was the fluid viscosity rated the same as stock? sounds too thick.
ctd said:If I'm reading the procedure right, I take all the slack out of the cable BEFORE I adjust the clutch adjusting screw? Then at the clutch hand lever I adjust until I get the 1/16"-18" play. The clutch lever is a tough one to guage, as it feels tight, but then if you give it a good tug, you can move it the recommended amount. I'll have to go back in the primary and see if I have it right there. I have the std. Harley oil in there now, I was curious as to whether the synthetic would be a better choice.
Thanks for the help, as the manual leaves some gray.
This is an additional followup. I went out and tried it for the third time. I screwed the adjustment screw out until I felt resistance and it just started to move the outer ramp. Do you have to hold the outer ramp inward to insure good engagement? I then backed the screw down 1/4 turn. Then I tightened up the cable adjuster while moving the cable up at the lever so when the play hit about dime size, I called it a day. I had the bike on its jiffy stand so discovered right away why I had it propped up before, oil started to run out the clutch opening. The oil level is just ticking or a hair below the clutch spring, so close hard to call. I did notice the oil seemed thick, almost gummy, so maybe this is the problem. It's HD Sport Trans oil as recommended so maybe the cooler weather has something to do with it. Hopefully it'll be o.k. now.
ctd said:Rick, thanks for the help, I am treading new territory so need to get familiar with what things feel like. I just took the bike for a ride and it shifts fine, no crawling sitting still and the clutch starts to move the bike about 1" off the grip. It "clunks" going into 1st from neutral, but I suppose that's from the inertia of the clutch being stopped when it freewheels in neutral. Seems to be fine, so I appreciate the patience.
I always start mine in gear. I park it in 1st and when I start it up Im gonna be moving with in 15 or 20 seconds. Im all ready to move when I hit the start button.brownjams said:although this is slightly off topis, why would you have it in gear when starting. in nuetral and clutch pulled in is how I always start my bike.
brownjams said:I was told by a HD mechanic that when the bike is cold to let it warm up and let the oil get throughout the engine, not to fire it up and ride. I'm just going by what he said. real cold about a 2 minute warm up.
My thoughts are that all engine systems are operating at idle. On a Sportster that is 1000 RPMs I believe. Mine idles at 1050 or about. It stands to reason that if a motor cools by way of the oil that oil should be circulating at idle, as well as the battery charging. When I start up from a dead cold I need to enrich it and that brings the idle up to 1200 or so. I never worry that oil isnt pumping and I dont sit around too long at idle. It all comes out in the wash.ctd said:I wouldn't think low RPM (slow idle) would be good as I thought the oil pressure was minimal or almost non-existant at a slow idle. I've read where the slow idle sounds cool, but is determental due to the oil system. Any ideas?