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I'm pulling the primary apsrt can anyone supply a picture or instructions on where to take .30 off the Comp. nut to get it to stay tight mine has come loose twice now and I want to fix it for good
 

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mainmusic said:
I'm pulling the primary apsrt can anyone supply a picture or instructions on where to take .30 off the Comp. nut to get it to stay tight mine has come loose twice now and I want to fix it for good
Have you been monitoring the nut to now it came loose? (Just curious.)

How have you been tightening it? Have you sude loctite?
 

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mainmusic said:
I'm pulling the primary apsrt can anyone supply a picture or instructions on where to take .30 off the Comp. nut to get it to stay tight mine has come loose twice now and I want to fix it for good
If you want to stop it coming loose you can drill a1/16 hole through the nut and cover and tap in a steel split dowel...........it will never come looseagain no matter what.......................industry practice where I come from.


All the best, Ozzie....................merry xmas mainmusic...........follow this thread for a number of alternatives.


http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66941&highlight=Staking
 

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Ozzie makes a good point...In aviation maintenance all systems/op's critical fasteners are safety wired. (Drill a hole in the comp nut and the comp. cover.) Probably the method I'll use when I go to 3.37 gearing..

Happy Holidays to All!

DLR
 

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That EMC comp lock nut deal that MegaGlide has looks like the ticket to me for that problem. I don't know if I'd trust a roll pin. JMO.
 

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timbo said:
That EMC comp lock nut deal that MegaGlide has looks like the ticket to me for that problem. I don't know if I'd trust a roll pin. JMO.
Yes, until you have tried this or have seen it somewhere it is hard to grasp.............but try to understand that a nut, any nut that is loosening on a shaft is encountering mechanical or harmonic vibration which are quite powerful yet invisible forces acting on the interaction of the threads on the nut and bolt.

There is no lbs/force load on the nut required when staking and the stake itself is just a physical constraint to the rotation of the nut and unless the pin falls out the nut can not possibly unwind itself...............Loctite is quite acceptable too but heat does soften it................no doubt not enough to loosen the comp nut in this case.

So if you were to tighten a nut with a few foot/lbs of force

Merry Xmas Timbo..........................hey how does the bike feel with that cam and 3.37 setup??? I bet it goes like a bat outa hell!!

All the best, Ozzie
 

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EMC setup?

Can someone do me a small favor and tell me more about the EMC setup for the comp nut?

:whisper:
 

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THe EMC locknut is a much better idea. If you ever need to dissasemble the compensator sprocket, there is no garentee that when you re-tighten it, the small drilled "dowl plug" will line up properly upon retorque of the assembly. That EMC locknut plate allows for just that by having multiple install positions of the lockplate to line up properly with the compensator nut. Same idea as used on the transmission sprocket which also uses a lockplate.
 

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ez1550fxst said:
THe EMC locknut is a much better idea. If you ever need to dissasemble the compensator sprocket, there is no garentee that when you re-tighten it, the small drilled "dowl plug" will line up properly upon retorque of the assembly. That EMC locknut plate allows for just that by having multiple install positions of the lockplate to line up properly with the compensator nut. Same idea as used on the transmission sprocket which also uses a lockplate.
Again until you have done the staking bit you will not realise how simple it is to do and lining up the 2 holes requires a reference mark punched into the cover and a reference mark on the socket......it is the same for any other application to line up...........you can use a tiny punch to put 2 alignment marks on the socket and cover.

This was always done when you wanted to bring the tigtening application back to the original values...................you just need to have 2 reference points.

All the best.................Ozzie
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Again until you have done the staking bit you will not realise how simple it is to do and lining up the 2 holes requires a reference mark punched into the cover and a reference mark on the socket......it is the same for any other application to line up...........you can use a tiny punch to put 2 alignment marks on the socket and cover.

This was always done when you wanted to bring the tigtening application back to the original values...................you just need to have 2 reference points.

All the best.................Ozzie
Yeah, but what good are 2 "reference" marks if after proper torque down upon reassembly they dont line up anymore? Things stretch and minute changes take place as things are assembled and dissasembled. Just seems like too much of a hassle, especially when there already is a ready made solution. Plus I would love to know how you take the dowel out when the time comes to dissasemble the unit for a gear,chain swap or other maintenance. Look closely at the assembly, its really not feasable that I can see. The lockplate idea on the other hand is a simple fool proof solution: http://www.emcv2.com/accserv/acc-comploc/comploc.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Emc

Who makes the EMC Compensator Nut Lock how much and where do you get them. Search takes me to Rivera if they handle them I can get them at a discount. I have also read that you can remove some materal from the comp. nut but I don't know where it needs to be removed
 

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mainmusic said:
I'm pulling the primary apsrt can anyone supply a picture or instructions on where to take .30 off the Comp. nut to get it to stay tight mine has come loose twice now and I want to fix it for good
The shim as per TT is seen in this pic.

