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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to pull the comp sprocket and clutch hub so I can install 3.37 gearing. Does anyone know what sizes these nuts are? I'm asking because I have to borrow the sockets.
Thanks,
DLR
 

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As I am in the same boat, I was told I need a 1 1/2" and a 1 3/16".
 

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DLRVelocity1 said:
I'm about to pull the comp sprocket and clutch hub so I can install 3.37 gearing. Does anyone know what sizes these nuts are? I'm asking because I have to borrow the sockets.
Thanks,
DLR
Where do you get 3.37 gearing?

Is it the trans sprocket:hmmm:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Primary...24 tooth comp sprocket and a 37 tooth clutch hub sprocket = 3.37 gearing, although I'm told you can drop teeth on the trans sprocket and achieve the same ultimate gearing. Overall, less expensive, but more time involved to do so, and then you have to change to a smaller belt size, (less number of teeth), if you've got the 70 tooth rear sprocket.
DLR
 

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DLRVelocity1 said:
Primary...24 tooth comp sprocket and a 37 tooth clutch hub sprocket = 3.37 gearing, although I'm told you can drop teeth on the trans sprocket and achieve the same ultimate gearing. Overall, less expensive, but more time involved to do so, and then you have to change to a smaller belt size, (less number of teeth), if you've got the 70 tooth rear sprocket.
DLR

Next question,Where did you order them from?
 

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Chicago Harley Davidson 306.00 for the clutch housing and front sprocket. You should use a new primary gasket to.
 

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johnny_red said:
$270.00 for both from Zanotti's
http://www.zanottimotor.com/
clutch basket 37t- 37846-99a
countershaft sprocket 24t- 40269-85a
Good price, I saw it quoted more then that from them in another thread.

"Is this quicker and easier than the rear sprocket change? I see that its not cheaper. Zanotti's 40269-85A - $34.00 and 37846-99A - $271.00."

They are cheaper then CHD weird I just priced it and this is what came up plus I would have to pay 6% sales tax. So cheaper for me from CHD

37846-99A ( Quantity 1 * Price231.76) $ 231.76
40269-85A ( Quantity 1 * Price38.33) $ 38.33
Shipping is $ 18.10
Total $ 288.19
Finish Checkout
 

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Keep in mind that changing the trans or rear wheel pulley will throw off your speedo. Then you'll have to buy a speedo calibration unit as well. If you do the primary gearing method you won't have to worry about the speedo being off the mark.
 

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Whole primary must come off

The whole primary must come off to swap the trans sprocket. It is a bunch more work, plus you have to get the speedo calabration unit mentioned before. I did the 3.37 primary gear swap and am way happy with it.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2 Fopllow-up Questions...

Do I in fact need the 1 3/16 and 1 1/2" sockets in order to remove the clutch hub and comp sprocket? (All the HD FSM says is clutch hub bolt is "metric" and left hand thread??)

Also, do you typically find the "shim" behind the comp sprocket that the FSM discusses, (that trues the chain alignment between the comp and clutch sprockets?)

Appreciate any feedback from anybody who has done this job. I'm ready to remove the comp and clutch hub nuts, right after I borrow or buy the right sockets. Have breaker bar, torque wrench and locktite. Just need a little advice.

Thanks,
DLR
 

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Yes..those are the sockets you will need. remember the clutch is reverse thread. I have found the shim present on all my bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are the new HD replacement compensator sprockets and clutch hub machined tolerances close enough that you can re-install the stock shim that comes out with the stock original comp sprocket?

In other words, If you use the stock original factory shim with the new comp sprocket, will the primary chain alignment be maintained within the HD FSM specified .030 max mis-alignment?

Curious, because when all the 3.37 gear changes are discussed here on the forum by the guys that have done this, this never gets mentioned, but the shop manual discusses the measuring of this dimension and the possibility of the need for a shim change.

I'm thinking that most of them go back together with the original shim??

Thanks,
DLR
 

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Great question! I can only say when I did my comp nut at 4200 I just cleaned it all well, red lock tight and cranked it to like 150 or 160 ft/lbs. Been on since. Curious when I crack it for the gearing and GP Support just how tight it is, it will certainly satisfy my curiosity as to if it was just a low torque on the assembly line, no locktite or contaminant on parts. If this is tight, I will be happy, and my worries on it will be over.
 

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LAF said:
Great question! I can only say when I did my comp nut at 4200 I just cleaned it all well, red lock tight and cranked it to like 150 or 160 ft/lbs. Been on since. Curious when I crack it for the gearing and GP Support just how tight it is, it will certainly satisfy my curiosity as to if it was just a low torque on the assembly line, no locktite or contaminant on parts. If this is tight, I will be happy, and my worries on it will be over.

Merry xmas LAF.....................HIPPO advised a few weeks back of a bulletin stating that it was a stack height issue on 02/03/04 bikes................it goes on to state that the comp nut was xxx thou too long and this was stopping it from ever tightening to its correct torque setting.

The fix was to trim the nut down xx thou in a lathe or put a shim under the nut head, then you could tighten the nut and achieve the correct bolt tension.

