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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All...

I have a 2011 Superglide Custom (love this bike) but I want to hide the wiring that is attached to the handlebars. My bars are the standard reach, "Pull Back" bars. They are comfortable, but the wiring hanging off them is ugly as sin.

Does anyone know if these bars can be drilled out, allowing me to snake the wires through, of will I have to get new bars? The dealer is being less than helpful in this matter.

Any suggestions y'all have will be greatly appreciated.

In the wind,

JL
 

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Just a kid at heart
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597 Posts
All bars are hollow.

This is a big job involving lots of disconnecting, cutting, splicing, etc and then trying to squeeze that bundle of wires through a narrow space.

If you really want to do this it will cost you some bucks and a bunch of time. Look to the aftermarket for kits that are built to do this. I would also consider going with a larger diameter bar to allow more room for wiring. Don't get a set of bars designed to fit you stock clamp, there will be a restriction at the stock diameter in the clamp area.
 

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0043--Licensed to Doof!
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Numerous aftermarket bars out there made for internal wiring. I happen to have a set of Wild1's chubby bars (1 1/4") on my dresser. It's a snap, but time consuming to run the wires internally. You'll need a service manual. All you need to do is:
Remove wires. They plug in under your tank.
Disassemble the plugs.
Run wires thru new bars.
Reassemble plugs
The plugs are numbered/color coded. I followed my manual, and had the thing done in about 6 hours. Good winter project!!

Don't be afraid to try it on your own. And for Pete's sake, don't pay someone for something you can do on your own!! You get to learn your bike this way too!!
 

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The bars could be drilled out but it's a tad difficult to get an oval shaped hole at the right location under the switch housings and then file the edges smooth etc. And of course the bottom (between the risers) needs drilled too.

Check your bars for dimples at (under) the switch housings, the OEM street bob bars have these dimples. If you have them that is where it needs drilled.

If it were me I would just buy some predrilled bars like the Wild1s that I currently have (cost me $200). But if you have the time, tools and patience to drill your own it is doable. Just file eveything smooth and blow out the bars good so no metal shavings are still in there.

The wiring doesn't disconnect at the switches, but rather under the frame (by the neck, below the tank) there is a plastic gusset that removes out the bottom. You have to locate and disconnect the connectors there and then remove the wire pins from the connectors one by one. It's a bit of work like the above poster said, but again can be done.

Here are the videos I made when I did mine sometime back. YouTube has size limits so there are 3 of them, even though I tried to keep it to just the essentials, but wanted to cover everything.

Part 1 (Removal)

Part 2 (Removal)

Part 3 (Bar install)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I really appreciate everything you guys have said. I guess in the back of my mind I already knew it wasnt going to be easy, but it should be worth it! Yes, I have the manual and I will do it myself.

RWB, those videos were a great help, thanks a million for posting them! I love the idea of hanging some of the parts from the ceiling.

I'll probably take your advice as well, Geezer_Glide, and get bigger bars to make sure that there is plenty of room for all of the wiring.

Thanks again, and I'll let y'all know how it comes out!
 

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I did this mod a coupla yrs ago I bought some 14" bars to replace the stock 10".I got the 1" round bars,can't remember brand but just generic bars,did the whole project in about 1/2 day.Had to get longer throttle/idle cables.Hardest part was getting the connectors out from frame.sure did clean up the look and worth the effort.
 

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Swamprat Rider
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The bars could be drilled out but it's a tad difficult to get an oval shaped hole at the right location under the switch housings and then file the edges smooth etc. And of course the bottom (between the risers) needs drilled too.

Check your bars for dimples at (under) the switch housings, the OEM street bob bars have these dimples. If you have them that is where it needs drilled.

If it were me I would just buy some predrilled bars like the Wild1s that I currently have (cost me $200). But if you have the time, tools and patience to drill your own it is doable. Just file eveything smooth and blow out the bars good so no metal shavings are still in there.

The wiring doesn't disconnect at the switches, but rather under the frame (by the neck, below the tank) there is a plastic gusset that removes out the bottom. You have to locate and disconnect the connectors there and then remove the wire pins from the connectors one by one. It's a bit of work like the above poster said, but again can be done.

Here are the videos I made when I did mine sometime back. YouTube has size limits so there are 3 of them, even though I tried to keep it to just the essentials, but wanted to cover everything.

Part 1 (Removal)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9XK3Tlu0tk

Part 2 (Removal)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEBG8NWRuG8

Part 3 (Bar install)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vkoq6kLlqw

Nice Video link RWB Wish had seen this before did my FXR4 but still got 'er done ..
 

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I have a 2005 Electra Glide Classic. I drilled my stock bars and ran my wires internally, and my harness is fatter than the Dynas as I have extra wires (cruise control, radio, etc). If you don't want to have to buy handlebars, try drilling yours.

Granted, on yours the "bottom" hole/space is crucial as you don't want to do an ugly job. On mine, that part is hidden inside the inner fairing so cosmetics wasn't an issue. But if you're patient, would think you could make it look decent.

Warning, Harley bars are stainless and hard as crap. I used an air tool to do mine.
 

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I bought Santee bars on EBay and ran the wires internally, very inexpensive bars and look good (plus I wanted black bars). May be easier than drilling your present bars.
 

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No matter what bars you get make, sure you smooth out the holes (with a die grinder or file) that you are running the wires through. Wild 1's are pretty smooth, but some of the others are pretty sharp there. I have seen guys burn all the wires up when it cut into the insulation at the hole in the bar. Hit the starter and poof... Wires don't seem to work real well after you let the smoke out of them. If you have to splice any wires, stagger them so they are not all lumped up in one spot.
 
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