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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Trying to visualize what's going on with the flow in the colector is key to figuring out the best plan. The main object is to cause back pressure but to also keep good flow. A natural opposing view.
Two washers would cause more current distortion in the two input streams entering the collector but would have far less effect to generate backpressure as they are smaller and have no chance of blocking any major flow given the have not enough size to stop up the collector.
The single door of larger size would certainly be more effective at building backpressure and in some ways also smother flow as it's basily squeezing the main stream of flow against the wall on one side. I am leaning towards the bigger plate with no hole as it's more effective and I believe would have a less chaotic turbulence and therefore more efficient at flow. All theories at this point but I feel the bigger door may be the ticket.
Both designs when fully open position would have the same area in the stream and in that big of a tube almost negligible loss of flow. So the wide open setting on either is the same.
Glad to have you back Terry, your thoughts or anyone else with knowledge on this would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Yes Terry if it were a fixed baffle the venturi is probably best for effect and flow. I'm looking to have it adjustable. So when I find the sweet spot I can weld a stop on the lever. That would be my cruise setting. Then wide open for screwing around with juice. May set it up with lever or even control with a choke cable. Could get best of both worlds on the fly
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
OK here's what it's looking like so far. The door is welded to shaft and is centered in the hole. The plate is 2 3/4" diameter. In a four inch tube so when closed there is still about 5/8" open space all the way around the perimeter I'm assuming that it would be enough not sure if it should be bigger.... All looks like it should work fine any suggestions if that's closed enough to make the power band move lower?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Installed a lever with stops this allows the door to be fully open against the forward stop and fully closed against the rear stop. After figuring out that area of both circles the 4" pipe and the 2 3/4" baffle plate it works out to almost exactly 50% cut in flow. Probably more when closed due to the plate being perpendicular to the flow. Next I'm going to install a lever with a handle just rearward of the ignition cover so I can reach down and operate it easily. A rod from that lever will operate the door. When we get the backpressure optimal we can relocate the rear pin. This also solves the problem of going to places with noise restrictions and I'm sure will help with hearing the stereo.... I like it
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Everything is done. The results were pretty cool. A pipe so badass it needs a shifter... Lol. The old machined aluminum grips I had got put use and cut down for a shifter knob. 5/8" aluminum solid rod made the stick. A couple small hiem joints and bam. Push it forward till it stops that's "wide open" mode. Pull it back and that's "fully baffled" mode. Can be set anywhere in between and will stay. As I said when the "sweet spot" is found the stop can be relocated permanently. Love how it came out. We decided to go black on the pipe as in silver it just dominates the the look, color and motor. If it works great I may have it sent out for chrome over the winter months but not right now. So now I get the best of both worlds a high rpm high flow 2 into 1 for screaming on the juice or pull it back for quiet torque filled bottom end rpm on demand or anywhere in between. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
nice work,,, I'm really interested in how it runs,,, could be awesome..
Thanks Terry. I have high hopes but plenty of research to back up the theory. This bike has been a hard project because it's not like I can look up stuff that's similar or close to get ideas from. I searched everywhere for info but honestly there isn't anything to compare to. Try to find another flip tail bagger /drag bike... Lol. That makes it harder. But I do count on the think tank that is this forum. I appreciate you guys chiming in with your experience. It's getting harder nowadays to find guys that build anything motors, bikes, ect. Seems the custom market has been reduced to adding chrome air cleaner and new grips to a new CVO..... Lol. It's not about how big your motor is is more about how big your dash screen is.... Haha. I'll continue on in the other thread and certainly update the results. Thanks
 

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Will be interesting to see how it reacts on the dyno, and seat of the pants. You should be prepared to make another pipe with a step up to 2" at around the 4" - 6" from flange to increase midrange power.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Will be interesting to see how it reacts on the dyno, and seat of the pants. You should be prepared to make another pipe with a step up to 2" at around the 4" - 6" from flange to increase midrange power.
Yes when I have it dyno'd I'm gonna have it done with door shut as well to see if all the theories actually worked out as planned.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey Cwilks, thought you'd get a kick out of this... Some guy on another site told me his Jims 120" would kick my Volvo look alike's a$$...... I had to laugh at that one that's funny. Wished him the best of luck. Told him the only way he'd stand a chance was if my bike weighed as much as an actual Volvo when it's done.. Lol
 
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