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54 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Have a 2010 bagger with ac, D&D Boss pipe (thanks Wurk), Woods tw6 cam and a tune. With winter around the corner I have the performance itch and looking to go with 107 package. After reading through two years worth of posts on this and other forums I am no closer to making a final decision, better yet... faced with so many decisions. I am not looking to recreate the wheel with mix matching parts (what Harley has to offer is not even being considered) and need some advice on performance packages that work well together (please list the parts).

I am also wondering what is the level of difficulty with disassembly and installation of the jugs, pistons, pushrods, and heads. Is this something that someone who is semi mechanically inclined can complete? I have spoken with two vendors about specific packages each having their reasons for selecting certain components.

I have even posted and considered doing 120r swap and selling the 96 motor to offset the costs.

Should the crank be sent out for a 107 build?
Andrews 30 tooth pulley?

I weigh about 215 and occasionally ride two up in the mountains. I am looking for a package that is gonna offer tons of torque.

I'd like to keep the ac, pipe and cam. So if you are willing please build your recommendations around this....

275 Posts
You might as well do the 120R, especially if your looking for torque!! How much $$$$ do you want to spend?

Still the Same!
1,781 Posts
You don't have a Fatcat on a 2010 unless you mixed and matched used. You should have a Boss pipe... which I would keep regardless of the build.

I had a 107 for a couple of years and really loved it on my 09 SG. I did Bigboyz heads, andrews 54s, boss pipe, TTS. Bike made 105hp and 118 tq. The important thing was the tq line crossed 100 right around 2600 rpm. THAT bike taught me how to REALLY ride a HArley and to QUIT riding under 2500 rpms. It came ALIVE at 2800 and was a completely different bike!

I had the crank redone and a timken done, too. Altogether it was around a $6k build with me doing ALL the labor, (D&D Boss is in THIS price). There is an old thread around in the Hyperformance Vendor section. I did the WHOLE build myself except for the Timken. If you get a Harley Service manual, a Harley Parts manual ($60 each) and LISTEN to US, here... I feel you could possibly do this. Budget $500 for some specialty tools or find somebody to borrow GOOD torque wrenches, etc from.

Fast forward... The 09 SG was repoed... I bought a totaled 2010 Ultra. Just installed a 120R. About $6k with all the bits (already had D&D Boss with this price.)... again, my own labor. This engine ALSO crosses 100 around 2500, but goes straight up from there.

So, my first recommendation to you is: if you feel you NEED to do the crank, etc for a 107... just pass on it and do a 120r instead.

But.... I DID the crank on mine (107)and the Timken because I had just had my crank fail. Today, I would save that money and use a stock crank AND I will never do a Timken again. THAT would put a nice 107 within reach for $3ish complete (you HAVE the pipe already). Good savings over a 120, and as much low grunt, too. (Having had both). But... I WILL recommend built cranks in certain builds... just really not Timkens anymore. My 107 crank was an actual piece of ART! No Kidding!!!

Really depends on what you TRULY want out of your bike and where you ride. Strokerjlk and I did 107s at about the same time. Now HE is a riding fool and will do 3k mile bikecations. He went west and told me he could blow down Wingers in the mountains with one downshift.

Last year, with a 120r, he pulled away from the BMWs with NO downshifts. Since Jim had one......... I just HAD to get a 120r, too. Ya Know...? HAHA!!!

Above 3500ish riding and the 120 is hands down the choice. But if you TRULY (its your MONEY afterall) never ride much above 3k or so....... do the 107.

BTW.. I did NOT do any crankwork at all on my 120r. There must be a thousand of em running around and all of us have only heard of ONE crank twist... and that was a rumor at best.

