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The Anti-RUB
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off, I'm not the one who came up with this idea and it has been posted (reads: buried) in other threads. I just figured I'd post it as its own stand alone thread so others could benefit.

Below is the parts list for the Screamin' Eagle Stage I Kit for EFI Models (part #29773-02B). According to HD's web site it will fit '01-later EFI Softails, (except '05 FLSTFI 15th Anniversary), '02-later EFI Touring and '04-later EFI Dyna models. Does not fit '06 FLHTCUSE models with stock A/C cover. And retails for $139.95 ($108.71 at Zanotti's) not including tax and shipping.

The problem with the kit from HD is that its overpriced and comes with a crappy paper air filter, a gray back plate (that looks like crap on chromed or black engines) and a chrome/polished SE A/C Insert (the little donut that says "Screamin' Eagle" that you stick on the outside of the A/C cover) which also looks like crap on a black A/C cover (IMO).

Anyway, here is the parts list so you can build your own SE Stage-1 A/C (Poor Man's Edition) with a K&N Filter, proper back plate color/style and save yourself a decent amount of $$ in the process. Note, Zanotti's and Fox Performance prices can change and shipping/taxes will vary depending on where you live...

From https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Just enter the part number and the quantity.

Part# - Quantity - Price - Total - Description
29478-05A - 1 - $9.66 - $9.66 - Gray Back Plate
29620-99 - 1 - $6.04 - $6.04 - Chrome A/C Insert (optional)
29583-01A - 1 - $0.83 - $0.83 - A/C Gasket
99642-97 - 1 - $5.68 - $5.68 - 243 Blue Loctite
29557-05 - 2 - $8.88 - $17.76 - Breather Plug
11292 - 2 - $1.16 - $2.32 - O-Ring
29447-99A - 3 - $8.13 - $24.39 - A/C Mounting Stud
3938 - 3 - $1.80 - $5.40 - Torx Screw

Total: $72.08

Then go to http://www.fox-performance.com/ and enter the part # HD-0800 for the K&N air filter. Should be $36.43.

Your total should be around $108.51 (not including tax and shipping). This will give you exactly what is in the SE Stage-1 A/C kit with a way better air filter and without the install instructions. The instructions are available in various threads on this forum.

If you have a chrome engine, you can swap the gray back plate (29478-05A) for a chrome variant (29510-05 for $31.36). Bringing your total to $130.21.

If you have a black engine, you can swap the gray back plate (29478-05A) for a wrinkle black variant (29586-06 for $27.24), and swap the Chrome A/C Insert (29620-99) for a black variant (29567-99 for $6.04). Bringing your total to $126.09.

To re-cap:
Poor Man's Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter = $108.51
HD SE Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter = $176.38 ($145.14 from Zanotti's)

Poor Man's Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter + Chrome backplate - Gray backplate = $130.21
HD SE Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter + Chrome backplate = $207.74 ($176.50 from Zanotti's)

Poor Man's Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter + Wrinkle Black backplate - Gray backplate = $126.09
HD SE Stage-1 A/C + K&N filter + Wrinkle Black backplate = $203.62 ($172.38 from Zanotti's)


Note: The Chrome (29620-99) and Black (29567-99) A/C inserts are optional. They're just accent pieces. They serve no functional purpose. If you don't want it, you don't have to get it, saving yourself $6.

Enjoy, you cheap bastards...
 
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Awesome! But what about us that have a carbed model?
I already have a kit but just need the K&N filter.
 

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Total Nutcase
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The SE/AC uses the same K&N HD-0800 filter on the carbed models and the EFI models. Here are the instructions. I ordered all the parts a while back. Took about 10 minutes to install the whole thing.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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Discussion Starter #5
JamieWG said:
The SE/AC uses the same K&N HD-0800 filter on the carbed models and the EFI models. Here are the instructions. I ordered all the parts a while back. Took about 10 minutes to install the whole thing.
Thanks for posting the instructions. I've been swamped at work and hadn't had time to scan them. Thanks...
 

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Total Nutcase
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petrock said:
Thanks for posting the instructions. I've been swamped at work and hadn't had time to scan them. Thanks...

No prob.. you did a great job of typing up all the part numbers. Everyone should know about this because the kit is a rip-off.
 

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you guys rock.......I am now going to cancel my order for the big sucker which isnt going to be ready til the end of feb. anyway and turn around and buy this stuff. great way to save 50 bucks i must say. thanks a ton for the great idea
 

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Infidel
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Another great way "to stick it to the man"!!
 

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Order placed; went real smoothly until i went to fox and ordered the filter. Their search engine calls for P/N HD-1499,(06 street bob) not HD-0800. I ordered the 0800 one cause it was almost 20 bucks cheaper. I only hope it works and now i'm curious what the difference is between the two to make a 20 dollar difference
Any one have any input??

