[cox9000]

Thanks for the link DJW. I think I've seen this link posted somewhere before and I even remember visiting the site but somehow over-looked their dealers -- there is a dealer real close to me so I'll check them out and use this oil.

 

[V-ROD 1 FL]

This subject is always like discussing Religion and Politics.

My 1 cents worth is:

1. If Harley spent 5 plus years testing and evaluating the V-ROD and is willing to warranty it why would you want to take "the man in the street's" word for whats best??

2. When is the last time you heard of a Harley motor failing because of using their oil?? And look at all of the motors they have on the road!!

3. If both products are reliable, and you are going to change it at the stated intervals anyway then it doesn't make sense to put a lot more money into an oil that is providing essentially the same benefits.

4. What are you going to do if you are on the road on a trip and need service at the dealership? MY UNDERSTANDING is that you can't go back to normal oil once you start using synthetic.

5. If a problem does occur with your motor, and HD does advise you that you're SOL because of your oil choice, it sure seems that the expense and inconvenience in attempting to get them to come around to your way of thinking would FAR EXCEED the value of using Mobile 1 in the first place.

6. AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRES AND THERE IS MORE RIDER EXPERIENCE -- I say choose whatever oil "Float your boat".

 

[Sidewalk]

This subject is always like discussing Religion and Politics.

My 1 cents worth is:

1. If Harley spent 5 plus years testing and evaluating the V-ROD and is willing to warranty it why would you want to take "the man in the street's" word for whats best??

Becuase HD wants your money. Why would they suggest buying from someone else?

[2. When is the last time you heard of a Harley motor failing because of using their oil?? And look at all of the motors they have on the road!!

When was the last ime you heard of a failure from another oil?

3. If both products are reliable, and you are going to change it at the stated intervals anyway then it doesn't make sense to put a lot more money into an oil that is providing essentially the same benefits.

Opinion

4. What are you going to do if you are on the road on a trip and need service at the dealership? MY UNDERSTANDING is that you can't go back to normal oil once you start using synthetic.

False rumor

5. If a problem does occur with your motor, and HD does advise you that you're SOL because of your oil choice, it sure seems that the expense and inconvenience in attempting to get them to come around to your way of thinking would FAR EXCEED the value of using Mobile 1 in the first place.

By law, you do not have to use thier oil.

6. AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRES AND THERE IS MORE RIDER EXPERIENCE -- I say choose whatever oil "Float your boat".

Yep

 

[chiselchst]

Hippo's Right (Imagine That...)

I have been a process operator in a large West Coast Refinery for over 23 years, and we do make many "other" brands of lubes for many companies. We have a very modern lube oil process and blending facillity. The best on the West Coast.

Each product is made to a ceratin spec, and the additive packages are all proprietarily different. Oils and lubes more so than fuels.

With gasoline, the standard base product is very much, actually IS the same. The difference there lies in the different brands of additives, and the geographical location the product is intended for.

I can take a walk around our Lubes Division and packaging and grease, and couldn't count the many NAME brand of oils we make, for other lube suppliers. Lots of cases of many brands of oils...all made by one facillity.

You can also see Exxon, Arco, etc fuel trucks loading in our gaso racks. They won't be carrying the Chevron Techron Additive package, but they have own "their" additive product.

Petroleum products are very much a commodity, unlike what I imagined before learning what I have.

 

[Sidewalk]

Do you work at the Long Wharf facility?

 

[chiselchst]

No...

I do not work at the Long Wharf...

 

[Sidewalk]

Re: No...

I do not work at the Long Wharf...

Mind if I ask where?

 

[chiselchst]

OK, What The Hell...

I work in D&R Division, LSFO West.

We make most of the components used in CARB Gasoline and regular MOGAS, also Diesel and Jet. Both the jet and diesel fuels leave our plants as a finished product, but to make todays gasolines, the component blending is pretty complicated. That blending is done outside our Division...

 

[DJW]

1. If Harley spent 5 plus years testing and evaluating the V-ROD and is willing to warranty it why would you want to take "the man in the street's" word for whats best??

VR-1 FL, I don't necessarily disagree with point number 1, but I think you may be overestimating HD's concern for your engine. I think the question being discussed here is what the LONG term affect of using a sythetic oil is vs. the HD citgo can. I won't pretend to know, but I won't take HD's word for it either. That's what this whole consumer oriented site is for.

