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Discussion Starter #1
having a 2003 dyna I am a little concereed about crack bearings. So how difficoult will be retorque the compensator nut with the right, new, procedure. I have a torque wrench wich goes up to 120 nm but must I use an air-tool to loosen it? Or there is another way to stop the axle?. And I suppose I must also change the nut? thanks for any helpes
Ps following the advices from this forum I jet changed tee oil on my cartridge (dyna FXDX) forks and swapped the plastic breathers with the right one: just one night work, after job. great
 

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I have a 2003 Dyna Lowrider that recently had the compensator nut come loose. It intermittantly made one hell of a grinding noise and vibration I could feel though the handlebars -- thought I was losing a cam bearing. I managed to limp home (the noise wasn't constant) and pulled the primary cover. Everything looked OK til I checked tyhe compensator nut -- it was so loose I could easily turn it by hand. It turned out that when the nut loosened up the vibration wiped out my stator and I had to replace it -- didn't find this out til I'd tightened the nut up with the new procedure and found out the battery wasn't charging.

Concerning loosening the Compensator nut to retighten it per the new specs -- that's a bitch without a 1/2" air impact wrench. You'll still need to lock the promary chain from turning -- what I do (after I remove the chain tensioner) is to jam a block of wood between the chain and compensator sprocket -- I cut a taper on the end of the wood so it jams in tight (a 2x2 about 6" long should work fine). If you don't have an air impact wrench then you'll need a Long breaker bar. You'll also need the breaker bar and wood block when you retighten it -- don't use the air impact for tightening. The only thing you'll need the torque wrench for is to pretension the bolt to 75 ft-ibs before the final 45 degrees of tightening. Also, don't forget the red locktite and primer/cleaner per the instruction sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
very good tutorial Hdrider, thanks a lot. Did you shifted the tapered end of the wood block in the chain or in the clutch sproket? As for the air tool I think I can afford one, I jet have the compressor, only need the gun, but should not be so expensive. Ps sought on harleyhog site a self made tool to stop the sprockets, seems easy to realize. having bike on first gear and firmly breacking on rear weels should help?? As general speaking I had the compesator tored twice jet, first when my stator went (bike was only one years old) the second when the stealer installed the hb-125. Both times where before the bullettin maintenance update and I remember clearly that the mech used the air gun to retight. Thats why I whont to go in.
thankyou again
 

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The tapered part of the wood block goes against the sprocket -- once the teeth start to dig into it it holds securely. I used as sharp a taper as I could set a table saw to -- probably 30 to 45 degrees. If it's not a sharp angle the block will "scoot out" before the teeth dig in -- you may need to hold it til it "catches".

As far as the impact wrnch -- a 3/8" doesn't have enough power to loosen the nut -- I had to use a 1/2" impact wrench for that, so make sure you buy the larger size. I'm suprised the tech used the impact wrench to tighten the nut -- the service manual specifically warns against that due to it causing possible damage.

I installed the HB125 also -- it was real easy. I guess after your experience with the stealer you'll start doing your own work -- I do all my own now.

I assume you've bought the Harley Shop Manual and Parts Manual for your bike -- it's a VERY good investment and you'll need it for the torques values and tightening sequences. I also bought the electrical manual -- came in handy when I diagnosed the Stator problem.
 

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hdrider1 said:
The tapered part of the wood block goes against the sprocket -- once the teeth start to dig into it it holds securely. I used as sharp a taper as I could set a table saw to -- probably 30 to 45 degrees. If it's not a sharp angle the block will "scoot out" before the teeth dig in -- you may need to hold it til it "catches".

As far as the impact wrnch -- a 3/8" doesn't have enough power to loosen the nut -- I had to use a 1/2" impact wrench for that, so make sure you buy the larger size. I'm suprised the tech used the impact wrench to tighten the nut -- the service manual specifically warns against that due to it causing possible damage.

I installed the HB125 also -- it was real easy. I guess after your experience with the stealer you'll start doing your own work -- I do all my own now.
I assume you've bought the Harley Shop Manual and Parts Manual for your bike -- it's a VERY good investment and you'll need it for the torques values and tightening sequences. I also bought the electrical manual -- came in handy when I diagnosed the Stator problem.
you can rattle the magnets loose on the rotor by loosening the nut with an impact also....use a breaker bar to loosen the nut if it's tight..not an impact. if you cant get it loose with a breaker bar....find somebody who is bigger .stonger to do it.
when ever the comp. nut is found to be loose..check the splines on the rotor to make sure they are'nt worn "v" shaped from rocking on the pinion shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ciao Hdrider1. I have the service manual in english, not the parts manuals (good for bigger exploded parts drowings, I know) because here is not so easy to get it, indeed I think stealers does not sells it. I use to do as much whork I can by myself (fluids, brakes, greasing, and valves clearence, timing and carbing on my metric BMW too) but there are some cons too. First I am absolutely selfmade on this, and while I can go in a friend's BMW shop and ask explanation before (sometime also after having performed the great mess) , there are no more than tree or four good harley mech here in rome, and all very jealous of their's knowledge. Then inches utils are rare and expensive and no body wil rent them. Last but not least my english is not good enaught to understand every tech info in the manual. But the great cons is that stealer, and HD Italy, firmly requires that al maintenance schedules are done by them, or warranty is avoided. So I had to go there for the HB125, else if I was not happy. And tried, without success, to explain them that there where no need to tore apart the whole chain groupe to install it. Thats how it goes here. Sorry for going so log post but, just to explain, when my fuel gauge self-disassemled last week I whent to the dealer to ask for the mini-seeger ring thats hold the floater ball to the electrical unit. No whay to have, they simpy stated that I had t to change the whole sending unit for about 160 euros (170/180 usd or so, without the gauge): so they do in this evenience. I ended up with a a no-cost solution, a retaineer took from an old Dell'Orto's carb needle I found in garage. Seems to hold perfecly untill now.
 