Again- thanks for the hook up
 

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Thanks petrock

What cover do you need to use with the SE back plate, round or oval, and will those back plates mentioned bolt to the 06 Dynas too? :cheers:
 

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KKRider

Yes they will I have the Build your own kit with K&N 800 on my street bob. You can use the oval or circle cover with the kit. I used the cover from Dewey on mine to get the open filter look.

Floyd
 

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Thanks floyd78

Do you know if anyone is making spacers to move the back plate out away from the engine?

Also, do you have a part # for a round chrome cover that will take the stock Bob trim ring?

:cheers:
 

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The Anti-RUB
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Discussion Starter #16
KKRider said:
Do you know if anyone is making spacers to move the back plate out away from the engine?
Why would you want to do this? It will not improve anything (especially performance) and will only server to make the A/C cover hit your leg.
 

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petrock

At the risk of making this sound like a lecture in the fundamentals of mechanics/performance (it is) let me say this about that.

Cooler air is denser air (always). Anything one can do to cool/reduce temps of the air entering the engine, in theory at least and almost always in practice will further improve performance. When you get rid of the plastic back plate that has some insulating qualities and replace it with an aluminum one, one that is a very efficient conductor of heat you are going the wrong way in that regard. Spacing the back plate away from the heads and upper jugs will allow more air flow between the back plate and heads and the heads will also shed heat more readily. Now, if one was to make the throttle body to back plate spacer and breather spacers out of a phenolic (high insulating qualities) material you could further reduce heat transfer into the plate which in turn reduces heat transfer into the air stream. Here in Souther AZ for example where you can find yourself out riding in 115 degree temps every little bit helps.

As far as the spacer itself hurting performance, (chuckle) the spacer does nothing more than increase plenum storage and tune for a slightly lower rpm, one offsetting other for the most part with such a small (about an inch) increase. Doubt very much you could find it (improvements) on a dyno.

I don't know how tall you are, but at 5' 7" with my skinny ass parked in a stock Bob solo seat I have plenty of room to tuck my leg in behind the air cleaner against the tank. Once I get a round cover on and that safety bump carved out of the seat back so I can slide into a more comfortable position I will have even more leg room. :cheers:
 

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I know the K&N comes with a spacer and should be enouth to keep it off of the engine. I use an after market cover made by dewey of deweyspegs. So I have no problems with it contacting the engine. The round nostalgic cover is part number 29138-91. I don't know if it takes the inserts like the oval on e though..
 

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2005 Road King Classic
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KKRider said:
petrock

At the risk of making this sound like a lecture in the fundamentals of mechanics/performance (it is) let me say this about that.

Cooler air is denser air (always). Anything one can do to cool/reduce temps of the air entering the engine, in theory at least and almost always in practice will further improve performance. When you get rid of the plastic back plate that has some insulating qualities and replace it with an aluminum one, one that is a very efficient conductor of heat you are going the wrong way in that regard. Spacing the back plate away from the heads and upper jugs will allow more air flow between the back plate and heads and the heads will also shed heat more readily. Now, if one was to make the throttle body to back plate spacer and breather spacers out of a phenolic (high insulating qualities) material you could further reduce heat transfer into the plate which in turn reduces heat transfer into the air stream. Here in Souther AZ for example where you can find yourself out riding in 115 degree temps every little bit helps.

As far as the spacer itself hurting performance, (chuckle) the spacer does nothing more than increase plenum storage and tune for a slightly lower rpm, one offsetting other for the most part with such a small (about an inch) increase. Doubt very much you could find it (improvements) on a dyno.

I don't know how tall you are, but at 5' 7" with my skinny ass parked in a stock Bob solo seat I have plenty of room to tuck my leg in behind the air cleaner against the tank. Once I get a round cover on and that safety bump carved out of the seat back so I can slide into a more comfortable position I will have even more leg room. :cheers:
Instead of spacers take your backplate and send it to www.swaintech.com for a ceramic heat reflective coating. It will do more that the spacers could ever hope to in keeping intake temps low.
 

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wkohn

Actually, the people who market the hyper charger have spacers for just about anything. The swain coatings would certainly help, but the proximity to the heads has more to do with it, if you don't believe me grab an engine part that has been swain coated right after you shut the motor off, (ouch!) Getting that big backing plate away from the heads lets the heads get rid of heat a lot faster too, which in turn helps the motor run cooler, etc.

My 1200 Buell Lightning runs damn hot because of the way it's perimeter gas tank/frame holds heat into the head fins, If it weren't for the cooling fan, air scoops and ECM settings it would melt down, especially in AZ in the summer. :cheers:
 
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