 

[PAS22]

I have been a strong believer in synthetic oils from day one with my off-road race traucks. Also have used Mobil 1 V-twin in my Honda Sabre since first oil change. No problems. My concern with my V-Rod is two fold. Mobil 1 also markets an overhead cam cycle synthetic (forgot the name) so which would be better? Secondly, I second the response as to voiding the warranty. Although it doesn't with Honda I don't know with H/D and our V-Rods.

Pete

 

[HIPPO]

The other Mobil1 synthetic is the M4T or something like that. It has little to do with overhead cams, it is specifically formulated for motorcycles that have a common sump for engine and gearbox and has to be much more shear resistant for this reason.

How much of this is fact and fiction I don't want to discuss, but there is some difference and it is better to err on the safe side.
Mobil could just as well made one motorcycle oil and sold it under the same pretense.

 

[PAS22]

Thanks, and your right about the oil differences. It could also boil down (not litteraly) to the difference between additives. I know the service people at the dealer suggest H/D oil, but then I don't know if they have had much experience with synthetics.

Pete

 

[mnv-rod]

I changed over to Mobil 1's 20w50 V-Twin oil and after getting the quantity issue resolved (another post in the engine area) and about a hundred miles on it I'll throw in a quick observation.

The shifting has improved quite dramatically to nice little clicks rather than the clunking the bike used to exhibit. It also appears that RPMs are down about 100-200 at highway speeds and there are fewer noises coming from the engine.

At the maintenance intervals for this bike Mobil1 gets pretty spendy. Many people don't hang on to one bike long enough to reap the claimed extended engine life by going synthetic. To each their own.

For me, I like the change and will stick with it.

 

[Sidewalk]

It also appears that RPMs are down about 100-200 at highway speeds

That is mechanical not possible. Unless, your clutch was slipping before, in which case, I doubt your clutch would still exist.

 

[chiselchst]

Sidewalk, But Wait...

Maybe Hippo left one out in his posting of..."The Dangers of Synthetics"

Hippo should consider adding, and synthetic oil will change your final gear ratio (or maybe that's due to the rounded teeth?).

V-Rods don't have a VRT due they? (kidding...)

 

[mnv-rod]

I said, "also appears that", not I'm sure this is what caused it. Prior to changing oil I would be right above the 4k RPM line @60mph in 5th. Now the needle is all the way below 4k at the same speed. OK, educate me. Nothing else has changed.

Generally I find forums like this a good means to find information and determine if other owners are having a similar experience. Let's be careful not to create an atmosphere in the bike discussions where people are afraid to post for fear of ridicule, ok?

Thanks!

 

[Sidewalk]

Let's be careful not to create an atmosphere in the bike discussions where people are afraid to post for fear of ridicule, ok?

Thanks!

You ar not going to find that here.

The way the power gets transmitted from the engine to the rear wheel is definite. The crankshaft drives the primary chain/belt/gears, which turns connects to the clutch pack. When the clutch is engage, the power is applied to the input shaft to the gears. Depending on which synchro is engage will determine what gear you are in. Regardless, what gear it is, the RPM transferred through the gear will always be the same in respect to the ratio (meaning, the gears never change ratio themselves). In a five speed tranny, there are 5 sets of gears of various ratio. This does not change. After the power is transmitted from the input shaft gear to the output shaft gear, it then goes to the rear drive belt/chain/shaft to the rear wheel. The single place that is suseptible to slippage (the only cause for higher RPM's from any given gear) is the clutch pack.

If, for some reason the clutch pack was slipping, it would fail in short order. The amount of friction that would take place would heat up the clutch to a critical point where the material would begin to fail. If it was slipping so little as not to create enough heat to do this, the resulting loss of friction material (just like normal use causes) would still cause the clutch to fail prematuraly. The clutch is only designed to slip during clutch engagement (like from a stop).

 

[mnv-rod]

Very impressive! That is a response worthy of inclussion in a powertrain FAQ!

Come to think of it, anyone have any thoughts on a V-Rod FAQ?

 

[musclewheels]

what do I flush my old mineral oil out with if I change to synthetic?

 

[JMS]

musclewheels, no need to flush out the dino oil before changing to synthetic.

JMS