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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone out there please walk me through a clutch adjustment like you would do on the 10,000 check. The one in the primary at the clutch.
 

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If you want to do your own maintenance the best money you can spend is buying the service manual for your bike. This is one of the first thing's people should purchase when buying a scoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got it (service manual), thats why I am asking the question LOL. The book is pretty good, just in this case it is a little confusing. Just wanted to talk with someone who has done and walk me through it once.
 

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BFFB
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its real easy ,, im sure no mechanic and i do it,,,but my book says every 5k,,loosen clutch adjustment at the cable all the way,,loosen lock nut ,,back hex screw out a little ,,run it in till its lightly seated and back out 1/2 turn,,then hold the set screw with allen wrench and tighten the lock nut,, i think your book will call for 10 lb?? which always seemed light to me but ive been told you can tighten it more??only thing is i really dont understand why so often??
 

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woodwalkertc88 said:
...only thing is i really dont understand why so often??
Clutch plates wear and cables stretch. This schedule will practically ensure that your clutch is in proper adjustment all the time. I also like to lube the cable when I do an adjustment. It makes a world of difference in the feel of the clutch pull, BTW. My .02
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks to both of you guys, Woodwalker that makes it sound real simple, just the book was a little vague in which item was being held and which tightened LOL. Thanks for the lube tip twin, I appreicate it.
 

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BFFB
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hey tc , what i dont get is i always adjusted at cable on pre hd bikes,,and post hd have been following service manual,,,every 5k,,,i have been suspicious that adjusting at the clutch before it slips or anything was pre maturely wearing the clutch out ?? isnt this adjustment to add slack in the actuateing ?? rod that comes from the end of the cable or does it add slack in between the plates,, forgive my ignorence but i figured quickly that at 10k miles a year dealer services here would average to over 50$ per month ,,so i do my own,,,,even though in this case i really dont understand why
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Woody,
I don't think a properly adjusted clutch adds play at any point, I think it reduces it. The routine of doing every 5K, like the book says, is for the sake of maintaining that absense of slack in the plates. I found long ago that the maintenance manuals were written due to some dufass not doing what needed to be done. So I follow the book, until someone proves me wrong, which has happened LOL. The best I can tell you is if you follow the guidelines of the clutch adj you should get the best performance of your clutch. What about it guys, any comments to the contrary?
 

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navyharley said:
Woody,
I don't think a properly adjusted clutch adds play at any point, I think it reduces it.
I think you are correct with this thought. Yea, every 5K is prolly not necessary, but each bike will vary IMHO.
 

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Keep the slight bit of slack in the cable as the book outlines by adjusting the cable freeplay at the adjuster about halfway down the cable. This adjuster should also be loosened completely when setting the adjustment of the pushrod behind the derby cover.

For what it's worth, I've got 62K on my bike. Pulled the outer primary off last month to check thickness of the clutch plates. Thickness of new fiber plates is .150". All of my fiber plates were .147 or .148. Book says to replace when they reach .143. I was kinda amazed that they weren't wore more. I live in the country so do more country roads than city stop and go but looks like they would last 100k miles at least.

I've only adjusted the pushrod at the clutch hub every 10K miles. These new clutches don't wear much at all. I think 5K is probably overkill unless you do a lot of brn-out starts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Ed Y, that is very good information. I will probably do it every 5k for a little while then if no noticeable change go to 10k. Always good to hear from someone who has "Been There," thanks a lot.
 

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BFFB
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ed y,,,you seem very knowledgeable on tech questions,,could you answer 1 more ? i do know pulling the cable turns a cam ,,which pushes a rod ,, which spreads clutch plates,,which stops secondary drive sprocket,,,, could you please explain mechanicly exactly what happens when you back the set screw off 1/2 turn ,,,is the rod behind this set screw ???? again please pardon my ignorance but i enjoy servicing my bike and i would like to picture in my mind what i am accomplishing rather than just going thru motions,,,thanks
 

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I'm no expert by any means. I've messed with Harleys for lots of years but theory is not my strong point. Hippo or someone else could probably explain it better. The push rod and throw-out bearing are behind the adjuster screw. All you are really doing is setting tension on the throw-out bearing. Too tight and it will heat up and fail, too loose and clutch won't work properly. I believe the service manual calls for 1/2 to 1 full turn out after contact is made. I've always had the best feeling with a slight bit over 1/2, just to make sure.
 

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EvilMonger
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I am no expert either but I believe also that backing off the screw keeps pressure off the throw out bearing, preventing heat and failure as ED stated above. Also the reason they (HD) want slack in the cable so there is no load on the bearing until clutch is needed/engaged. ED don't sell yourself short, you know your sh!t !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I agree, good to have you on here Ed. Old dogs can learn new tricks, I am living proof LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks LT appreciate the clarification on that, its starting to make sense now LOL. Seriously that is the good part of this site, the exchange of knowlege on something everyone agrees on here, to ride and to ride safely. To do that we have to maintain the equipment. Thanks to all who have posted here, Please keep it up as Harley charges waaaaay too much to take something this simple to them.
 

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Ed and Thealien are both right. If you tighten the screw all the way it would be like holding the clutch lever in a little while you ride, you will burn up the clutch and throw out bearing. The 1/2 to 1 turn keeps the pressure off the components.
And we can all learn something from everyone Ed. Keep on postin':)
 

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if you do not back off 1/2-1 turn you will burn your throw out
too much will not disengage clutch(won'tfind nutural)
 

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Good point fxer. Thanks.
I have no idea Navy.
 
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