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For the masking, you can find a lot of places that have sticker cutters that will cut you some masking film. A decent sign shop might do this for you too, especially if you provide the film. Or you could buy your own cutter, even the hobby grade machines should work to your sizes. If you have a maker space anywhere near you, might see if they have a vinyl cutting machine you could use.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
I've been on a wild goose chase acrylic activator for the Harley paint since I got it. Which is stupid, since it's available from HD. But the counterman recommended that I source it locally from an auto paint supplies dealer; that's what all the body shops he deals with do. I thought, "OK, no problem. I deal with a pretty good place nearby." Plus, the instructions say to use "a quality urethane grade reducer." The reducer isn't available from HD.

To make a long story short, I mixed up a tiny test batch today using the activator and reducer I have, which gets mixed at the same mix ratio that the HD paint calls for, and painted a little test panel with my air brush this afternoon. Tomorrow, I'll clear it; or maybe Thursday, depending on how things go with work tomorrow and how much time I have. Hopefully, it works just fine (which is what I expect). If not, I'll order the HD activator.

Meanwhile, I planned on priming my bags today, but by the time I got a fire going in the garage woodstove and was ready to mix primer, it was too late. I'm using epoxy primer and it needs to "induct" for an hour (when the temp is below 70° - 30 minutes when above 70°). It just wasn't going to work this afternoon.

Meanwhile, my Race Tech goodies showed up yesterday afternoon. So I can complete the front end upgrade.

I need to set aside some time to focus on this project and get it done!
 

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Discussion Starter #103
For the masking, you can find a lot of places that have sticker cutters that will cut you some masking film. A decent sign shop might do this for you too, especially if you provide the film. Or you could buy your own cutter, even the hobby grade machines should work to your sizes. If you have a maker space anywhere near you, might see if they have a vinyl cutting machine you could use.
I actually wondered if I took the lid and bag that's still mostly intact to a print shop, if they could make a couple of masks to get the flames done. I'm going to take a crack at doing it the "old school" way before I go down that road.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
I got the bags and lids in primer yesterday. Didn't do such a great job, I got some minor sags on 3 of 4 pieces, so I have a little sanding to do today before shooting color and a couple light coats of clear.
20200117_135529.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #106
I hoped to get color and clear on the bags today, but I didn't do such a great job with the primer: I ended up sanding minor sags smooth on 3 of the 4 pieces. Epoxy primer doesn't sand all that well - not like urethane primer/surface, anyhow. So that took all afternoon. I am all set to paint tomorrow. Hopefully I can make that happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
You should buy a pellet heater for more time in the garage.

Sent from my moto g(7) supra using Tapatalk
I don't really know anything about pellet heaters. It's off topic, but tell me a little bit about it. Why would one of those be better than a wood stove?

I have a pretty good stove, BTW. It's relatively old - 1978 - a Pine Barren stove with heat exchanger and fan.
 

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I don't really know anything about pellet heaters. It's off topic, but tell me a little bit about it. Why would one of those be better than a wood stove?

I have a pretty good stove, BTW. It's relatively old - 1978 - a Pine Barren stove with heat exchanger and fan.

Most self feed.....but I like a wood stove myself.
 

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Most self feed.....but I like a wood stove myself.
I like a wood stove too as I have plenty of limbs falling during storms. Just the right diameter with no splitting. Or it could be I am a closet arsonist. One of our members who used to live in Vermont used a pellet heater for his garage. No more cutting wood go to Walmart and get a bag. What is the cost of a heater and pellets? Dunno. I am 66 so I will make out with my on sale Tractor Supply wood stove.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
The self feeding feature would be nice. But I'm with you, I like the wood stove. The one I have in the garage is a Pine Barren, which were manufactured very close by here, in Chatsworth, NJ. These things are locally famous for being excellent stoves. All that said, I think I'm going to supplement it with a kerosene fired bullet heater to get some heat up quickly.

I spent all day yesterday painting. I started out painting an empty lacquer thinner can for practice, which came out pretty good. Then, I moved on to some small parts: fairing lowers which I've had for several years, put on in the winter months, and then remove again. They don't get used much, so I don't really care all that much how they look. In fact, until now, they've been unpainted ABS plastic. They were excellent practice parts, and they came out more or less OK. So I moved on to the bags. They looked pretty good, too, until they started to run. I tried to put a lighter coat on, but got horrible orange peel. To make a long story short, I will be sanding the bags smooth and shooting them again. Meanwhile, I learned a few things I was doing absolutely wrong from the Autobody Store Forums. Those guys over there know their $hit, and are very helpful. Much like here. So, I'll "do over" on the bags, applying my newfound knowledge. Hopefully I'll get a tolerable result! I might buy a better gun; I need a mini-gun anyway for the flames... We'll see about that. NOw that I know what I was doing wrong, I should be able to get a decent finish from my Horrible Freight cheapo gun. It was cold again today, started out in the low 20's and didn't get above 34, I don't think. I wasn't in the mood for sanding, so I worked on my front end upgrade a little bit. I finished up drilling the compression damping holes in one damper rod, deburred all the holes, and then assembled the fork leg and tube completely. Except for tightening the damper rod bolt, because I need a long 12mm hex driver socket to tighten it. I have a 'standard' length 12mm; not a long. Snap-On is going to sell me another tool..... I might buy a HF spray gun, but I buy quality hand tools.

