I think I like the +4* change to the valve timing. It will certainly move things in the direction you desire.
Looks good though! You'll have fun with it!
Looks good though! You'll have fun with it!
Build Set in Stone Now! What and Why
Well, I am finally pulling the trigger. Over the past two plus years I have been wanting more power and have been researching and buying parts. And researching more and buying different parts and different parts and on and on. First, let me say I am not so much cheap as I am poor. Now, I have made out pretty well on all the wrong parts I've bought. I am a very good ebay shopper and have usually gotten real steals on them. Then when I'd change my mind, I'd re-sell em on ebay and almost always profitted sometimes quite nicely! Anyhow, now all the parts are in hand as well as the cash to pay the wrench. A tuner has been identified and the bike will go to the wrench tomorrow.
Here's my list(pretty cookie cutter, boring actually)
Big Boyz street ported heads
Barrells bored by Freeman Choppers(the wrench for the build)
SE Hi Comp Forged pistons
Andrews TW37b cams the old grind
New polished chain&new bearings and new tensioners
Andrews +4* cam gear(undecided on using this)
Baisley 002 spring
SE Perfect fit pushrods
Gerolamy Ported TB
Rb LSR 2:1 exhaust
Alloyboltz complete engine set, stainless polished bolts
PCIIIr
Cometic complete top end gasket set/ will add .030 head gasket
I think that's about it. I really wanted to go for alot more but with the MM EFI holding me back, I finally made the decision to back off of the 98"/woods5g build and do the build everyone raves about.
Some will ask why the forged pistons and I do have an answer. To obtain my desired compression. Cast Hi comp's are just alot higher compression than I wanted to risk especially with the .030 head gasket whose squish band is supposed to provide it's own additional benefits. Having my heads dissasembled and milled to get compression correct for flat tops would be more expensive than the difference between cast and forged plus, I got a great deal on the forged(read; poor/cheap).
As for the chain cam decision, simple economics, I am in those near new cams, new tensioners and new chains and new bearings less than $100 total. Maybe next winter I'll be able to change out to the gear cams and I'll know for sure by then if this is the cam I want to keep.
I will originally build it and use the stock TB and keep the ProPipe on through break in cuz I got a canned map for that, then when I take it to the tuner, I will have him install the Bored TB and the RB/LSR 2:1 before he tunes it.
The wrench is gonna let me be there for the whole thing and even help a little, maybe after seeing the process if there's a next time, I'll be able to do it myself(I am counting on that actually!) plus, when we start it up, I am sure I will feel just as proud and happy as if I had done it all myself.
Thanks to all here whose guidence has gotten me this far, wish me luck!
Anyone have any input on using or not using the 4*advance gear on the cams? Remember, thay are the old 37 grind so they have a little different timing than the newer version.
Here's the specs, I have the old grind so I am thinking that by using the 48 advance gear, I'll get near where the new stock 37 is, I know it would still be a little different and I really don't get the dynamics of the cam timing events, just need to know, would you use the 4*+ or not? I want my low end!
old intake spec 14/42
old exhaust spec 48/12
26* of overlap
intake duration is 236*
exhaust duration is 240*
intake installed centerline of 104*ATDC
exhaust installed centerline of 108* BTDC
new intake spec 18/38
new exhaust spec 46/14
32* of overlap
intake duration is 236*
exhaust duration is 240*
intake installed centerline of 100*ATDC
exhaust installed centerline of 106* BTDC
Here's my list(pretty cookie cutter, boring actually)
Big Boyz street ported heads
Barrells bored by Freeman Choppers(the wrench for the build)
SE Hi Comp Forged pistons
Andrews TW37b cams the old grind
New polished chain&new bearings and new tensioners
Andrews +4* cam gear(undecided on using this)
Baisley 002 spring
SE Perfect fit pushrods
Gerolamy Ported TB
Rb LSR 2:1 exhaust
Alloyboltz complete engine set, stainless polished bolts
PCIIIr
Cometic complete top end gasket set/ will add .030 head gasket
I think that's about it. I really wanted to go for alot more but with the MM EFI holding me back, I finally made the decision to back off of the 98"/woods5g build and do the build everyone raves about.
Some will ask why the forged pistons and I do have an answer. To obtain my desired compression. Cast Hi comp's are just alot higher compression than I wanted to risk especially with the .030 head gasket whose squish band is supposed to provide it's own additional benefits. Having my heads dissasembled and milled to get compression correct for flat tops would be more expensive than the difference between cast and forged plus, I got a great deal on the forged(read; poor/cheap).
As for the chain cam decision, simple economics, I am in those near new cams, new tensioners and new chains and new bearings less than $100 total. Maybe next winter I'll be able to change out to the gear cams and I'll know for sure by then if this is the cam I want to keep.
