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Discussion Starter #1
The cruise control on my 04 Road King classis has stopped working. I can still turn the system on, the red indicator light will go on, but the system will not set. Strangely, when I first turn my ignition on, the cruise control indicator light will come on green, blink a few times then go off. This is with the system switch in the "off" position. The brake lights still seem to work properly. Anybody have any ideas?
 
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To really diagnose this, you'd need the '04 Electrical manual, which is the one I don't have. The flash of the light sounds like an error code in the cruise module. On an '04, get it to the dealer, and have them take care of it under warranty (unless your two years is already up).

Harris
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I'm still under warranty. I was kinda hoping the problem was something easy like a disconnected wire or something. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Well, the cruise module is under your low-side side cover. You could certainly take a look at it, and see that the plug is in tightly. However, that flash of thhe indicator light sounds like the system is indicating a fault.

Harris
 

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It sounds like you need to go through the initialization process for the cruise control. The process is listed in the factory service manual. The process sets up the lenghts of the cables to make it work correctly. If there's too much slack in the cables when you first start up the bike the cruise won't work properly. Have you done any other mods to your bike recently like carb/efi work or replace the throttle/idle cables?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No, nothing has been changed in well over a year when I installed braided cables and RKII bars. Everything was working fine. It seemed to go out when I was trying to accelerate using the CC button. I guess something could of come loose? Thanks
 

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Well, I had a somewhat similar problem lately. My cruise stopped working on a long ride. The red light would come on but not the green, nor would it activate. I had decided to take it in as it was still within the two year waranty. Today, I was out and decided just for kicks to try the cruise and it worked??? Tried several times and like it never had a problem. Good I hadn't taken to the dealer as they would think I was crazy. I still think I have a problem, and hope it shows up again before May if it is going to.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just got my bike back from the dealer. Turns out it was a bad cruise control switch at the handlebar controls. Fortunately, it was covered under warranty. I hope this helps anyone else having trouble.
 

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HARLEYAARON said:
Just got my bike back from the dealer. Turns out it was a bad cruise control switch at the handlebar controls. Fortunately, it was covered under warranty. I hope this helps anyone else having trouble.
Very interesting. As I stated, my cruise mysteriously began working fine! Well, today on a ride, everything was working fine and then all of a sudden, the cruise began to accellerate the bike uncontrolably. Braking did shut it off, but it then would not activate again. Same thing that happened before. Hopefully it doesn't correct itself again before I can demonstrate for the dealer.
 

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Cable lash - a common problem?

I suggest that cable lash is a common problem. This is the second time it has happened to me. Cruise worked fine when the bike was turned off. Started it the next morning and the cruise stopped working.

Initially just after starting the bike, the green cruise light came on (with cruise sw set to off), then flickered and then went off. When riding, the cruise wouldn't work at all.

Performed the cable lash adjustment and everything works fine agian. Cruise light remained off following startup.

Base on my experience, cable lash is a weak link in the design of the cruise copntrol system. The cable lash adjustment procedure should be part of the owners manual. It's also an excellent system test. The controller and resume switch must work to do intialization.

If your cruise stops working unexpectedly, check the speedo following startup for the cruise light to illuminate. Re-intialize the cable lash first before tearing into the parts.
 

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fauskar said:
I suggest that cable lash is a common problem. This is the second time it has happened to me. Cruise worked fine when the bike was turned off. Started it the next morning and the cruise stopped working.

Initially just after starting the bike, the green cruise light came on (with cruise sw set to off), then flickered and then went off. When riding, the cruise wouldn't work at all.

Performed the cable lash adjustment and everything works fine agian. Cruise light remained off following startup.

Base on my experience, cable lash is a weak link in the design of the cruise copntrol system. The cable lash adjustment procedure should be part of the owners manual. It's also an excellent system test. The controller and resume switch must work to do intialization.

If your cruise stops working unexpectedly, check the speedo following startup for the cruise light to illuminate. Re-intialize the cable lash first before tearing into the parts.

Well, it has happened again. After adjusting the cables, the cruise started working fine until a long trip in August. After about 2,000 miles, it was off and on and now won't activate at all. Attemped cable adjustment, but can't seem to get the idle cable to get tight enough. Tried initialization as shown in the manual and doesn't seem to want to work. Of course, the warranty is over now by a couple months. Just found a cruise control diognostics and code procedure on another forum. Will give that a try before resorting to letting the dealer have the bike for a week.
 

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Not sure how true this is but I held the resume button in until the cable intialization routine increased the idle rpm. Took a few seconds before the intialization actually increased the rpm. Doesn't happen instanteously.

Mine too stopped working, after about 4K miles and for the second time now.

You're correct, if the intialization isn't working then you'll have to chase parts. Just make sure your idle cable (CC) isn't being pinched and causing the CC to loose positioning information first. The design seems to sensitive to changes in cable slack (good or bad).

I have found using a DVM at the CC module's cable works good for checking the peripheral (switches, brake...) for operation. It's all covered in the service manual.
 
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