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2010 Harley Street Glide
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Discussion Starter #1
As the subject says my Crankshaft runnout 2010 96' is .007"
I have been chasing this vibration all summer with my ESP and the dealer kept saying it was normal. So I finally took it elsewhere.
I was going to.put cams and exhaust on it so I had them cut the rods out to cut the layout down.
The tolerance is .012"
No esp cause it is below the HD tolerance.
I was going to put 255 cams in it and a SuperTrapp 2 into1 exhaust but now wonder if that will make the issue worse.
How bad is .007" ruunout can it be left and be ok?
Stressed.... I don't have 2500-3000 grand to put into it.:(
 

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My 07 96 in.had .0088 in. runout when I went 103 in. It was low mileage.I had the crank trued and welded.
Stock cranks are a gamble and the more runout the larger the gamble.
It's a crap shoot.If it had that much runout as delivered there is a better chance of it being ok.If the runout was less when new than now it will just be a matter of time before it gets even worse.

That's just my opinion.
 

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You need to measure the other side too. Then have the rod fit on the pin looked at by someone with experience working with cranks. The run out is what hammers on all the stuff down stream. Pinion shaft runout kills pumps and tensioners as well as wearing cam plates. Sprocket shaft runout is what kills comps and primary bearings. Sprocket shafts tend to be worse than the pinion shafts. And then there is the sub par crank pins and raceless rods. The twin cam crank is really a fine example of what happens when accountants start cutting costs.

At 007 its right on the edge of being a door stop. But if the rods are still snug and the other side is no worse, its runnable. I would not look at trying to put a big power build on top of it.

A new hi quality crank is close to $1500, but its the best money you can spend on a twin cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need to measure the other side too. Then have the rod fit on the pin looked at by someone with experience working with cranks. The run out is what hammers on all the stuff down stream. Pinion shaft runout kills pumps and tensioners as well as wearing cam plates. Sprocket shaft runout is what kills comps and primary bearings. Sprocket shafts tend to be worse than the pinion shafts. And then there is the sub par crank pins and raceless rods. The twin cam crank is really a fine example of what happens when accountants start cutting costs.

At 007 its right on the edge of being a door stop. But if the rods are still snug and the other side is no worse, its runnable. I would not look at trying to put a big power build on top of it.

A new hi quality crank is close to $1500, but its the best money you can spend on a twin cam.
Thanks for the response, the other side was looked at and I was told it was ok. However, kept saying the primary side of the crankshaft is splines and hard to get a reading. I asked him if he cold tell if the crank is sisored and he said same thing. Hard to measure due to splinned shaft..
How can it be measured on the primary side d for sisoring?
Also I didn't hinkle to ask if the .007" was with the cam plate in or out. If 007" complqte out it is even worse correct?
 

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Bad is bad why hunt for better, one side is enough to condemn it? I personally fix them if they are over .006 TIR measured in the engine. The centers in the pinion on many of the late models can't be trusted. It is easy to check the spline side just put a button point on the travel indicator. The indicator needs to be perpendicular to the shaft from both directions and centered, mounted to engine case not the lift or other appendages.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bad is bad why hunt for better, one side is enough to condemn it? I personally fix them if they are over .006 TIR measured in the engine. The centers in the pinion on many of the late models can't be trusted. It is easy to check the spline side just put a button point on the travel indicator. The indicator needs to be perpendicular to the shaft from both directions and centered, mounted to engine case not the lift or other appendages.
Should the runnout on the cam plate side be measured with the cam plate on or out?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have been looking at S&S crankshafts. I see the following
698-351 4-3/8” (Stock 96” &103") Stroke with Full-Width Rod Tops for 2007-Up 'A' Twin Cam® Engines - $1,548.95
AND
#698-353 4-3/8” (Stock 96” &103") Stroke with Tapered Rod Tops for 2007-Up 'A' Twin Cam® Engines - $1,548.95

What's the difference between the two and when would you use one over the other?
Is there another that would work better?
Thanks
 

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Thanks for the response, the other side was looked at and I was told it was ok. However, kept saying the primary side of the crankshaft is splines and hard to get a reading. I asked him if he cold tell if the crank is sisored and he said same thing. Hard to measure due to splinned shaft..
How can it be measured on the primary side d for sisoring?
Also I didn't hinkle to ask if the .007" was with the cam plate in or out. If 007" complqte out it is even worse correct?
We measure them on the tops of the splines. Then if it ends up working out to more than .005, we pull the comp and rotor and remeasure further in where the shaft is smooth. On the older scooters you can measure with the rotor on, but the magnets in the rotor can influence the measurement. They tend to make the crank want to auto center. Makes it hard to get repeatable readings.

Do not measure off of the center hole. They can be off by enough to condemn the crank.

The tapered rods fit tapered pistons. Straight rods fit straight pistons. Most, but not all aftermarket pistons are straight. The tapered piston is to aid in the effectiveness of oil cooling them by spraying oil on the undersides. And it saves a little weight, but I doubt the MoCo cared much about that. If you want to run Mhale pistons, you'll need tapered rods.
 

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The cold forged late model flywheels are lighter for cost savings. There are balance concerns potentially when mixing parts besides the fitment.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The cold forged late model flywheels are lighter for cost savings. There are balance concerns potentially when mixing parts besides the fitment.
[/QUOT
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the replies everyon. I did confirmthat the .007"was checked with the cam plate and oil pump removed.
Unfortunately, I don'thave $3000+ to throw at this bike at the moment. My daughter's illness is all out of pocket expense at the moment.
I was going to put cams and an exhaust on it but now wonder if I should in its current state if doing that will worsen things or potentially cause more strain on the system with this .007" runnout... thoughts..
I will have to save up some cash for a while. If I wanted to tackle this myself, what specialtools are needed besides a press and inner cam bearing tool.
Or if not something someone should do at home, how much can be done at home and what would you recommend be farmed out...
One thing I am wondering about is the R&R of the motor itself specifically when it come to installation back into the frame correctly.
 

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If you are on a tight budget and your flywheel has to be addressed you might consider getting a total rework by Darkhorse Crankworks. Some years ago I bought a used crank on US Ebay and had it sent to Darkhorse, the rework cost was less than 700 USD, and with shipping costs to Germany plus tax and customs fees it still was a bargain.

Armin.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I am surprised or maybe I shouldn't be, I have spoken to 3 HD dealers and they all have said, no problem at .007" runnout to install a cam like the SE255 for example....
 

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I am surprised or maybe I shouldn't be, I have spoken to 3 HD dealers and they all have said, no problem at .007" runnout to install a cam like the SE255 for example....
They will tell you so because their limit is 0,012 as per HD manual and by saying so the prevent someone with 0,008 0,009 to claim


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I am surprised or maybe I shouldn't be, I have spoken to 3 HD dealers and they all have said, no problem at .007" runnout to install a cam like the SE255 for example....

Originally the service limit was less than .012 When they went to the roller leftie bearing they opened up the spec. Originally the service limit was .003 at the bearing races and .004 on the end of the pinion. When they came out with that .012 spec, they also changed how it was measured.
 
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