If you'll do a search on here for "Green Light" switch you'll find ALL kinds of comments and such on these. Have been around for a number of years now. I do know that I've attached a couple computer hard drive magnets to my underframe and it works. Can't see spending that kind of $$$$ on some magnets with I already have a bunch of 'em.Sixgun said:
True. ( I just asked the TE that works with me).GaryInSanDiego said:The important thing is to roll over the tar seal that covers the loop, then stop with your wheel on the edge of the loop parallel with the bike. The rim is very close to the road surface and has a better chance to induce a current change in the loop than a magnet several inches above the road. You can test the magnetic field of a magnet by placing some steel shavings on a table and bringing the magnet slowly close to them. When you see them start to move, that's the approximate distance of edge of the magnetic field from the magnet. If that distance is less than the distance from the mounting position of the magnet on the bike to the road surface, then the magnet likely won't work. Another variable is the sensitivity of the loop circuitry, and it is adjustable by traffic engineers. It has to be high enough so that it works with small/high vehicles in the lane, but not sensitive enough that large/wide vehicles trigger it from adjacent lanes.
How do ya know for sure it's the magnet?Clutchcargopa said:Here in Pa the northeast and certainly on the west coast the magnet works very well. For a 10 dollar investment it operates and functions for me. Just trying to help and shed light on the subject.-2$en#e-
Cop_Stanger said:How do ya know for sure it's the magnet?