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Discussion Starter #1
I have HP-Plus pipes on my 2002 Harley Davidson Electraglide Standard with the carbureted TC88.

It also has the Screaming Eagle Performance Air Cleaner Kit for the TC88, and the the Dynojet Kit "A premium performance modification kit for Original Equipment CV carburetors. Unique configuration calibrated for the Twin Cam 88® engine. Works well with free breathing intake and exhaust. For race application only." Installed by previous owner.

I am having problems dialing in the proper jetting with the above added equipment.

Nothing done with the slow jet, or the low speed mixture screw adjustments

Idle speed is 1100 RPMS

180 main jet is now installed, and it kinda tinny pops or raps kinda while accelerating, seems like I hear a sawing sound, and it doesn't sound quite right, but gets about 35 MPG touring.

Previously, the main was 185, and the pipe sounded smooth and throaty, but mileage was only 25 MPG-27 MPG touring and had occasional backfire problems on deceleration. It seemed like it was too rich.

Plugs were the color of Nestlé's Quick chocolate milk drink powder with the 185 jet. Not sure, but I think the stock jet is 190.

What type of jetting/adjustments for a baseline would you folks recommend to go along with the Chromewerks HP-Plus pipes for my current set up?

My first Harley so be gentle, and any information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Henry Zwolenkiewicz

:confused:
 

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Can I call you Z ?

One would imagine the idle mixture plug has been drilled out.

With the DJ needle, 45 or 42 low, 175 main maybe even 170 if they are DJ jets as opposed to Keihin jets, needle with the clip in the 2nd groove from top with one of the little washers under the clip and the other two on top. This effectively drops the needle in by half a groove from the middle position.
Put the stock spring back in. If the slide has been drilled oh well, if it hasn't leave it that way.

If this doesn't work throw the DJ stuff away and run the stock needle shimmed up .040" (2 #4 washers) with the stock 45 or maybe 46 low and 190 main. Adjust mixture to best idle and then rpm at the throttle stop and you should be in business.

Stock needle means the needle that originally came with the bike, if the bike had a emissions recall done all bets are off.
Make sure the accel pump nozzle sprays into the center of the throath, not on the needle but just to the rear of the needle.
 

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The diaphragms are like AMFAF (a monkey fu(king a football), put them in the freezer for while before reinstalling, if they are not 100% correct you will have all sorts of fun.

Also make sure the choke cable closes fully and has a bit of free play, as the mileage numbers sound too low for even a grossly misjetted CV.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Man, you guys are fast, didn't expect such a quick reply, especially on Christmas. You can call me Z, everyone else does.

The idle plug has been drilled, but the slide hasn't. It has the Dynojet spring, and the jets are dynojet not keihin.

I'll try your suggestion Hippo, and get the main down to 175-170 and get the shims on the needle jet. Not sure what the slow jet is, but I will try your recommendation of 45 or 42. Sounds like a plan. However, gonna have to wait until the weekend though. Will let you know the results.

Thanks a lot, this is great information, and a very good board. Great folks out on the board everynight.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night.

Z
 

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Hippo, how does one tell that the choke (oops, scuse me, fuel enrichener) cable closes fully? As it is all enclosed I haven't been able to determine how to tell, or even see how it can be adjusted. I have suspected it for some time, but been unable to do anything about it. The book doesn't say anything specific. The dealer, early on, said it was not correct and they had adjusted it but I have my doubts, since they didn't do anything else they said they did.
Z, your slow jet is beside your main jet and accessible through the float bowl, it should have been a 45 as stock, I don't believe DynoJet supplies a replacement for it in the kit. BTW, I trashed my dealer installed kit, and did a version of what Hippo recommended.
 

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Take the choke assembly off the carb and check the piston and it's movement, make sure the cable is screwed all the way into the carb body and that the cable housing is not stretched or routed in a bind.
With the carb in your hand it becomes very obvious when pushing the knob in as the piston should bottom in it's travel just before the knob does against the retainer nut.

Sounds like Dr Ruth, eh? <G>
 

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Also the Mikuni choke cable is much better quality and more flexible then the Keihin choke cable. Some of the cables are interchangeable.
The threaded part that secures the cable to the engine mount bracket is metal on the Mikuni as opposed to plastic and doesn't stretch or break like with the Keihin one.
 

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Also the fricion adjuster can be set too tight, it's best set with low friction to where it will not hold the choke fully open, ie you need to hold the choke knob if you want it open all the way, it shouldn't stay there anyway inmediately after the bike started.
 
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