 

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ez1550fxst said:
Yeah, but what good are 2 "reference" marks if after proper torque down upon reassembly they dont line up anymore? Things stretch and minute changes take place as things are assembled and dissasembled. Just seems like too much of a hassle, especially when there already is a ready made solution. Plus I would love to know how you take the dowel out when the time comes to dissasemble the unit for a gear,chain swap or other maintenance. Look closely at the assembly, its really not feasable that I can see. The lockplate idea on the other hand is a simple fool proof solution: http://www.emcv2.com/accserv/acc-comploc/comploc.htm


Well I am not trying to sell you the dowel pin here so if you dont feel comfortable with this then please buddy.......dont do it, but dont try to put down an idea that has been used in my industry with 100% success as it been around longer than me.

The fact is that this idea is a simple effective way to stop the comp nut from coming loose and it works.

Takes as long as it takes to drill a 1/16 hole and tap the dowel pin in place

Does not cost any more than the 1/16 dowel and the drill
Does not need the cover drilled and tapped
Does not have any balance issue.

Now if you had have read my other posts you would have noted that the nut is simply undone which shears the dowel pin...........you then make up a simple drive punch from a suitably sized nail and punch the 2 halves out.
At approx. 20 ft/lbs and above of torque applied to any bolt/nut and the nut has been staked it will never come loose.

As far as your statement that things move around etc.........come on mate, you cant be serious about that arguement.........the difference in clamping pressure would most likely fall within the calibration range of any torque wrench and the same logic applies to the comp nut clamp plate that you refer to.

So endeth the lesson.

All the best, Ozzie
 

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Ozzie, are you talking about a simple roll pin like whats in the cam plate?
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Well I am not trying to sell you the dowel pin here so if you dont feel comfortable with this then please buddy.......dont do it, but dont try to put down an idea that has been used in my industry with 100% success as it been around longer than me.

The fact is that this idea is a simple effective way to stop the comp nut from coming loose and it works.

Takes as long as it takes to drill a 1/16 hole and tap the dowel pin in place

Does not cost any more than the 1/16 dowel and the drill
Does not need the cover drilled and tapped
Does not have any balance issue.

Now if you had have read my other posts you would have noted that the nut is simply undone which shears the dowel pin...........you then make up a simple drive punch from a suitably sized nail and punch the 2 halves out.
At approx. 20 ft/lbs and above of torque applied to any bolt/nut and the nut has been staked it will never come loose.

As far as your statement that things move around etc.........come on mate, you cant be serious about that arguement.........the difference in clamping pressure would most likely fall within the calibration range of any torque wrench and the same logic applies to the comp nut clamp plate that you refer to.

So endeth the lesson.

All the best, Ozzie
I get the lesson and to give an example of how well it works, the auto industry has been applying this with front spindels and castle nut's for front wheel bearings forever. Not a drive/roll pin, but the same principle using a cotter key and that nut is only finger tight.

They also use them for things like distributor drive gears where the only thing holding the gear on the shaft is the pin.

Pretty cheap way to get it done.

Thanks Ozzie,
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Merry Xmas Timbo..........................hey how does the bike feel with that cam and 3.37 setup??? I bet it goes like a bat outa hell!!

All the best, Ozzie
Yeah that 3.37 has me really holding on when I bury the wick from first to second! I also find myself leaning forward too so I don't go sliding off the back of that Badlander seat I got on there.

The way I torqued my comp nut was the original method. Red Loctite and torqued it 165 ft lbs. Ater that I took my 1/2" breaker bar and 3ft pipe extension and pulled down on it ti'll I felt my nads start to climb up my groin! He he! If it comes loose I'll be surprised.

Cheers Oz. Happy New Year!
 

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Timbo cant wait to get this done. I think you are the one who convinced me on this so am thrilled to hear you have to hang on now. You, and then my other friend who started the new GP support article, and I am "in for a penny, in for a pound". Please if my seals go out, DO NOT bust my chops too hard#[email protected]

Just waiting on parts.................
 

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harleyhog said:
The shim as per TT is seen in this pic.


Hello there Harleyhog.....................a belated Merry Xmas to you buddy!!!!!

I hope you have a great and prosperous new year....and you have a few cold ones on me.....................and thanks for all your articles and efforts in support of your fellow bikers!!



All the best, Ozzie
 
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