My mechanic told me the idea behind the 1 peice clamp was they were stronger. The 508's give the rider more leverage and apparantly there have been a "few" instances of failure. He didn't think it was required, but had a 1 peice clamp laying around so used it anyway. I think the 1 peice is std. on lots of models which is why he had a spare.
It is not necessary to cut or lengthen any wires. Releasing
wire looms inside the housing from the two retaining clips
frees up additional length needed. Disconnect the control
wire pins from the junctions leaving all wires attached at the
switch housings. From bar ends run the wire looms through
the bars and plug the pins back into the junctions.
The stock upper brake line is too short to follow the shape
of the bars, so it must be straightened to angle from the m/c
to the forks. This can be done with the line intact and does
not require bleeding the brake lines. You can pull more of
the soft line up from below if needed. Using a small tube
bender on the hard upper line will enable you to get it to
look the best. It won't follow the contour of the bar so the
cleaner you get the bend the better it will look!
Stock clutch, throttle and idle cables are adequate and look
fine. On 2002 models the throttle and idle cables must be
routed behind the cruise control module.
One more thing, take the circlip off and remove pivot 13 then carefully WITHOUT rubbing on the Brake light switch inside the housings, ease the front brake lever out and remove completely BEFORE you loosen the switch housings.
That way you won't damage the front brake light switch inside when you split the housings.
If you do that you can ignore what the FM says
about using cardboard to wedge in at the lever.......what lever?