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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First attempt at changing fluids. All went well by following the Manual until I went to tork wrench the transmission dip stick. Long story short - I cracked the hex portion in half. Talk about being pissed. Question. What is the best way to get the cracked dip stick out? So I can replace with a new one.
Thanks for your help.
 
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Wow! Now there's a new one.

The first thing I would try is to use the allen wrench to try and back it out. Considering the design of the thing, this may work, since it should tend to hold together.

If your luck is like mine though, you will have to remove the clutch release cover. This will require removal of some exhaust components, then the cover. Once it is off, you should be able to carefully turn out the dipstick from the inside out.

If you have to do this, this would be a great timme to install the reduced effort clutch kit.

Also, since it sounds like you just replaced the fluids, get a nice clean tupperware container to store your fluid in, since it's easier to drain the fluid from the transmission to remove the release cover (although you can do the job with the bike on the side stand, and lose very little). When I've installed the kits, I've always replaced the clutch release cover gasket, since it is cheap, and tends to hang up on the oil slinger, and get damaged upon removal. I've re-used the primary gasket, since it is $30.00, and tends to stay either on the motor or on the cover, in one nice piece when the cover is removed.

Finally, I know the dipstick has a torque value in the manual, but all it needs is just enough to snug it down.

Harris
 

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Forgetter of Things
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Harris said:
The first thing I would try is to use the allen wrench to try and back it out. Considering the design of the thing, this may work, since it should tend to hold together.
I agree...or do you have the accessory one?
 

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Or....take a lite hammer/chisel and see if you can get the stick to rotate CCW by working the exposed edge of the dip stick. -2$en#e-
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the great ideas. Probably start by attempting to appoxy a hex wrench to the half broken hex hole. Then trying to back it out. If that does not work I will probably try to get it moving with a chisel and hammer with a light tap. Last resort would be taking off the cover and backing it out from the inside out. Does anyone know the dept of the threaded part of the trans dipstick for a 2004 dyna. A little scared to drill in fear of putting shavings into the trans.

I will let you know how it works out. Might be a few days though. Atleast it happened when the temperatures outside are below freezing.
Thanks again guys.
 

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Fourcats said:
Or....take a lite hammer/chisel and see if you can get the stick to rotate CCW by working the exposed edge of the dip stick. -2$en#e-

That is a great idea ... i have used that same thing to get fairing screws out of aircraft at annual time ..... it should work well in this case i think ,,,,, One thing i think the poster should have said is just how did he screw up .... if he used a torque wrench and was tightening instead of going the other way ,, he might wanna shoot the thing down with a little break free prior to doing your chisel thing ..... the last thing i think he wants to do is to start grinding where he could get metal shaveings in the trans ,,, but if that happend dump in a couple qts of trans fluid with the drain out and flush it out ,,, then ride it a few miles and flush it out again and then refill...... rat
 

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Total Nutcase
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If there is room to work, take a dremel and use the cutting wheel to cut a slot. Then use a screwdriver to remove the part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
take a lite hammer/chisel and see if you can get the stick to rotate CCW by working the exposed edge of the dip stick.
Worked like a charm.
Thanks for all your help
 

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BlueSkiesandTailwinds
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:cheers:

Later
 

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roaddogg said:
take a lite hammer/chisel and see if you can get the stick to rotate CCW by working the exposed edge of the dip stick.
Worked like a charm.
Thanks for all your help

cool ... glad you got it out .....ok ,, now that the problem is fixed> LOL... you owe us and explanation how how you screwed it up ..... I have to laught because i personally have set a torque wrench wrong and found myself really reefing on my clicker type torque wrench..on that same dipstick.....seems i had set it light and there was no click ,,,, Common sence finally happened, and i stopped reefin on that big level arm wrench .....so inquirieng minds gotta know ,,, how did you break it ......BTW ,, the fix you were given with the chisel was a great tip .......thats the beauty of this board. Lots of great info on V twins .......rat
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ratt,
All my fault. Having never used a torque wrench and not familar with the small click when torqued, I cranked one to many times. Lesson learned, and problem solved thanks to the great people of this board.

Thanks Fourcats
 

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GottaRideS'more
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IMHO none of the fluid plugs should/need be torqued - I've found that the torque values actually damage the O-rings.

The thing that keeps the fluids in is the O-ring - and the plug only has to be tightened enough to keep it from loosening-up and falling out.

I've found that finger-tight plus a quarter turn or so is suffucient. You want to keep the distortion on the O-ring to a minimum, and minimum stress on the threads so you don't end up with little aluminum coils on the plug down the line when you remove it. Again, JMHO.
 
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