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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I am in the middle of my engine swap from my all ready built up 95" to a 120R so I figured I would put this thread here. As I was preping the primary side and draining the oil I noticed metal peices comming out, not to large but figuring that it was the ring gear...well to make a long story short, it landed up being the clutch hub spline teeth that slip on the transmission main shaft. The main shaft is fine. the edge closest to the tranny have about 8 or 9 teeth chiped. Also I noticed that the hub moves around a little while it sits on the shaft with out the hub nut installed.

What caused this?

I will get pictures as soon as I can
 

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Has the hub been removed before? If so, was it impacted on when it was reinstalled? Same thing happened to a buddies bike and the hub nut had been impacted previously.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Picture

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Has the hub been removed before? If so, was it impacted on when it was reinstalled? Same thing happened to a buddies bike and the hub nut had been impacted previously.
Yes, the hub has been off one time before and

NO! I use a breaker bar with a 1" 4 foot rigid metal electrical conduit sliped over the breaker bar handle for added leverage to take the nut off, and then I clean all the old lock tight off the threads then re-apply new lock tight on compleatly cleaned threads. I then install the nut while the lock tight is WET and use my 1/2 torque wrench to tighten the nut...and I also warm my Torque wrenches to room tempature and ALLWAYS bring them back to Zero right after every use....

Yes i am anal!
 

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Ok. Hard telling what happened.
 

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I over tightened the clutch hub nut once...stripped all the teeth out of it. But I've never seen them cracked like that. Looks like it was on its way to being striped and you caught it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thats exactly what my buddies looked like. Was it hard to get off? His was like jammed on.
nope, came right off, when I cleaned all the metal chips out of there I sliped the hub over the shaft, and it wobbles on the shaft slightly.

My concern now is i am going to a 120R motor. if the torque from my 95" modified did this to the hub I cant imagine what the 120R will do, also keep in mind, there is about 52,000 miles on this hub as well, add 100 ft/lbs of torque for the last 23K...

but I still am not compleatly sold that this was just out of normal wear
 

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It's from the compensating sprocket not absorbing shock. I see these splines completely sheared off whenever I get:
1) a bike with a very loose primary chain
2) a bike with a compensating nut that has backed off.

I use a whole lot of impact when I tighten up motor nuts, and clutch hub nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mine did the same thing. Never got any worse after the first 1/4-3/8". I've seen a few others.
wow, same exact thing, ok so this, even though its not a common mishap, happens to other people. that makes me feel a little beter.

I have caught my compensator loose about 15K miles ago but I have since tighened it and have done a few primary oil changes after that, never got metal until this last time.

Now, this fall I did ride alot more agressively knowing in the back of my mind that I was going to get a 120R ...ya and ive been known to do a few smoke shows here and there..but not really recently, but I have done more power shifting as of late causing the rear tire to let loose....

Maybe its just time for the clutch hub upgrade,,, should I also look into an upgraded comp?
 

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that clutch won't be any use with the 120 anyway. time to select an aftermarket. most offer a "drop in"upgrade. this will use your outer shell while replacing the inner hub. start the quest through the murky waters here of what works and what don't.

i use the aim cf-2 on the race bike. i've read here that it slips on the dyno, not a problem running 10.40 @128 in a heavy superglide. my next choice would be a barnett or baker kkk.
 

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I run Pro clutch along with Stroker and others. Others run the Sportsman. These are the top 120r clutch choices, IMHO. BOTH of these come with a new inner hub. If a do over was available... I would look into the Sportsman as folks seem to like it better.

As far as compensator for your 120... pretty much the stock comp.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How is the barnett scorpion clutch? I am looking into getting the complete kit. Any thoughts?
 

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Ya I would chalk it up to a loose primary and riding habits. It happens. Crank down on that hub nut and lock tight it, with the red stuff. Nice and tight. If you need to manually adjust the tensioner go as tight as u can, it's hard to over tighten the primay, tighter the better u don't want loose.
 

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Scorpion is OK. With any of these clutches, get the locking plate for your year of bike that Barnett sells. All of these kinds of clutches are different than stock and do NOT allow you at the nut to tighten basket if plates are installed. The locking plate allows you to tighten the basket nut with OUT any plates in the clutch. Neat tool. Locks the hub to the basket.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Scorpion is OK. With any of these clutches, get the locking plate for your year of bike that Barnett sells. All of these kinds of clutches are different than stock and do NOT allow you at the nut to tighten basket if plates are installed. The locking plate allows you to tighten the basket nut with OUT any plates in the clutch. Neat tool. Locks the hub to the basket.
I've got a wedge made out of pressure treated wood That I use to put in between the chain and sprocket. Can I just use that?
 

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no. You are locking different stuff with that. What I am talking about is locking the basket to the inner hub.... and then being able to use a torque wrench. I got fed up and used an impact last time... and THEN found these plates.

http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/clutch_tools.aspx?cat_id=7&prod_id=84 I googled this and looks to be $15-25.

Of course, I imagine an impact did a good job, too.
 
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