All the best....................Ozzie
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Merry xmas LAF.....................HIPPO advised a few weeks back of a bulletin stating that it was a stack height issue on 02/03/04 bikes................it goes on to state that the comp nut was xxx thou too long and this was stopping it from ever tightening to its correct torque setting.

The fix was to trim the nut down xx thou in a lathe or put a shim under the nut head, then you could tighten the nut and achieve the correct bolt tension.

All the best....................Ozzie
Thanks Ozzie.
If it was only 02/03/04 bikes, but my 05 had the problem also. I know you can machine .30 of the comp nut, or get the shim kit they came out with.

The mix in this is going to be GP instructions on the torque with their support plate.

Looks like next week I will know as the 3.37 gearing and the GP will be here.

It wont be long after that and I will have them in.
 

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question or two fellas!

Since I'm going back into the primary again to install my GP crank support I guess I should ask a question or two just to cover my bases and feel all warm and fuzzy.

1. Is there a part number on that shim kit for the comp nut? Or can anyone tell me where to get a .30 shim to put on the comp nut for my '03? I've not had a problem yet but I'd sure like to nick it in the bud while I'm in there. Is the shim fix the newest factory approved fix and does it supersede service bulletin M-1170? This was the first time I had heard about it.

2. Is there a chemical on the market that will soften up red locktite? I had a big glob last time that I had to dig out with a scribe and that sucked. I was thinking maybe Chemtool carb dip would clean all the crap out of the threads? Any suggestions? Red Loctite laughs at brake cleaner and carb spray....

Merry Xmas Amigos!
 

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rpbrock said:
Since I'm going back into the primary again to install my GP crank support I guess I should ask a question or two just to cover my bases and feel all warm and fuzzy.

1. Is there a part number on that shim kit for the comp nut? Or can anyone tell me where to get a .30 shim to put on the comp nut for my '03? I've not had a problem yet but I'd sure like to nick it in the bud while I'm in there. Is the shim fix the newest factory approved fix and does it supersede service bulletin M-1170? This was the first time I had heard about it.

Zippers for the shim, sorry I dont know the number.

2. Is there a chemical on the market that will soften up red locktite? I had a big glob last time that I had to dig out with a scribe and that sucked. I was thinking maybe Chemtool carb dip would clean all the crap out of the threads? Any suggestions? Red Loctite laughs at brake cleaner and carb spray....

Usual have to chase the threads down with a tap and dye kit........then wire brush them............sometimes (dependant on location) one of those nifty gas can burners is used to heat up the nut/bolt to soften the loctite to remove nut/bolt........

Merry Xmas Amigos!

Merry Xmas rpbrock..............so the GP Support does not address the comp nut coming loose like I believed it would??

All the best, Ozzie
 

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Ozzie In Arabia said:
Merry Xmas rpbrock..............so the GP Support does not address the comp nut coming loose like I believed it would??

All the best, Ozzie
No sir Oz Man... does not fix the issue, but He did mention that the extra support on the outboard side would help eliminate vibrations that would go through the crank and lessen the chance of a properly TQed nut from coming loose. I still think that if the nut is properly TQed and loctited and there aren't any clearance issues (such as needing a shim) that it shouldn't come off in the first place. When I removed mine last time at 8K, I had to use an impact to get it off. Then again, it's a HD... anything is possible. Thanks for the tips!

OZZIE, SNOWMAN, LAF and the others, Have a great Christmas!!!
 

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rpbrock said:
No sir Oz Man... does not fix the issue, but He did mention that the extra support on the outboard side would help eliminate vibrations that would go through the crank and lessen the chance of a properly TQed nut from coming loose. I still think that if the nut is properly TQed and loctited and there aren't any clearance issues (such as needing a shim) that it shouldn't come off in the first place. When I removed mine last time at 8K, I had to use an impact to get it off. Then again, it's a HD... anything is possible. Thanks for the tips!

OZZIE, SNOWMAN, LAF and the others, Have a great Christmas!!!
Merry Christmas to you also.

I sure would like to hear how it goes as you will be there a few days before me, I wont see it until the 30th.

On the comp nut thing. My whole question and is the 100.00 question is, why?

Like I said if mine is tight when I go to break it, then I will have no issue what ever with putting it on again the same way.

Was it too loose from the factory? Was there contaminates on the nut and threads that did not allow the locktite to set? Was there even locktite on it?

As to the GP unit I did not expect it to solve the comp nut issue. I am not sure it is a issue when correct cleaning, nice dose of red locktite, go to the torque spec, and then the 45 turn more they call for.

The mix is what the instructions in the GP unit call for on the comp nut turn. There is where we are going to have to make a choice if it is different then the bulletin issued on the comp nut.

The harmonics may be a factor for sure and I think Doc had alluded to that. It did bite me in the a$$ right after my build, is that when it attacked others? Was it the thumping of the cams and compression and the torque they generated that just spun it? If so I believe the GP unite will help in that way.

I really ask nothing more from it then to stabilize that shaft in another place, 3.37 gearing, 10.5 compression, and those monsters of torque, dominator's of rocker support plates, the TW-6HG.
 
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