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I'm Paid Up...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got the aluminum craftsman cycle lift because my lowered bike won't fit the "red" craftsman lift. The new lift lowers to 3 1/2 inches (after you file the front rods down). Made in China. The saddle is 1 inch narrower and 1 inch shorter than the steel red unit for $89. The girls bike wont fit cause her downtubes are wider than HD's. There is no provision for locking the unit so it won't slide around when working. Anyone owning this jack have any suggestions or comments. Seems like there are good points about each jack, but neither are great.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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1,901 Posts
I have the red/black craftsman lift and love it. Works great. I would recommend getting a lift that has a mechanical locking ability. Its like having jack stands under your car when working. The piston on the lifts aren't designed to hold the bike up indefinitly.

Some people have had some success with lowered bikes and the red/black lift by removing the casters/wheels on the lift. The lift won't slide around afterwards, but it should be ok. Also, if you hold the bike upright when positioning the lift, it should give you some more clearance.

As with any jack, positioning the lift properly and strapping it down when the bike is on the lift is key. You don't want your bike fall down, go booom...

Good luck...
 

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We use the aluminum model daily. No problem with it trying to move around.
It does have a locking device towards the end of the handle to keep from lowering accidentally.
 

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05 Deuce
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263 Posts
I have the Sears red'n black lift, and it's a good value. I sit on and bring my bike upright, kick the lift under, use the handle to pump the pedal a couple of times, and it's on. After checking balance and securing it with straps, I wheel that bad boy around my garage like a frigging lawn mower.
I've had it up in the air high and left it for days, without any problems. I will admit, the assembly instructions were lame, and there is a bit of slop in design, but overall it's beefy enough. I can think of a few other things that $80 was wasted on. $140 for a pretty aluminum lift, hmmmm!
I'd rather spend a few extra bucks and get the table lift.
 

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I'm Paid Up...
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1,732 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Clarification...the aluminum lift has a lock for leaving the jack lifted..it has NO provision for keeping the jack from moving around on the floor, like the red one has.. that's concerning to me..
 

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DR_DEUCE said:
it has NO provision for keeping the jack from moving around on the floor, like the red one has..
True. But, the surprise for me was just how much pushing was required to get it to move around the floor while on the jack. I used mine to push into a tight corner for winter storage. It took quite a bit of steam and didn't roll easily.

Once you have it on the jack and assuming a flat floor, it isn't going to roll around by itself.
 

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Hey Bountyhunter...whats that plate floorboard thingy on the engine guard of that sweet ride of yours?
 

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I have both lifts, the red one for my Classic, the new one from Sears for the wife's Sportster. The new one works much better for getting under her frame without having to drive on a couple of boards to get the height up. The only thing about the new one is the turning of the bar to lower, that sucker will come down fast if you turn too fast, make sure you're holding on to the bike. I also think the new one rolls around the garage easier.
 

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Captain Bligh said:
True. But, the surprise for me was just how much pushing was required to get it to move around the floor while on the jack. I used mine to push into a tight corner for winter storage. It took quite a bit of steam and didn't roll easily.

Once you have it on the jack and assuming a flat floor, it isn't going to roll around by itself.

Agreed - many garage floors have a slight grade (mine does), but nowhere near enough to cause this lift to roll on its own.

John
 

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Here We Go, Steelers
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64 Posts
I stared at the steel and aluminum craftsman jacks at Sears for about an hour before I decided on the aluminum model. The employees probably thought I was crazy and/or plotting how to steal the thing.

I was a little concerned the first time I used it because my frame needs to be carefully lined up on the jack in order to get it properly centered. But, it is always a good idea to triple check everything before you engage in something that could be potentially disasterous.

Other than having a small lifting plate, I love my jack. It does require some serious effort to roll the bike around the garage, but I'm never worried about it rolling away on me.
 

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I have the $99 sears red jack and it works great. For a Dyna you need to get the frame blocks from your dealer that allows enough clearance to prevent lifting the bike on the trans case. I think the blocks are $25.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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KBFXDLI said:
I have the $99 sears red jack and it works great. For a Dyna you need to get the frame blocks from your dealer that allows enough clearance to prevent lifting the bike on the trans case. I think the blocks are $25.
Softails have a similar product (part #94675-99) so the lift doesn't hit the shock obsorvers.
 
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