So, I set the pre-load on the Race Tech Gold Valve "cartridge emulators"; assembled the damper rod/lower leg/tube assembly including new bushing and seal, dropped in the Gold Valve and the single rate Race Tech spring, then measured and cut the spring preload spacer and installed it and the cap. I called Race Tech because the printed instructions that came with the front end kit called for 2-3/8" preload, which I doubted I could accomplish; plus, I remembered reading something more like 28mm on the web site. The guy I got on the phone confirmed that 28mm is the right number. Good thing, because it ain't easy starting the fork tube cap while pushing it down against the spring. No way could I compress the spring 2 and a half inches and get the cap screwed in! Obviously, I gotta wait until I get the long 12mm before I can fill the thing with fork oil. But I slid the tube up into the triple trees, tightened the pinch bolts and bolted the caliper on. An added benefit of this front end is that I'm gaining about an inch of free length in the forks. I'm hoping this translates to an inch more ride height and therefore lean angle. We'll see just how much once I get the sag finalized. RT provides a handful of preload spacers so it's fairly easy to increase preload (and therefore ride height) without having to cut new spacers. RT provides plastic pipe for the spacers, too, BTW. I bought some aluminum tubing for spacers, but figured the plastic would be lighter. Plus, it's easy to get a nice, square cut using a wood cutting chop saw. I am going to have to get new fender bolts, as the new legs take socket head through-bolts from the outside. The fender lugs aren't threaded like every other HD with a hydraulic front end I've worked on...

Hopefully, I'll get some shop time tomorrow and get the other side of the fork assembled. Couple of pix to follow in a separate post.
 

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You paint the run down to the bottom where it is not noticeable. You have to do It when it is wet. See it dry get out the sander. I saw this done on a few vehicles.

The other and then I am finished is get a stand-up kerosene heater putting out 28,000 BTU's instead of the smelly torpedo. You might have to get one online as NJ has a fukupped law about everything.

tarheel
 

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I have a gas wall heater in the house so I am not worried about heat. Gas doesn't care if the back door is open. My wife has an oxygen machine and so does a few neighbors . We are on the priority list for power. During the last hurricane we were an island of power lights never blinked while those around us had no power for 3 weeks.

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Get yourself a Binks or DeBilviss HVLP gun so that you can lay down the paint with quality. Get either the gravity feed cups or pressure cups. I use the pressure cups for everything from water born primers to filled polyurethanes (1 qt. weighs 10 pounds) which takes a carbide needle and cap.
 

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Get yourself a Binks or DeBilviss HVLP gun so that you can lay down the paint with quality. Get either the gravity feed cups or pressure cups. I use the pressure cups for everything from water born primers to filled polyurethanes (1 qt. weighs 10 pounds) which takes a carbide needle and cap.
Gravity guns are SO much easier to clean.....
 

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Nah, run some MEK through it, strip it, brush it all out, wipe it off and your done. My 25 year old gun looks brand new except for underside of the hanging hook. I actually built a touch-up gun with a pressure cup for some of the specialty materials I work with. MAG RAM, think stealthy stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Get yourself a Binks or DeBilviss HVLP gun so that you can lay down the paint with quality. Get either the gravity feed cups or pressure cups. I use the pressure cups for everything from water born primers to filled polyurethanes (1 qt. weighs 10 pounds) which takes a carbide needle and cap.
I've actually been seriously considering getting this pair from the Eastwood Company: Concours Pro Paint and Detail Gun with Accessories


I've been getting some really good help with the paint from the autobodystore.com forum and a particular guy on there. I was on the phone with him today and we've exchanged several emails, including me sending him pix of my bags during the sanding process. I just this evening finished sanding them and covered them with a few coats of High Build primer. The ABS bags have so many high spots, low spots, ripples, etc! I'm hoping I can sand the high build and be ready to shoot color again tomorrow. Today, I sanded off just about all the orange peel. I also ended up going through the primer to the ABS in multiple places, despite trying to be careful not to. Some of this is the result of the high spots I mentioned. I spot primed those places with epoxy primer using my air brush. Then used my Horrible Freight primer gun to spray the HB. This gun, too, I upped the pressure on from the last time I used it. I ran the inlet pressure between 40 and 45 with the trigger pulled. The primer went on VERY nicely.

One very important thing I learned that I was doing very wrong: I interpreted the pressure "at the air cap" on technical data sheets as gun inlet pressure. The HD paint has a totally half-assed data sheet, which gives no info on gun setup. However, I looked at a few of the other data sheets I have and found that most recommend HVLP guns be set up at 8-10 psig at the air cap. I was setting mine up at 10 psig at the air inlet. There's apparently a big pressure drop across the gun, so the pressure at the air cap (which is the nozzle end of the gun) is much lower than inlet pressure. Good guns apparently will give you an idea what the pressure is at the air cap with an inlet pressure of "X", but the Horrible Freight gun doesn't give any of that info. However, my new friend from the auto body forum suggests running it at closer to 30 psig on the inlet. I talked to a buddy of mine who has the same cheapo gun, and he says he runs it around there as well. I'm also going to reduce the material flow. More pressure and less paint should make it atomize better. We'll see how it turns out. Unless I decide to skip color, sand the lids, and focus on getting the front end back together while I wait for the Eastwood (or some other choice) guns to arrive.......It seems to me that in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing, even a Horrible Freight gun should be able to produce a tolerable finish. I know for sure I could screw up a paint job just fine with e big dollar gun. I want to learn the proper techniques...
 
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