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Discussion Starter #1
Completed my do it yourself fluid change today and it was sort of a peice of cake! The 1000 mile service was completed be the dealer, so this was the second time the Wideglide had its fluids changed. Crankcase and Trany went just the service manual said.
When I started the Primary the first thing I noticed was that the plug was hand loose so I removed it without the rachet just using the torx socket. I removed the plug and inspected it and found that it had two "o" rings on it and there was a trace of metal shaving in the threads, the magnet on the bottom had little to no crap on it. Anyway I drained the oil and replaced the "o" ring (1) and used my fingers to hand tighten. Well it never got tight! It would get finger snug but not tight. For lack of ideas and panic, I used another old o ring for a total of two o rings and tried to tighen again. This time, only using my fingers, I was able to get it tight enough that I could finger tighten any more. I wasn't about to put a rachet on it!! I then completed the fluid change without incident.
I then test rode it and watch for leaks and had none. What would you recommend I do? So I continue to ride? Is there something I can do to repair the threads or what? I doubt the dealer is going to step up and admit that they may have caused the problem.
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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I would just leave it and monitor. Or if you want to take it off again, try to see if it is the plug that is stripped. Replace the plug if it is. If it isn't, then you have two options. Replace the cover (ebay is a cheap way to go), or a little blue locktight along with the double o-rings. Good luck, and get you a manual so you can do your own servicing.

(I have had to literally redo EVERYTHING the dealer has everdone on my RK. Never again will they touch it. Warrenty or not. I even still have the original leaking valve seals. I'm just waiting to get new heads. Sorry for the rant!)
 
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I can guess what happened.

When you took it in for the first service, the 19 year-old that was washing bikes the prior week torqued the drain plug in the primary to spec. Unfortunately, this results in spreading out the hole in the cover. Luckily (for him) it didn't crack the case, so he added the second "O" ring to get it tight enough to hold, and sent you on your way.

Once you get the new cover you'll need, just install the drain plug to about 1/4 turn past finger tight.

The problem is the drain plug is a tapered part, so it tends to do that.

Harris
 

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bbrowncods said:
I would just leave it and monitor. Or if you want to take it off again, try to see if it is the plug that is stripped. Replace the plug if it is. If it isn't, then you have two options. Replace the cover (ebay is a cheap way to go), or a little blue locktight along with the double o-rings. Good luck, and get you a manual so you can do your own servicing.

(I have had to literally redo EVERYTHING the dealer has everdone on my RK. Never again will they touch it. Warrenty or not. I even still have the original leaking valve seals. I'm just waiting to get new heads. Sorry for the rant!)
He has a manual: "Crankcase and Trany went just the service manual said."
 

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Harris said:
Once you get the new cover you'll need, just install the drain plug to about 1/4 turn past finger tight.
i wouldn't get panicked about a new cover. my plug could thread right thru and drop in the case if i kept turning with a socket by hand. carefully put some teflon sealant or blue loctite on it .even the teflon tape shouldn't be an issue. then tighten like harris said.
 

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If you read the owners manual, it shows how to properly install the primary drain plug. I used a little blue lock-tite and installed according to the manual. No problems.:coffee:
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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marthared said:
He has a manual: "Crankcase and Trany went just the service manual said."
I stand corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help

The one thing that puzzles me is that the service manual calls for the plug to be tighten to 36-60 in-lbs. instead of ft-lbs! What kind of crap is that? No wonder some clown at the dealer probably over torqed it!

I guess that 36-60 in-lbs would be something like 3-12 ft. lbs????? I'm I right?

If it wasn't loose to start with, I probably would have made the same mistake by torqing it to foot pounds instead of inch pounds
 

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So what you are telling us is that the dealer stripped out the drain plug on the first service, and then cobbled it with two o rings? If that indeed is the case ,, they owe you a new primary cover. If you had done it yourself ,,, you rig it and ride ,,, if the dealer screwed the pooch on the first service ,,,,, they get to make it right in my opinion...... My drain plug has seen better days as well ,, but then its on its 26th oil change.... I hit it with a few laps of teflon tape and run it in flush and its good to go ,,,,,, but a dealer boogering one up on the first try ,,, dude put the thumb screws on the dealer ....they have a record of who did the deed ......and you can bet they know if the guy was the kind of guy who could screw it up . rat
 

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ratt said:
So what you are telling us is that the dealer stripped out the drain plug on the first service, and then cobbled it with two o rings? If that indeed is the case ,, they owe you a new primary cover.
That would be true until they say "well, how do we know that you didn't do it yourself? You were the last person to touch it, not us."
 

