V-Twin Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1998 FLHRC-I with a cold engine start problem, I have installed a Power Commander III-USB, A.N. big sucker air cleaner, Sampson true duals with straight pipes with baffles and had the bike dyno tuned. It will not start when the engine is cold with out a little throttle when it first fires. Once warmed up it will start with out any throttle. Has anyone had this problem and know a fix??:whatever: :thanks:
 

·
Livin the dream
Joined
·
338 Posts
Mines the same way. Have to stay on the throttle some to keep it running. Its always been like that so I havent tried to fix it. Its probably due to the old school efi.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
135 Posts
oh yeah.....i had the exact same problems and I know a very easy fix. it will not only fix your cold start problems but also your high fuel consumption, poor performance, funky idle, hard to tune, won't stay tuned, i can't deal with it anymore problems. its called a mikuni.

i didn't say it was cheap but it is easy. even with your FI fuel tank, ignition and all the wiring issues (which really aren't issues at all)

you won't regret it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What year is your bike? I assume that yours acts the same that being once it is started for the first time and the engine is warm the starting problem is not an issue? I forgot to mention that I also have installed a EV-13 Andrews cam in my bike.
 

·
Livin the dream
Joined
·
338 Posts
My bike is a 98 flhrci. When the engine was stock it wouldnt fire up without throttle and now it has head work ev27, pcIII. I just had it dyno tuned and it runs a hell of alot better but starts up cold the same as always. After its warm it fires right up no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for letting me know I am not the only one out here with this problem, what kind of # did your ride dyno? What did you have done to the heads and by who? I got 68hp and 80ft# with my set up, not hugh numbers but much better perfomance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
MM's are known for losing hot/cold idle settings.

There is a thread on this forum about switching over to carb, but it is kinda pricey.

You could try resetting the ecm by pulling your fuses for 30 minutes, or leaving the negative cable off your battery overnight, but if you had a dyno tune without setting the idles first, then a reset of the ecm will throw your tune off.

It could also be a bad temp sensor or sticking stepper motor (IAC).

I've got a 99 RKC, and am SERIOUSLY considering the switch to carb. %[email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have pulled the fuse as the manual calls out for when adjusting the idel for 5 minutes, maybe a longer disconnect time may help. I did check and replace the temp sensor even though it checked fine per the resistance chart in the manual. I also just replaced the TPS which fixed a stumble problem I was having in the 2200-2800 RPM range 9read about this fix in AIM. The only other thing I was thinking was the IAC maybe sticking, have you had this problem (IAC), or know anyone that has?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
494 Posts
No, I had a problem from being stupid and careless. Used a stranded wire on the TPS connector to check voltages for resetting the idle. One of the strands broke loose and laid down in the bottom of the TPS connection, shorting the 5v reference to the return. The ecm went beserk and bike would not run without holding throttle open. I had to unplug the IAC, push it completely closed, pull both fuses (5 & 15 amp), short the relay side of the ECM fuse plug to ground (the side without 12v on it) and leave it for over 30 minutes to reset ECM. Plugged IAC back in, put fuses in, and cycled the switch through about 5 times letting the light go out each cycle. Then I followed this procedure for setting TPS and idle:

1. Park the ISC fully extended, then unplug, with the motor cold.
2. Set the TPS at .19-.21 with both idle screws out.
3. Screw the hot idle into .52-.54 range.
4. Screw the cold idle into .64-.68 range.
5. Pull the two idle fuses for 10-15 minutes, to reset readings, and plug them back in.

Only thing I did different is to leave fuses out for 1 hour just to be sure. And from now on, I only use a single strand wire to check voltages at the connector.

I did have to drop the hot idle back down (it wound up at 1250, took it down to 1000). So far it's been working OK, so the ECM shouldn't be toasted. My problem is that with a PC or DFO I'm still not satisfied with the performance or gas mileage. Someone else here (MegaGlide?) opined that the MM efi has the accuracy of a bottle of spray Windex. At this point I tend to agree.

Sorry to be so long-winded, I must be venting. Hate it when I do something stupid and piss myself off! :spank:
 

·
Livin the dream
Joined
·
338 Posts
The good guys at big boyz did the head work. I had them shave it down .078 then they did there porting and polishing. EV27 cam, bassani road rage 2:1 pipe it made 80 hp 86 tq. I think I may try a different cam.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top