end play can be checked without mounting the wheels on the bike.

The first places I would check, is the alignment of the axle in the rear fork and the adjustment of the steering head bearing.

Was the bike OK before you switched wheels?

 

[Rthomson]

I bought it with the wheels on it.

 

[Fourcats]

When they checked the "end play" they should have come back with a #. The tolerance for stock bearings is .002/.006. The tech saying "old fashioned bearings will cause it to feel loose" is BS. If they are shimmed and lubed correctly with the axle nut torqued to spec, they are fine. -2$en#e-

 

[Ozzie In Arabia]

I've been riding these things since 1956 and I've never had that kind of problem with Timken tapered bearings in the wheels provided the end play is set correctly. Personally, I think the tech is wrong. Did he even know enough to check end play on the wheels you have?? Was the end play checked when the wheels were new??

Hello Ed Y, how are you my friend? all good I hope and happy new year to you and your family.

Got agree here, the wheel side movement would be physically noticable to the eye before a "tracking" issue occured, if the bearings were faulty.

Because the bike is 2nd hand..............and pretty much repeating what 84fxr has stated.....you got to trial and error and eliminate each possible off the list.
Fork Oil correct type and filled to correct height?
Frame and/or swing arm bent from accident and re-straightened?
Steering Head Bearings over tightened causing the balls to either cut grooves in races or crack/split races?
Swing arm bush worn out?
Rear shocks worn out/defective, not adjusted correctly?
Rear Wheel not adjusted properly or drive side has moved forward underload or rear axle loose.

I just get a wire coat hanger and wrap one end around the axle and fit the nut back with enough pressure to hold everything together and taper cut the other end with plyers then twist it up to point against the rim lip to check wheel out or round...............works as good as anything else and costs nothing.

All the best, Ozzie

 

[Ed Y]

Hello Ed Y, how are you my friend? all good I hope and happy new year to you and your family.

Hey Ozzie, how are you? Everything fine here. Happy New Year to you and yours too.

 

[The_Snowman]

Doesn't solve your problem but interesting reading with good pictures
http://www.bikernet.com/garage/PageViewer.asp?PageID=655