Also, if you crank is say.... .003 or better when you do a build... keep it and check it once every other year or so. Crank failures happen... mine bent on a STOCK 96, but it IS overblown a bit on sites such as this. Why? We abuse our bikes way more and we tend to like power. I feel that I abused mine... not really dammit, but if one rides with some sense... good to go. One of the adjustments one makes on a MOCO product is to baby the crank... NO sliding sideways with the wheel locked up and clutch not pulled in, for example. HAHA!!! If you check the run out on your crank right now and it is over .005... you NEED to fix that. BEFORE making any final decision on which way, of many, you want to go... a few gaskets, pull the exhaust, pull the cone, pull the camplate and measure the damn crank FIRST. That will also get your feet 'wet' on the building stuff.

PS. I HATE to even say this... but to do a 107, I would go with a builders 'kit' for the jugs and pistons. There are at least THREE of us members HERE, that did NOT have the best of luck with an out of the box S&S piston/jug 106 big bore kit. S&S fixed mine to better to perfect, but I feel with THAT hassel... I may just as well had Randy at Hyperformance bore me up a 'kit' and have been done.

Naturally, I would recommend Randy. But other members HERE do good work on piston/ jug big bores and I would check em out. (Think site members and not like Tman.... the MEMBERS are HERE for YOU!!!) Further... don't think you have to buy their 'power kits'. If you are doing a 'standard' 107 with like 54s 555s, etc... nobody can beat the value of Bigboyz heads. They DO, in fact... get the job done on mild builds, and would be the PERFECT candidate for the TW6s you have. Just tell Bean what cam and cubic inches and he will port to match. Those 6s are a great cam for a 107 BTW.

Others will have different opinions... that's GREAT... but this is mine for what it's worth.


54 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply Wurk and the detailed explanations. I plan on purchasing the service manual and I am on the fence about doing the install but, checking run out on the crank maybe out of my league. You say that the "TW6 is for a mild 107 build", I was wondering what cam(s) you might suggest for better torque?

Did I understand your statement: "Just installed a 120R. About $6k with all the bits (already had D&D Boss with this price.)... "

Does this mean that the Boss pipe can be used for 120r motor?


Premium Member
6,900 Posts
truk just about covered it all. good stuff!
something else to consider.... you are nowhere near the compression that the TW 6 needs ,in that 96 ci.
you could do a few things on the cheap,to make the 6 shine.
1. deck the heads to 80 cc. with or without port work,to bump the compression to where you get the bang out of your present setup.
2. bore your clys for SE 103 pistons, cheap bump in compression.
again...to get the most out of your cams.
the 107 ci has been laid out already for you.and if you dont do extensive head work it is still a lot of bang fo the buck.
my take......you might just be happy with what you have if it was set up right.
anymore if you are looking at 107 ci kits that are capable of 120/120.
you might as well throw a 120r crate motor in there.

nothing wrong with the 107 kits, they have evolved into some nice proven combination's. and you can get into the 105hp/115 tq. area fairly cheap.using what you have now. thats leaving off the fluff of timken, plugged/welded cranks,and such. if your going to pull it down to weld/plug/timken,then 107 becomes pretty expensive.you might as well bore the case and go bigger. then you have to go back and consider the 120r now.
so then you have wade through the BS out there on the forums about the 120r's. LOL . listen to those that have them and have ran them. not the 1000 mile a year guys that want a fast barhopper (nothing wrong with that,but not much long term info) or the guys that bought them a year ago when they came out so they can "say" they have one. some have had them going on a year and are still not in a bike and running. but they are still the first to spout advice about how you have to do this or that. LOL. there are lots of opinions of do this do that etc. so look at what is being said and who is saying it.
some will try to convince you that you need to pull it down and do this bla bla bla.
reason is...there is not much labor in a crate install. so lets do this ,this and this.:spank: these motors are really changing the way the aftermarket performance market operates.
15,000 hard miles on mine and the lifters went south,but I caught it in time.
I will say this.. if you dont have the ability to tear one down and do refresh maintenance,or the pocket book to pay someone. then a smaller ci motor with mild lift cams. might be your ticket.
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