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Same as Engine Sprocket

I think the dealership is referring to this as the engine sproket in my case. Mine came loose and damaged the rotor and my chrome inner primary cover. It's at the dealership now awaiting word from H-D as to how to cover it under warranty. I took it into them after I figured out the stator had gone bad. It took them an extra day to get the clutch off because they had no idea what my VPC was. I had to fax them the instruction sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for Your's advice, my friends. I just retorqued the comp nut. Well my primary had been tooked down from stealer twice, first when stator whent hell, second a few time afetr when I asked to install the hb135. The nut was still not too tight. It was not propperly loose but I had not to do much effort to unscerw kit. So I had it sliced the 0,30 (as from advice, because I did not liked too much to add any more stuff ther, waher or whatever). then retoqued the bastard as per bullettin. Quest: should it last now??? I hope I dont have to tear down another time, with that torque...
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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If you used the new procedure and locktight, I don't think you will have any problems.
 

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Shift_Happens
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So, with the new post, do you torque to 75 foot lbs and then turn addtional 45 degrees?
I have a 2005 FLHT and was wondering if that applies to mine also. I changed the inner primary and torqued to 150 foot lbs, is that not correct? I put the trans in 5th gear and had someone hold the rear brake, you'll be able to tighten the nut.
Thanks, Harless
 

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So, with the new post, do you torque to 75 foot lbs and then turn addtional 45 degrees?
I have a 2005 FLHT and was wondering if that applies to mine also. I changed the inner primary and torqued to 150 foot lbs, is that not correct? I put the trans in 5th gear and had someone hold the rear brake, you'll be able to tighten the nut.
Thanks, Harless
yes 75 ft/lbs and an additional 45-50 degrees. I comes out a lot more than 150 ft/lbs or at least it did on mine. You should also shim your comp nut .090" to prevent stack up.
 

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yes 75 ft/lbs and an additional 45-50 degrees. I comes out a lot more than 150 ft/lbs or at least it did on mine. You should also shim your comp nut .090" to prevent stack up.
Yeah when I did mine it was a little over 160 ft lbs when all is done. I ground the nut down instead of shimming.
 

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Shift_Happens
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Thanks guys, how much do you grind off the nut or if I went with the shim, where do I get it?
Thanks, Harless
 

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So, with the new post, do you torque to 75 foot lbs and then turn addtional 45 degrees?
I have a 2005 FLHT and was wondering if that applies to mine also. I changed the inner primary and torqued to 150 foot lbs, is that not correct? I put the trans in 5th gear and had someone hold the rear brake, you'll be able to tighten the nut.
Thanks, Harless
I,m in the process of replacing my seal and trying to tighten my compensator and clutch nuts. How do you put the trans in 5th gear when the shifter is disassembled and the bike trans is in nuetral? The manual states a mean of 160 ft#
 

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I'm in the process of replacing my seal and trying to tighten my compensator and clutch nuts. How do you put the trans in 5th gear when the shifter is disassembled and the bike trans is in nuetral? The manual states a mean of 160 ft#
 

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I'm in the process of replacing my seal and trying to tighten my compensator and clutch nuts. How do you put the trans in 5th gear when the shifter is disassembled and the bike trans is in nuetral? The manual states a mean of 160 ft#
just slip the shift lever back on and with the rear tire in the air bump the tire back while up shifting. another easier way is if you have a fl or dyna ie not a softtail is getting a piece of 1/4inch flat bar 1 inch wide and 7.5 inches long and slide it between the front sprocket and the sprocket on the clutch. YOu put it at an angle when you are doing it you will figure out which way it goes in for tightening and loosening.
 

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Get out of the habit of using impact on comp sprocket nut.The tool you use to jam the chain (there is plastic tool made cheap money) can be used for tightening and loosening the nut.
 

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2005 flht comp nut torque

i have my primary opened up, made a wood block wedge & was abbl to keep the sprocket from turning but while trying to torque the nut there is alot of springyness in the tightening direction, sprocket is not moving. Is this a sign of the nut being bottomed out & not properly torqued? Do i take it remove the nut & shave it since i am this far?? Anything else to look for. Had knock in primary at 2200-2800 rpm, that's why i'm looking at the compensator.
 
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