I'd just ride it like normal. That is how I did the break in on my Deuce and then the Ultra. Too many debates on this.
Good luck with the new bike
Dino
Good luck with the new bike
Dino
break in period for fltri
Hello, any one have good or bad experience breaking in a new 1450 cc. I know there are many articles on the subject and I think I get the part on break in oil type, heat cycleing , wearing in tolerances, rings, seating in bearings removeing oil and metal particles. What I dont get is easy break in or hard break in, so I realy need experienced advice, what has or has not worked for you, or the right article web site. You can call me Ben. Thanks.
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Ben, I broke mine in just the like the owners manual stated it should be done.angleflights said:Hello, any one have good or bad experience breaking in a new 1450 cc. I know there are many articles on the subject and I think I get the part on break in oil type, heat cycleing , wearing in tolerances, rings, seating in bearings removeing oil and metal particles. What I dont get is easy break in or hard break in, so I realy need experienced advice, what has or has not worked for you, or the right article web site. You can call me Ben. Thanks.
Doing so removes any discussion from the local shop regarding engine repairs, should they be required, under warranty.
The most important part is to NOT run the engine in a high gear at low RPM's. That just creates too much stress.
Otherwise, enjoy your new bike! That first 500 will go by very quickly!
my breaking in plan
1) 25 mi.country roads varied rpms below 3000, speeds and gears, down shifting change out oil and filter cool off period 2 times to 50)50-100 . up to 3000 rpms and Hd speed recomendations. savana hills, various speeds gears rpms and down shifting.change out oil and [email protected] mi., cool off period over night. 3)100-500 mi. below 3000 rpm over several days of 50 - 100 ea.varied speeds gears down shifting and rpms per HD recomendations, several cooling off periods over night, change out oil and filter @ 500 mi.4) 500 to 1,000 mi. to 3,500 rpm, twisty roads on a gradual 17 mile to a 2500 ft. summit,and back down, on several occasions with cooling off periods , then at last 1000 mi service. Replace oil and filter, primary and trans dino oils. 5) 1,000 - 5,000 mi. Normal driving to 3,500 rpms, change out oil and filter,to red line synthetic 20-60 as well as trans and primary,shock proof heavy and mtl @5000 service. 6) 5,000 to 7,500, all around driving to 4,500 rpm. 7) 7,500 - 10,000 mi all around driving to wide open throtle. 10,000 mi. service.Thru the entire process I will be looking to make me asweet spot in the 70 - 90 mph range, just need to maintain most of durations in there. Oil changes 5 times to remove metals, until synthetics. Worked great on my 05 flhrci stock lots of power up to 115mph. RKC now at 9000 mi. no oil consumption or leaks. Oil and filters are cheap ins. and gets the metals out.Heat cycleing and seating rings, bearings engine parts are slowly achieved as are maximum tolerances. I will be warming up engine until heads are warm to the touch around 3 minutes.Always. I didit my way.:xhere: Oh Yeah I revised my way alittle for the RG.
1) 25 mi.country roads varied rpms below 3000, speeds and gears, down shifting change out oil and filter cool off period 2 times to 50)50-100 . up to 3000 rpms and Hd speed recomendations. savana hills, various speeds gears rpms and down shifting.change out oil and [email protected] mi., cool off period over night. 3)100-500 mi. below 3000 rpm over several days of 50 - 100 ea.varied speeds gears down shifting and rpms per HD recomendations, several cooling off periods over night, change out oil and filter @ 500 mi.4) 500 to 1,000 mi. to 3,500 rpm, twisty roads on a gradual 17 mile to a 2500 ft. summit,and back down, on several occasions with cooling off periods , then at last 1000 mi service. Replace oil and filter, primary and trans dino oils. 5) 1,000 - 5,000 mi. Normal driving to 3,500 rpms, change out oil and filter,to red line synthetic 20-60 as well as trans and primary,shock proof heavy and mtl @5000 service. 6) 5,000 to 7,500, all around driving to 4,500 rpm. 7) 7,500 - 10,000 mi all around driving to wide open throtle. 10,000 mi. service.Thru the entire process I will be looking to make me asweet spot in the 70 - 90 mph range, just need to maintain most of durations in there. Oil changes 5 times to remove metals, until synthetics. Worked great on my 05 flhrci stock lots of power up to 115mph. RKC now at 9000 mi. no oil consumption or leaks. Oil and filters are cheap ins. and gets the metals out.Heat cycleing and seating rings, bearings engine parts are slowly achieved as are maximum tolerances. I will be warming up engine until heads are warm to the touch around 3 minutes.Always. I didit my way.:xhere: Oh Yeah I revised my way alittle for the RG.
I just broke in my JIMS 120 in motor in an 02 RK.
Under 2500 rpms for the first 50 miles, change oil and filter (HD 20w50).
Under 3000 rpms for the first 500 miles, change the oil and filter as above.
Hit it. :thumbsup: Change oil and filter at 1000 miles (HD 20w50).
Ride another 150 miles and say fukk it, and change over to Red Line 20w60 HD.
I've been using MTL and Shockproof Heavy since 10K. ~67K now.
Runs like a BEAST. :yes:
Under 2500 rpms for the first 50 miles, change oil and filter (HD 20w50).
Under 3000 rpms for the first 500 miles, change the oil and filter as above.
Hit it. :thumbsup: Change oil and filter at 1000 miles (HD 20w50).
Ride another 150 miles and say fukk it, and change over to Red Line 20w60 HD.
I've been using MTL and Shockproof Heavy since 10K. ~67K now.
Runs like a BEAST. :yes:
"Sleding it is all about being original and styleing it your way, learn about other original thinkers and open your horizons". Me.angleflights said:wyodude real nice break in method , after reading it I checked out my plan and found a couple of erors in my way.:thanks: for replying you got me thinking about my oil chang intervals and rpms , found mine incorrect. Whey that could have been a close one. Couple of HD techs advise me in my regaurd to stock RKC not to go synthetic until over 2500 mi. and allow the cutting oil HD 20-50 to do its job. They were also comming across trans and primary problems and many others reverted to original oils, but I cant imagine why. Maybe they were just blaming some faulty trans and primary problems on the red line to cop out. Im guessing ther are a couple of differnt ways to break them in, sure a lot of methods on it. When I stoped seeing metal in the crankcase between 5000-7,500 mi. was when I went red line in all holes on [email protected] I think my revised method for my o6 RG. is better.,saves some dough too. You got got one big sled there bro, swweeett.
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