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oaksmith said:
Completed my do it yourself fluid change today and it was sort of a peice of cake! The 1000 mile service was completed be the dealer, so this was the second time the Wideglide had its fluids changed. Crankcase and Trany went just the service manual said.
When I started the Primary the first thing I noticed was that the plug was hand loose so I removed it without the rachet just using the torx socket. I removed the plug and inspected it and found that it had two "o" rings on it and there was a trace of metal shaving in the threads, the magnet on the bottom had little to no crap on it. Anyway I drained the oil and replaced the "o" ring (1) and used my fingers to hand tighten. Well it never got tight! It would get finger snug but not tight. For lack of ideas and panic, I used another old o ring for a total of two o rings and tried to tighen again. This time, only using my fingers, I was able to get it tight enough that I could finger tighten any more. I wasn't about to put a rachet on it!! I then completed the fluid change without incident.
I then test rode it and watch for leaks and had none. What would you recommend I do? So I continue to ride? Is there something I can do to repair the threads or what? I doubt the dealer is going to step up and admit that they may have caused the problem.

Get this - the Stealer where I bought my FXDL now has a NOTICE on the service counter stating that they are NOT responsible if the drain plug strips out - even if THEY do it!! Haven't let them touch it since. They'll only get it for warrantee repairs.

They (the service department) do SUCK, so this wasn't totally surprising, but it sure was infuriating!
 

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oaksmith said:
The one thing that puzzles me is that the service manual calls for the plug to be tighten to 36-60 in-lbs. instead of ft-lbs! What kind of crap is that? No wonder some clown at the dealer probably over torqed it!

I guess that 36-60 in-lbs would be something like 3-12 ft. lbs????? I'm I right?

If it wasn't loose to start with, I probably would have made the same mistake by torqing it to foot pounds instead of inch pounds
Please someone correct me if I'm wrong and I don't know about the dyna line as I have a softail.

In 04 they changed the drain plug to NPT= pipe thread and there is no longer a torque spec. You tighten to a given measurement of plug showing below the primary. If you use the torque # from previous years, the plug will run in pretty deep.

I looked it up and I was incorrect. It does say 30-60 in. lbs. I know I read somewhere about the measurement thing.

The first service I did I used a buddy's manual and he has a 2002 ST Standard, maybe it was in that manual.
 

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Torx or Allen?

oaksmith said:
When I started the Primary the first thing I noticed was that the plug was hand loose so I removed it without the rachet just using the torx socket.
Take another look at the drain plug. My '06 Ultra drain plug is 3/16 allen rather than torx. The 27 torx will round out the inside of the plug.

BTW, the '06 service manuel says to use a 27 torx on the clutch inspection cover but does not mention that it takes a 3/16 allen for the drain plug.

Guess the tech writers did not know about this either.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The plug is a Torx........It is NOT a T-27 however

The Primary Cover is T-27 but not the plug
 

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oaksmith said:
The one thing that puzzles me is that the service manual calls for the plug to be tighten to 36-60 in-lbs. instead of ft-lbs! What kind of crap is that? No wonder some clown at the dealer probably over torqed it!

I guess that 36-60 in-lbs would be something like 3-12 ft. lbs????? I'm I right?
try this site

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

you are correct sir, 36 pound inch = 3 pound foot
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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WideOne said:
you are correct sir, 36 pound inch = 3 pound foot
Try using Newton Meters. I find it is easier.
 

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Primary Drain Plug - Torx size for 1996 FLHR Road King

For a 1996 FLHR Road King, what is the Torx size for the Primary Plug? Is the 3/16" a suitable replacement?

Also....where is the Transmission Drain Plug....having a hard time locating it?
 

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roadking24 said:
For a 1996 FLHR Road King, what is the Torx size for the Primary Plug? Is the 3/16" a suitable replacement?

Also....where is the Transmission Drain Plug....having a hard time locating it?
I don't know if 96 and 03 are the same (probably not, different motors & such) but my trannys drain plug is right beside the oil drain. Seems like it might be a little further back, but right close to one another.
 
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