I will originally build it and use the stock TB and keep the ProPipe on through break in cuz I got a canned map for that, then when I take it to the tuner, I will have him install the Bored TB and the RB/LSR 2:1 before he tunes it.
The wrench is gonna let me be there for the whole thing and even help a little, maybe after seeing the process if there's a next time, I'll be able to do it myself(I am counting on that actually!) plus, when we start it up, I am sure I will feel just as proud and happy as if I had done it all myself.
Thanks to all here whose guidence has gotten me this far, wish me luck!
Anyone have any input on using or not using the 4*advance gear on the cams? Remember, thay are the old 37 grind so they have a little different timing than the newer version.
Here's the specs, I have the old grind so I am thinking that by using the 48 advance gear, I'll get near where the new stock 37 is, I know it would still be a little different and I really don't get the dynamics of the cam timing events, just need to know, would you use the 4*+ or not? I want my low end!
old intake spec 14/42
old exhaust spec 48/12
26* of overlap
intake duration is 236*
exhaust duration is 240*
intake installed centerline of 104*ATDC
exhaust installed centerline of 108* BTDC
new intake spec 18/38
new exhaust spec 46/14
32* of overlap
intake duration is 236*
exhaust duration is 240*
intake installed centerline of 100*ATDC
exhaust installed centerline of 106* BTDC
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Hey Tote, glad you looked in, I know you been playing with this whole thing. I assume these cams are the old grind since they were originally purchased two years ago. Is there a way to know for sure? is there a marking ? is there something to measure?. If I can be ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE they are the old grind, I'll probably use the gear, so how do I know for sure?Totenkopf said:I think I like the +4* change to the valve timing. It will certainly move things in the direction you desire.
Looks good though! You'll have fun with it!
Adlerx first things first. Change your avatar back! Ok now to the cams. I dont know but if there is a serial number or something maybe you could email or call Andrews direct and see if they could identify your grind? Just a thought.
Back by popular demand!
There she is! Thanks, I already thought about that, I'll find out before it all goes together, somehow. I was just hoping there was some easy way smoeone might know...roadglide05 said:Adlerx first things first. Change your avatar back! Ok now to the cams. I dont know but if there is a serial number or something maybe you could email or call Andrews direct and see if they could identify your grind? Just a thought.
I think that's about it. I really wanted to go for alot more but with the MM EFI holding me back,
I did my 95" build with the 37G cams and still have my stock MM fuel injection and you will be very surprised at the power increase that you will see, and that is with a canned map and I haven't had it dyno tuned yet!:Banadance
I did my 95" build with the 37G cams and still have my stock MM fuel injection and you will be very surprised at the power increase that you will see, and that is with a canned map and I haven't had it dyno tuned yet!:Banadance
THANKS MAN!adlerx said:There she is! Thanks, I already thought about that, I'll find out before it all goes together, somehow. I was just hoping there was some easy way smoeone might know...
Which map are you using?pa-glazier said:I think that's about it. I really wanted to go for alot more but with the MM EFI holding me back,
I did my 95" build with the 37G cams and still have my stock MM fuel injection and you will be very surprised at the power increase that you will see, and that is with a canned map and I haven't had it dyno tuned yet!:Banadance
Propipe replaced with LSR 2-1???
You mentioned the Propipe on the previous build and you will use LSR 2-1 <=> very expensive instead on the new build. Why?
You mentioned the Propipe on the previous build and you will use LSR 2-1 <=> very expensive instead on the new build. Why?
with any mm build i would recomend a increase in fuel pressure and you will want it when you put the BC t Body on
Vienna Hog;
Yeah, the propipe I have, I got used and it hd been through a crash so it has a couple of tiny dents on it whee you can see the guy's floorboards bent up into it. But more importantly, depending on the source you use, there are a couple of different model numbers for the dresser Propipe one is 95-99 and 99-present but if you look at another source, you might see 95-present. Well, I have to assume that teh one I have (history unavailable) is the 95-99 model because the fit isn't perfect. Where the front pipe comes down and bends to go back by the floorboard, it makes contact with end of the shaft of the rear master cylinder. It is significant contact in my opinion. Even though it barley makes contact and only when rocking hard at times at idle, I just don't like it. The V&H ProPipe is very populer and everyone raves about the fit and finish so I can only assume I have the wrong pipe on my bike. So, I was gonna buy a new pipe anyhow, the LSR is only about 100 more than the ProPipe so I just decided to go with it. Some reason you'd reccomend getting the new propipe over the lsr or other light you could shed on my fit problem?
