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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I have looked at every board I can find to get info on the problems with
the Cranks - scissoring and run-out issues.

I have spoken to dealers and never seem to get a straight answer. They
just say, some do and some don't. Does the factory have a fix for this
issue?? Got to be costing them a bunch in warranty !!!!!

My question is, I am thinking of building the top end of my 07 this
winter. Nothing exotic, just the standard 103 build, with heads and cams.
Looking for the 107-110 hp area. Will I be driving around with the "pucker"
factor, waiting for this thing to puke?

I am just looking for some good info, to give me in-site if I will be throwing
good money after bad :hmmm:

Thanks In Advance
Geezer-Very Confused :hmmm:
 

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Premium Member
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161 Posts
Well i have a 2003 FLHTI, and my crankshaft had .020 runout. I developed a oil sumping problem after my build. My builder is a stand up guy and tore the engine back down and sent the crankshaft out to be trued and welded. I think we are going to be hearing alot more about crankshat runout after these high torque and HP builds get on the street next spring. all i would suggest is, If you have your cases split for the timken conversion, have the crankshaft trued and welded. A little extra spent during that time can save you alot of cash and down time later.




Ride Safe
 

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keithb505 said:
A little extra spent can save you alot of cash and down time later.

@gree: you can save money and time doing it right the first time, rather than repairing it the second time.



{salute( :spank: {salute(
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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2,021 Posts
keithb505 said:
Well i have a 2003 FLHTI, and my crankshaft had .020 runout. I developed a oil sumping problem after my build. My builder is a stand up guy and tore the engine back down and sent the crankshaft out to be trued and welded. I think we are going to be hearing alot more about crankshat runout after these high torque and HP builds get on the street next spring. all i would suggest is, If you have your cases split for the timken conversion, have the crankshaft trued and welded. A little extra spent during that time can save you alot of cash and down time later.




Ride Safe
exact same issue with my 03 FLSTFI after it was built. If you are near or over 100/100, it is a crap shoot as to how long it will hold together. If I had it to do over I would have checked the crank and had the Timken done first, and saved the pump, camplate, etc. along with hours of cleaning out metal fragments.
 

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Cranks

The problem is also that even untouched OE bikes, are experiencing issues with owners, jumping on the binders too hard in 6th gear, and it pulls on the sprocket shaft so hard that they will shift the wheels on the pin. Never had that problem with an Evo or Shovel. You could pour the coals to one of those builds and the cranks never acted up. We did, although, used to weld the crank on our racer, but that was in a different environment altogather.
 

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Just out of curiosity, I thought those bearings were only rated for a max of 100hp by Harley. Anyone know if thats true or not?

Really sucks how the quality has gone down but the price keeps going up. Im just going to drive mine till it takes a dump, then fix it to last a lifetime.
 

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We have 3 in our shop right now with excessive runout. One is an S&S 106 that had .048 runout along with a shattered oil pump gear. Another is a Zippers supplied 120" with .0065 runout (gear drive cams so it was REAL noisey). Third one is a 2007 103" with just over .010. We always check them without the cam cover.
If I was building one for myself with over 100 hp, it would have a welded crank. Hard to convince many customers of that until they experience it for themselves. It's a lot cheaper to do it now than to have to tear it down when (not if) it happens. JMHO
 

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It seems more widespread than postings.Some owners might not even realize an out of true set.Some have posted about oil puking out A/C,started out slightly,others have said it hurt to ride bike because vibration was so bad.These were the more severe cases.Acouple thousands out may never be felt by owner but oil pump will eventually show the signs.Sure HD shouldnt warrant bike beyond stock setup ut like was posted here it has happened to stock bikes.Dont see how HD will tackle these other than fixing the ones that have failed or are out of their new limits.
 

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HAWGZILLA said:
If I was building one for myself with over 100 hp, it would have a welded crank. Hard to convince many customers of that until they experience it for themselves. It's a lot cheaper to do it now than to have to tear it down when (not if) it happens. JMHO
I agree! My build is over 100hp and I don't even worry about my crank and runout anymore because it is welded and timken bearing installed.

Regards,
NC
 

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Delinquent
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GPO03FatBoy said:
exact same issue with my 03 FLSTFI after it was built. If you are near or over 100/100, it is a crap shoot as to how long it will hold together. If I had it to do over I would have checked the crank and had the Timken done first, and saved the pump, camplate, etc. along with hours of cleaning out metal fragments.
Oh..crap!

If I take it apart..I gotta go BIGGER...crap.
 

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ovanay elinquentday
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vafatboy said:
Oh..crap!

If I take it apart..I gotta go BIGGER...crap.
oh c'mon! You know you want to go bigger!!!

Besides, by the time you get ready, I'll either have all the tools, or will have figured out a way to get things done...
 

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GPO03FatBoy said:
exact same issue with my 03 FLSTFI after it was built. If you are near or over 100/100, it is a crap shoot as to how long it will hold together. If I had it to do over I would have checked the crank and had the Timken done first, and saved the pump, camplate, etc. along with hours of cleaning out metal fragments.
Same problem with my 05, 025 runout.
 

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"07 Dyna with bent crank due to excessive HP. Run-out would have not helped
'07 Street Glide with 24Thou run-out on crank. Replaced by HD, but i'm putting in a bulletproof crank instead and getting the cases bored and doing the Timken as well.

karlrockdrain
 

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IronButt
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6,364 Posts
We have a 08 dyna here now that has 58 miles on it . I will post the specs when I get it apart first of next week. We are prepping the crank and doing a timken in it. As well bump to a 107.
 

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XLIII
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10,078 Posts
BTW, the six at my local dealer weren't excessive runout, that was 6 that actually spun, shifted, whatever you want to call it.
 

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Onegeezer said:
I have looked at every board I can find to get info on the problems with
the Cranks - scissoring and run-out issues.

I have spoken to dealers and never seem to get a straight answer. They
just say, some do and some don't. Does the factory have a fix for this
issue?? Got to be costing them a bunch in warranty !!!!!

My question is, I am thinking of building the top end of my 07 this
winter. Nothing exotic, just the standard 103 build, with heads and cams.
Looking for the 107-110 hp area. Will I be driving around with the "pucker"
factor, waiting for this thing to puke?

I am just looking for some good info, to give me in-site if I will be throwing
good money after bad :hmmm:

Thanks In Advance
Geezer-Very Confused :hmmm:
I had a 103 build. 97 hp. 104 TQ. Sliped the crank at 2000 miles.
 

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Onegeezer said:
My question is, I am thinking of building the top end of my 07 this
winter. Nothing exotic, just the standard 103 build, with heads and cams.
Looking for the 107-110 hp area. Will I be driving around with the "pucker"
factor, waiting for this thing to puke?

QUOTE]

My experience has shown me I wouldn't consider a future build without figuring in the crank work and the Timken upgrade. My "05" 98" build slipped the wheels and tore up my cam gear. .038" runout.

Maybe If I had taken it a little easier with the way I ride it wouldn't have happened.......but what fun would that be?

Rick​
 

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GoFast!
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Where can I buy Falicon and Darkhorse stock? :wootdnc:
 
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