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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I just purchased a chopper with a S&S 124" Super Sidewinder engine. ( side note I also own a 2011 street glide). My plan is to drain a
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ll fluids and fill with fresh fluid. My question is is there a sight glass or dip stick to check fluid level of engine? I also have a oil reservoir under the seat and wonder how that plays into the servicing of the oil system? One other question the bike idles fine but when I squeeze that throttle back and get on it the engine bogs down any suggestions?

Thanks
 

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The engine is a dry sump, which means no need to drain. Just drain the tank and change the filter.

Sent from my SM-A102U using Tapatalk
 

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He just wanted to put a picture of his new ride where somebody would see it. It's not a real question.

Also, S&S engines don't like to be run hard. Just ease into the gas and it should do all right.
 

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With the cams being more mid to upper rpm and a super G carb you won't get the crack throttle response till your over 3k rpm. Any less she'll bog down
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry should have specified... The carb is a S&S Shorty I have read about the Super G not sure if my shorty will work.
 

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if it doesnt have a G on it, somebody screwed up

what the ?? S&S engines dont like to he run hard? thats 180° opposite my observations or you could be joking..

the D 8s not made in shorty configuration,, it is primarilly a racing carb..

most S&S carb rideability issues, especially on the large engines is by radically incorrect tuning..
i have tuned untold numbers of engines, and many has S,&S carbs,, they are really simple.
the majority of new to rider S&S carb rideability are the fault of riders needing to break bad throttling habits, especially on smaller engines..most 9f these riders are used to their CV carb covering their mistakes,,,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
u forgot to ask what fluids....nice bike...get the right fluids
Copy just picked up fluidsĺ today. drained the external tank and engine maybe a quart came out. Bike will only hold about 2 quarts. the oil is all the way to fill port in the reservoir. I worried why it only takes 2 quarts and should oil be at the top of the reservoir?
 

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The G works great on the 124" but its not perfect. As i found its not possible to tune it properly without adding a thunder jet. Without it you are forced to lose somewhere in the rpm range. If you jet for top end power shell be stumbling mid range. If you jet for midrange you'll be lean up top. Do not run these motors lean..with the thunder jet adding the third fuel circuit just to feed the large fuel demand up top you can now use the main jet to tune for midrange power. When set properly the motor is an animal and very quick revving with tons of power. Ive been tthrough all of these things and mine puts down 132hp 143tq max torque around 4700rpm and peak hp at about 5900rpm. Will scream all day long and eat fuel like a whore....lol. Get the thunder jet done. Also make sure you have a high flow petcock....mandatory hardware for the big bores..run mid length open drags these big motor love high flow exhaust. Throw away everything you thought you knew about exhaust tuning it won't work with the big inch motors.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The G works great on the 124" but its not perfect. As i found its not possible to tune it properly without adding a thunder jet. Without it you are forced to lose somewhere in the rpm range. If you jet for top end power shell be stumbling mid range. If you jet for midrange you'll be lean up top. Do not run these motors lean..with the thunder jet adding the third fuel circuit just to feed the large fuel demand up top you can now use the main jet to tune for midrange power. When set properly the motor is an animal and very quick revving with tons of power. Ive been tthrough all of these things and mine puts down 132hp 143tq max torque around 4700rpm and peak hp at about 5900rpm. Will scream all day long and eat fuel like a whore....lol. Get the thunder jet done. Also make sure you have a high flow petcock....mandatory hardware for the big bores..run mid length open drags these big motor love high flow exhaust. Throw away everything you thought you knew about exhaust tuning it won't work with the big inch motors.
Just looked up the thunder jet that is exactly want I need thanks I will ordering it now.
 

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the D 8s not made in shorty configuration,, it is primarilly a racing carb..
That's why I had the question mark after the D. I wasn't sure and I knew somebody on here would know. :)
 

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Also have an air bleed modification done on the carb also. Basically an external bowl vent that has a changeable jet in it as well. This allows adjustment as to what rpm the main jet will come in. Just these few mods will make a big difference.
 

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listen to arcangel,, his advice is all correct.. also use 5/16" fuel line.. mine can suck an fxr tank dry, in under 60 miles if i run on the big end hard. average m8leage is around 33mpg.. jets are 35 low speed, 80 main jet, 165 thunder jet and 2.00 air bleed..
 

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Yep that tank estimate is correct it will eat a tank full in no time....its a hot setup. I have the 10.8:1 compression and 640 cam. you need a high flow air intake.. and you will require a pro clutch it will roast the stock clutch pack. Here are my jet settings at sea level in NY. I also have a bombsite venturi so my jet sttings may differ slightly from Terry. You should come in somewhere within these numbers.

Intermediate = 31
Main = 82
Air bleed = 1.60
T jet = 165
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the jet settings that helps a lot as for the pro clutch I just got the bike but hopefully it already has one.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have another question.. Should the crankcase breather be plugged off with no filter? The bike I bought has it blocked off not sure if it has to have a breather on it? I suppose it might have been blocked off so no oil leaks out onto tire in the event the oil pushed up though it.
 

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