Otto;
Thanks, I have the modified fuel pressure regulator to go with the BC/TB
Yeah, the propipe I have, I got used and it hd been through a crash so it has a couple of tiny dents on it whee you can see the guy's floorboards bent up into it. But more importantly, depending on the source you use, there are a couple of different model numbers for the dresser Propipe one is 95-99 and 99-present but if you look at another source, you might see 95-present. Well, I have to assume that teh one I have (history unavailable) is the 95-99 model because the fit isn't perfect. Where the front pipe comes down and bends to go back by the floorboard, it makes contact with end of the shaft of the rear master cylinder. It is significant contact in my opinion. Even though it barley makes contact and only when rocking hard at times at idle, I just don't like it. The V&H ProPipe is very populer and everyone raves about the fit and finish so I can only assume I have the wrong pipe on my bike. So, I was gonna buy a new pipe anyhow, the LSR is only about 100 more than the ProPipe so I just decided to go with it. Some reason you'd reccomend getting the new propipe over the lsr or other light you could shed on my fit problem?
Otto;
Thanks, I have the modified fuel pressure regulator to go with the BC/TB
I have no experience with the LSR 2-1 other than that I own their Black Hole 2-1 and I am not overly impressed with their performance in comparison to the ProPipe. I know the LSR 2-1 is a different animal. As to the ProPipe fit and finish I agree that you may have the wrong pipe. I was just wondering about a performance related reason behind your choice.adlerx said:Vienna Hog;
Yeah, the propipe I have, I got used and it hd been through a crash so it has a couple of tiny dents on it whee you can see the guy's floorboards bent up into it. But more importantly, depending on the source you use, there are a couple of different model numbers for the dresser Propipe one is 95-99 and 99-present but if you look at another source, you might see 95-present. Well, I have to assume that teh one I have (history unavailable) is the 95-99 model because the fit isn't perfect. Where the front pipe comes down and bends to go back by the floorboard, it makes contact with end of the shaft of the rear master cylinder. It is significant contact in my opinion. Even though it barley makes contact and only when rocking hard at times at idle, I just don't like it. The V&H ProPipe is very populer and everyone raves about the fit and finish so I can only assume I have the wrong pipe on my bike. So, I was gonna buy a new pipe anyhow, the LSR is only about 100 more than the ProPipe so I just decided to go with it. Some reason you'd reccomend getting the new propipe over the lsr or other light you could shed on my fit problem?
Otto;
Thanks, I have the modified fuel pressure regulator to go with the BC/TB
Have fun
I'm using map # 11 from the MM version of the S.E.R.T.. It is for 95" with SE 257 cams. Runs good but definitely on the rich side. The weather has turned bad around here so I haven't been in any hurry to do the dyno tune.adlerx said:Which map are you using?
I am very happy with the performance of the Propipe, done alot of reading and people with the lsr sure do like it.ViennaHog said:I have no experience with the LSR 2-1 other than that I own their Black Hole 2-1 and I am not overly impressed with their performance in comparison to the ProPipe. I know the LSR 2-1 is a different animal. As to the ProPipe fit and finish I agree that you may have the wrong pipe. I was just wondering about a performance related reason behind your choice.
Have fun
I am a sheep, a follower a pathetic person with no ideas or reasons of my own, just follow what others say:wacko: .....
sad but true, now you are making me re-think even this decision...
I thought you already knew for sure that it was the old grind.adlerx said:Hey Tote, glad you looked in, I know you been playing with this whole thing. I assume these cams are the old grind since they were originally purchased two years ago. Is there a way to know for sure? is there a marking ? is there something to measure?. If I can be ABSOLUTELY POSITIVE they are the old grind, I'll probably use the gear, so how do I know for sure?
When I emailed tech service at Andrews a while back, the reply said that they have never changed the grind on the 37!!!!! When I was out at Otto's shop about a month ago, we looked at a copy of a 2001 (as I recall) Andrews catalog and it lists the 37b with the 42* ABDC intake closing. I'm not sure how you would tell which grind it is short of installing it with the stock gear and then putting a degree wheel on the crank and taking measurements of valve openings and closings at 0.053" lift.
If it is the 36* ABDC intake closing grind, I would not use the 4* advance gear. If it is the old grind, I like the changes to the valve timing with the 4* advance.
Thanks Tote, I really don't know for sure but had assumed the date of the change was within the last year and this one is older than a year. After talking to Andrews on the phone today, I have decided not to use the 4* advance gear. According to Andrews, only the very early 37's were the old grind. Also, I don't understand enough about all this to start messing with what is an already a proven combo so I'm just going with what I got and see how it works out, pretty sure I'll be a happy camper!
Thanks alot for your input, I really appreciate it!
adx
Thanks alot for your input, I really appreciate it!
adx
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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