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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Road King Classic. It wasn't charging the battery so I change the regulator with no success. If I unplug the regulator and put a volt meter, set to AC, on the output of the alternator/stator I show voltage. Any ideas on what it might be or could it still be the alternator/stator. When I put my volt meter on the regulator lead that connects to the circuit breaker/fuse it does not show any voltage coming from the regulator which I changed.

Is there a better test I could do.

Rich
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What voltage do you get across the battery terminals with the bike running?
Lots of possible causes for charging issues, regulator, wiring, bad ground, stator or rotor.
There's a flow chart and a bunch of tests spelled out in the 2001 HD Electronic Diagnostic Manual part number 99495-01.
 

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What is the AC voltage the stator is putting out at idle, 2000rpm, 3000 rpm? Did you check to see if the stator is going to ground? All tests are easy if you have a factory service manual. With a manual I am confident you will diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With the engine running I'm getting about 12.5 volts on the battery, but that is only after charging it with my battery charger. When it happened I was able to get home and the voltage was below 11. I replaced the regulator with no luck.

At idle I'm getting at least 13 to 14 volts AC from the Alternator could be more, but I can't remember the exact voltage. It goes up when I bring the RPM up quite high actually could be up to 20 or so. That is what seems strange that since I'm getting voltage out of the alternator and I replaced the regulator you would think it would be giving me voltage to the battery. I've checked my grounds and they look great. I also put in a brand new battery about a week ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By the way my service manual doesn't give me any good diagnostic checks only says if no charging it could be this this or this but not how to trouble shoot. I didn't see if the stator was going to ground. How would I check that and if I'm getting voltage out would I still need to do that.
 

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Unplug the stator from the regulator, with the bike off. Then using a Ohm meter in the Rx1 scale, place one probe into a pin, on the stator, and the other probe to ground. You should ready infinite resistance (open). Then check the each of the other 2 pins and make sure none of them read shorted to ground.

Using the same Ohm meter and same scale, check all the pins in the plug on the stator to each other. For example, place one meter probe in pin 1 and the other probe in pin 2 and you should read 0.1-0.2 Ohms. Now check between pin 1 and 3 and then between pin 2 and 3. All the reading should be the same. None of them should measure an OPEN.

So essentually, you dont want any of them shorted to ground and you want all of them shorted to each other.

If it passes those tests, Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually I only have 2 pins coming the the Alternator that plug into the regulator. What would the ohm test be for them.

Thanks

Rich
 

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With only 2 pins, you just should measure 0.1-0.4 ohms across the 2 pins. And it should put out 19-24 VAC per 1000 rpms. And neither of the pins should be shorted to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm getting about 30 volts at 2000 RPM and 60 volts at 3000 RPM but I'm not showing any ohm reading when I do the ohm test. Does it sound like it is the alternator or should I check something else. By the way I changed the regulator yesterday which didn't help.

Thanks

Rich
 

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Your voltage reading sounds about right. But I think you should read a near short between the 2 pind on the stator side of the connector. And you should read a open between each pin on the stator side and ground. I would have to double check to be certain but I am pretty sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I would appreciate it you could check. I didn't do an ohm check between each pin and ground. Just between the two pins and there definately isn't a short. I wonder what the chances are that my original regulator was bad and the new one is bad as well. Do you think I would be getting voltage from the stator if it was bad. Could something on the other side of the regulator be bringing it down. It seems to run great. I wonder if it would help to remove the regulator lead from the circuit breaker and try to get a voltage reading or would the regulator not put out since it wouldn't be seeing the battery.

Thanks

Rich
 

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I confirmed what I thought. The 2 pins in the stator plug should measure shorted or 0.1-0.4 ohms. Then measure from either pin to ground and that should be Open or infinite (no reading), same for the other pin to ground. If it fails any of these tests it is a bad stator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the info. I was hoping since I got a voltage reading from the alternator that it was something else. I think it is time to take it to the Harley Dealer since my shop manual shows a puller and a device to lock the primary while undoing the bolt and I don't have either.

Rich
 

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rwilabee said:
Thanks for the info. I was hoping since I got a voltage reading from the alternator that it was something else. I think it is time to take it to the Harley Dealer since my shop manual shows a puller and a device to lock the primary while undoing the bolt and I don't have either.

Rich
When you take it in, tell them what you found and then tell them to confirm it before replacing any parts.

Also check your meter and make sure you have in on Ohms Rx1. To confirm your meter is working properly, just touch the probes to each other and the reading should go to 0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll be sure to tell them what I found. I have a Fluke meter and and think it has auto ranging on it and was using that when I checked. I might be able to put it in manual mode.

Thanks for all the great ideas.

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to bring everyone up to date.

I took the bike to Harley and it was the Stator. When I got the stator back you could see where the wire was broken just at the point where it disappeared into some epoxy type material where it is probably soldered to the windings. I may have been getting some voltage as it was still making some contact with the other half of the wire probably during vibration when the engine was running. I also opted for the 45 amp Rotor while they had it apart. On Road King Classics the Rotor is a 38 amp, until 2006 where they went to 50 amps on all bikes. The Stator was the same for 38 amp or 45 amp.

Rich
 
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