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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read many posts concerning oil coolers/ high oil temps. Is it more beneficial to spend the cash and to tune the EFi with a PCIII to get a richer fuel mixture than to buy an oil cooler? I have been seeing 240 as a high temp. I have a 05 Ultra Classic.
 

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Hellbound Train
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5,595 Posts
You are in Florida, get an oil cooler and run Synthetic, your motor will love you. Dumping more gas is not the answer unless you are in fact running lean. With the loss in MPG and the cost of gas, how long would it take to pay for a SERT.
 

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Go with the SERT. I had no intention of spending $500 to get my brand new engine to run properly, but there is no use in trying to fight H-D, or the EPA.

It makes me sick to have a bike with 7500 miles on it and hear popping on decel, 275 degree oil temps, header pipes that glow cherry red...

I agree that the SERT will pay for itself many times over.
 

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I put the PCIII on my Roadglide, which also has a cooler, and it dropped the temps in traffic another 20 degrees. Seldom gets above 220 now, with 200-210 the norm, even in traffic.
 

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EASY DOES IT
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One more way but certainly more expensive and addictive is to have your heads ported/flowed...I refuse to held responsible for what that will cost you in the long run...but we're working on a 12 step program: HP, horsepower anonymous:whistle:
 

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I've got a oil cooler, PC111 and reworked heads. My biggest gains in lowering the temperature were when I installed the SBC heads and finally found a good dyno tuner.
 

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I agree with Marvin.

AMS heads and Andrews 26G cams did for my 95" Ultra what 2 oil coolers, 2 Power Commanders, an SERT, four different exhaust systems, and a bunch of wonder mods could not. While all those things helped a little, the biggest gains in temp control, performance, and overall operation were made by getting ride of my .203 cams, and going with AMS heads.

Mark
 

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I have an 05 FXDWGI with SE 16 Gauge exhaust and have a SE 103 Stage 1 coming, and to get my monies worth it will get the oil cooler, SE A/C, and a SERT dyno tune.

Cooler temps mean better tuning and more effecient power.
 

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DCRANER said:
a SE 103 Stage 1 coming,
Cooler temps .
if i am reading right, all the posts are saying that HD/SE heads which are EPA compliant run higher temps and are more restrictive to create those temps, to burn clean & have low emissions

(the SE bikes run the 103's and are EPA certified, correct?)

so getting an aftermarket head lowers temps/raises flow/helps HP/TQ.

or am i reading it wrong?
 

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04ctd said:
if i am reading right, all the posts are saying that HD/SE heads which are EPA compliant run higher temps and are more restrictive to create those temps, to burn clean & have low emissions

(the SE bikes run the 103's and are EPA certified, correct?)

so getting an aftermarket head lowers temps/raises flow/helps HP/TQ.

or am i reading it wrong?
My dealer has an excellent offer on a 103 Stage 1 package which includes the SE heads, same as the CVO I think.

In any event, I know this will not be the highest HP / Tq. 103 but will be good for me. The heads keep low compression, that helps somewhat iwith heat, and will help stay away from detonation.

My point was my dealer download for the 103 will probably give me HP / Tq. numbers in the mid 80's and run o/k with enough heat to keep emissions at strict EPA standards, then a SERT dyno tune should get around 100 HP / Tq. while cutting down the temps somewhat while still staying within or close to EPA levels.

Meaning, SERT dyno tune and Mobil 1 V-Twin would get the most from a fairly mild cool running 103.
 

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04ctd said:
if i am reading right, all the posts are saying that HD/SE heads which are EPA compliant run higher temps and are more restrictive to create those temps, to burn clean & have low emissions

(the SE bikes run the 103's and are EPA certified, correct?)

so getting an aftermarket head lowers temps/raises flow/helps HP/TQ.

or am i reading it wrong?
You are reading it right. In fact, a lot of head porters can take your OEM heads, and for a lot less money port them and flow them much better than SE Heads.
 

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I suggest using a JAGG frame mount oil cooler, and the S&S oil filter adapter. Being frame mounted, it is in the airstream, and debris from the front tire won't damage it. Buy the optional leather cover and install it on the cooler when it is cold, until the engine heats up. It can be quickly removed at a stop light in about 5 seconds. 240 degrees is warm, but if you look in your manual, EFI models have heat management that at 266 degrees the idle speed gradually reduces, at 293 it goes down some more, at 322 the ECm richens the mixture, and at 331 the injector pulses are interrupted. BY ALL MEANS, DO NOT RICHEN THE MIXTURE TO COOL YOUR ENGINE DOWN! You will only wash the oil off the cylinder walls, foul plugs, etc. The oil cooler set-up is about $300 or so, and is a very easy do-it-yourself project. Or pay your local indy to do it. As for the synthetic oil, some swear by it, some hate it. Use what you like and have had good luck with.
 

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pa-glazier said:
Had my heads done by Baisley Hi-Performance http://www.baisley.com/ when I did my 95" build. The engine runs much cooler even with the larger displacement!
I'm no expert here, but I'd venture a guess that just having the heads cleaned up and ported a bit makes all the difference in cooler temps. But when the heads are off, most folks do the juggs and pistons too.
 
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